Non-Hydrostatic Wave modeling in Partly Sheltered Harbor Basins

The determination of wave conditions in partly sheltered areas is a challenging task for coastal engineers. Knowledge about these conditions is important for the design of coastal structures, the planning and operation of ports. Numerical models play an important role in the assessment of these conditions. Various types of models have been...

Modelling Vertical Variation of Turbulent Flow Across a Surf Zone Using SWASH

This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to propagation of irregular waves in a barred surf zone, and the model results are discussed by comparing against an extensive laboratory data set. This study focus not only on wave transformation in the surf zone, but also on the numerical prediction of...

Towards a Practical Application of Numerical Models to Predict Wave-Structure Interaction: An Initial Validation

A more detailed understanding of porous flow inside a rubble-mound structure may have potential benefits in breakwater design. Numerical models are expected to be a useful additional research tool in this field, provided that their calculation results can be validated against measurements. This paper presents the results of a systematic effort...

Two-Dimensional Wave Overtopping Calculation over a Dike in Shallow Foreshore by SWASH

In this paper, a numerical wave-flow model SWASH, based on non-linear shallow water equation with non- hydrostatic pressure, is applied to the estimation of wave overtopping over a dike in shallow foreshores. First sensitivity analysis is conducted to see the influence of wave generation, grid size, time window and bottom friction by one...

Alternative Source Terms for SWAN in the Coastal Region

This paper presents the application of new source terms in SWAN for the dominant water wave physics in the coastal zone: depth-induced breaking and triad wave-wave interactions. We present results demonstrating increased modelling skill in the prediction of bulk wave parameters e.g. significant wave height and of the spectral shape compared to...

Swan and its recent developments (poster)

The SWAN model is a third-generation spectral wave prediction model developed by Delft University of Technology. Since its initial release in 1998 this model has become a widely used and reliable tool for offshore and near shore wave predictions. Its main field of application is the coastal zone where, by virtue of its implicit numerical scheme,...

A numerical study on the effect of beach nourishment on wave overtopping in shallow foreshores

In this paper, the effect of beach nourishment on wave overtopping in shallow foreshores is investigated with the nonhydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH. Firstly, the applicability of SWASH to model wave overtopping is tested by comparing results with a physical model setup with different storm wall heights on top of an impermeable sea dike. The...

Non-hydrostatic modelling of infragravity waves using swash

This paper presents numerical modelling of the nearshore transformation of infragravity waves induced by bichromatic wave groups over a horizontal and a sloping bottom. The non-hydrostatic model SWASH is assessed by comparing model predictions with analytical solutions over a horizontal bottom and with detailed laboratory observations for a...

Modelling wave transformation across a fringing reef using swash

This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to wave propagation over a fringing reef, and the results are discussed and compared with observations obtained from a laboratory experiment subjected to various incident wave conditions. This study focus not only on wave breaking, bottom friction, and...

Circulation patterns and shoreline response induced by submerged breakwaters

Submerged shore-parallel breakwaters for coastal defence (henceforth SBWs) are a good compromise between the need to mitigate the effects of waves on the coast and the ambition to ensure the preservation of the landscape and water quality. However, if not properly designed, such structures can force circulation patterns that enhance shoreline...

Modelling wave transformation across a fringing reef using SWASH

This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to wave propagation over a fringing reef, and the results are discussed and compared with observations obtained from a laboratory experiment subjected to various incident wave conditions. This study focus not only on wave breaking, bottom friction, and...

Non-hydrostatic modelling of infragravity waves using SWASH

This paper presents numerical modelling of the nearshore transformation of infragravity waves induced by bichromatic wave groups over a horizontal and a sloping bottom. The non-hydrostatic model SWASH is assessed by comparing model predictions with analytical solutions over a horizontal bottom and with detailed laboratory observations for a...

Modelling the finite amplitude dynamics of tidal sand waves with SWASH (poster)

Generating electricity at a breakwater in a moderate wave climate

A new concept for wave energy conversion is examined as a proof of concept for generating electricity in a moderate wave climate while being integrated in a caisson breakwater. Physical model testing is performed to analyse the preliminary efficiency of the device and to identify areas of improvement. The resulting device is calculated for two...

Simulating nearshore wave transformation with non-hydrostatic wave-flow modelling