Reconstruction of Directional Spectra of Infragravity Waves

Understanding directional spectra of infragravity (IG) waves composed of free and bound components is required due to their impacts on various coastal processes (e.g., coastal inundation and morphological change). However, conventional reconstruction methods of directional spectra relying on linear wave theory are not applicable to IG waves...

Relationship between three-dimensional radiation stress and Vortex-Force representations

In numerical ocean models, the effect of waves on currents is usually expressed by either vortex-force or radiation stress representations. In this paper, the differences and similarities between those two representations are investigated in detail in conditions of both conservative and nonconservative waves. In addition, comparisons between...

Modeling the effect of wave-vegetation interaction on wave setup

Aquatic vegetation in the coastal zone attenuates wave energy and reduces the risk of coastal hazards, e.g., flooding. Besides the attenuation of sea-swell waves, vegetation may also affect infragravity-band (IG) waves and wave setup. To date, knowledge on the effect of vegetation on IG waves and wave setup is lacking, while they are potentially...

Modeling of wave attenuation by vegetation with XBeach

Over the past decades the effect of vegetation (e.g. kelp, mangroves, sea grass) on nearshore coastal processes has received more and more attention. In recent years several numerical wave models have been extended to include this effect. In the current study, the numerical storm impact model XBeach was extended with formulations found in...

Modeling cross-shore sandbar behavior on the timescale of weeks

We compare predictions of a coupled, wave-averaged, cross-shore waves-currents-bathymetric evolution model to observations of onshore and offshore nearshore sandbar migration. The observations span a 10- and 44-day period with onshore/offshore bar migration at Duck, North Carolina, and at Hasaki, Kashima Coast, Japan, respectively, a 3.5-month...

Quantification of 2D subtidal bathymetry from video

Onderzoek naar lange golven bij Petten (deel A en B)

Onderwateroeversuppletie Delfland: UNIBEST-TC berekeningen

Diagnostic studies NOURTEC: Comparison between Thorsminde and Terschelling shoreface nourishments

Large-scale flume tests in the Grosse Wellenkanal: Analysis of wave parameters and cross-shore transport and comparison with UNIBEST-TC

In this abstract we discuss the analysis of wave and profile measurements in the Grosse Wellenkanal, reported in Dette & Uliczka (Coastal Sediments, 1988) of which the raw data were made available by J. Oelerich in January 1992. This analysis provides us with accurate data not only on the profile development, but also on the variation in time...