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Measurements of morphodynamics of a sheltered beach along the Dutch Wadden Sea

van der Lugt, M.A. (author), Bosma, Jorn W. (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), Price, Timothy D. (author), van Maarseveen, Marcel C. G. (author), van der Gaag, P. (author), Ruessink, Gerben (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (author)

A field campaign was carried out at a sheltered sandy beach with the aim of gaining new insights into the driving processes behind sheltered beach morphodynamics. Detailed measurements of the local hydrodynamics, bed-level changes and sediment composition were collected at a man-made beach on the leeside of the barrier island Texel, bordering...

journal article 2024

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The impact of modulational instability on coastal wave forecasting using quadratic models

Akrish, G. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Smit, P.B. (author)

Coastal wave forecasting over large spatial scales is essential for many applications (e.g., coastal safety assessments, coastal management and developments, etc.). This demand explains the necessity for accurate yet effective models. A well-known efficient modelling approach is the quadratic approach (often referred to as frequency-domain...

journal article 2024

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Optimising the wave attenuation of bamboo fences using the numerical wave model SWASH

Alferink, M. (author), Gijón Mancheño, A. (author), Suzuki, Tomohiro (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)

The coastline of Demak, Indonesia, has been eroding during the<br/>last 15 years. Coastal retreat in Demak is caused by a combination<br/>of mangrove deforestation and local subsidence due to groundwater<br/>extraction in the nearby city of Semarang. To restore the lost mangrove<br/>forest, permeable dams, consisting of bamboo poles with a<br/...

journal article 2023

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Cross-shore transformation of bound and free infragravity waves off the Dutch coast

Rutten, J. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Zhang, Xinyi (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), van Wiechen, P.P.J. (author), de Vries, S. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Mol, Jan Willem (author), Wilmink, Rinse (author)

Infragravity (IG) waves are key drivers for coastal erosion and thus need to be properly included in process-based modelling of coastal hazards. Uncertainties remain regarding the offshore boundary conditions for these long waves. Typically, only bound IG waves are included at the boundary, which means that the possible contribution of free IG...

conference paper 2023

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Measurements and Modeling of Pore-Pressure Gradients in the Swash Zone Under Large-Scale Laboratory Bichromatic Waves

Kranenborg, J. W.M. (author), Pauli, T. (author), Jacobsen, N. G. (author), van der Werf, J. J. (author), Dionisio Antonio, S. (author), Campmans, G. H.P. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Hulscher, S. J.M.H. (author)

The present work presents physical laboratory measurements of surface elevation and pore water pressures in a fine sand bed under bichromatic waves in a large-scale laboratory experiment. This was done at three cross-shore locations in the swash zone, with pressures being measured at different depths in the bed. The measurements show that the...

journal article 2023

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Including the effect of depth-uniform ambient currents on waves in a non-hydrostatic wave-flow model

Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), van Rooijen, Arnold (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), de Wit, F.P. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)

Currents can affect the evolution of waves in nearshore regions through altering their wavenumber and amplitude. Including the effect of ambient currents (e.g., tidal and wind-driven) on waves in phase-resolving wave models is not straightforward as it requires appropriate boundary conditions in combination with a large domain size and long...

journal article 2023

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Quantifying spit growth and its hydrodynamic drivers in wind-dominated lake environments

van Kouwen, Niels C. (author), Ton, A.M. (author), Vos, S.E. (author), Vijverberg, Thomas (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (author)

Many sand spits are morphodynamically complex landforms, that are either analysed with complex and expensive computational models or at a conceptual level. Therefore, most case studies on spits in different environments are descriptive. A novel method based on the use of polar coordinates was devised to quantitatively analyse spit...

journal article 2023

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A mild-slope formulation based on Weyl rule of association with application to coastal wave modelling

Akrish, G. (author), Smit, Pieter (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)

Weyl rule of association, proposed by Hermann Weyl for quantum mechanics applications (Weyl, 1931), can be used to associate between the dispersion relation of water waves and a non-local pseudo-differential operator. The central result of this study is that this operator correctly approximates the Dirichlet-to-Neumann operator derived for...

journal article 2023

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Modeling Multi-Fraction Coastal Aeolian Sediment Transport With Horizontal and Vertical Grain-Size Variability

van IJzendoorn, Christa (author), Hallin, E.C. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), de Vries, S. (author)

Grain size affects the rates of aeolian sediment transport on beaches. Sediment in coastal environments typically consists of multiple grain-size fractions and exhibits spatiotemporal variations. Still, conceptual and numerical aeolian transport models are simplified and often only include a single fraction that is constant over the model...

journal article 2023

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Dune erosion during storm surges: A review of the observations, physics and modelling of the collision regime

van Wiechen, P.P.J. (author), de Vries, S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (author)

Dune erosion during storm surges can lead to excessive damage to the dune system with devastating floods as a potential consequence. A risk assessment of areas protected by dunes can be facilitated by an understanding and description of the physical processes that take place. Field measurements, knowledge of underlying processes and numerical...

review 2023

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Drivers of cross-shore chenier dynamics off a drowning coastal plain

Tas, S.A.J. (author), van Maren, D.S. (author), Helmi, Muhammad (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)

A chenier is a beach ridge, consisting of sand and/or shells, overlying a muddy substrate. In this paper, we explore the cross-shore dynamics of cheniers in their ‘active’ phase, i.e. the phase between their formation and their landing on the shore and can no longer be reached by daily wave and tidal influences. While cheniers described in...

journal article 2022

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SWAN SurfBeat-1D

Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)

The Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model has been extended with an infragravity module to predict the Wave-Group-Forced (WGF) infragravity response to a frequency-directional sea-swell spectrum at a mildly sloping alongshore uniform beach. To that end the SWAN model has been extended with an WGF-infragravity source term denoted S<sub>sb<...

journal article 2022

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Depth-Resolved Modelling of Intra-Swash Morphodynamics Induced by Solitary Waves

Kranenborg, Joost W.M. (author), Campmans, Geert H.P. (author), Jacobsen, Niels G. (author), van der Werf, Jebbe J. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Hulscher, Suzanne J.M.H. (author)

We present a fully coupled 2DV morphodynamic model, implemented in OpenFOAM^® that is capable of simulating swash-zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The hydrodynamics are described by the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations with a (Formula presented.) turbulence model and the Volume of Fluid (VoF) approach for...

journal article 2022

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Novel sediment sampling method provides new insights into vertical grain size variability due to marine and aeolian beach processes

van IJzendoorn, Christa (author), Hallin, E.C. (author), Cohn, Nicholas (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), de Vries, S. (author)

In sandy beach systems, the aeolian sediment transport can be governed by the vertical structure of the sediment layers at the bed surface. Here, data collected with a newly developed sand scraper is presented to determine high-resolution vertical grain size variability and how it is affected by marine and aeolian processes. Sediment samples...

journal article 2022

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Evaluation of Implicit and Explicit Wave Dissipation Models for Submerged and Emergent Aquatic Vegetation

Ascencio, Jaime A. (author), Jacobsen, Niels G. (author), McFall, Brian C. (author), Groeneweg, Jacco (author), Vuik, V. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)

To address the important research question of whether implicit (bottom friction) or explicit (stem drag) dissipation models are most appropriate for the prediction of wave attenuation due to aquatic vegetation, the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) spectral wave model has been extended with an explicit frequency-dependent dissipation model...

journal article 2022

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Reconstruction of Directional Spectra of Infragravity Waves

Matsuba, Yoshinao (author), Roelvink, D. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Shimozono, Takenori (author)

Understanding directional spectra of infragravity (IG) waves composed of free and bound components is required due to their impacts on various coastal processes (e.g., coastal inundation and morphological change). However, conventional reconstruction methods of directional spectra relying on linear wave theory are not applicable to IG waves...

journal article 2022

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Chenier Formation Through Wave Winnowing and Tides

Tas, S.A.J. (author), van Maren, D.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)

Cheniers are ridges consisting of coarse-grained sediments, resting on top of the fine sediment that forms the otherwise muddy coast. In this paper, we use Delft3D to explore how cheniers are formed through wave winnowing. We identify three phases of chenier development: (a) a winnowing phase, during which mud is washed out of the seabed...

journal article 2022

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North sea infragravity wave observations

Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Naporowski, Remy (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), Akrish, G. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author)

Coastal safety assessments with wave-resolving storm impact models require a proper offshore description for the incoming infragravity (IG) waves. This boundary condition is generally obtained by assuming a local equilibrium between the directionally-spread incident sea-swell wave forcing and the bound IG waves. The contribution of the free...

journal article 2021

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High-resolution, large-scale laboratory measurements of a sandy beach and dynamic cobble berm revetment

Blenkinsopp, Chris E. (author), Bayle, Paul M. (author), Conley, Daniel C. (author), Masselink, Gerd (author), Gulson, Emily (author), Kelly, Isabel (author), Rijper, Huub (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author)

High quality laboratory measurements of nearshore waves and morphology change at, or near prototype-scale are essential to support new understanding of coastal processes and enable the development and validation of predictive models. The DynaRev experiment was completed at the GWK large wave flume over 8 weeks during 2017 to investigate the...

journal article 2021

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Global mapping of seaport operability risk indicators using open-source metocean data

Wiegel, M.F. (author), de Boer, W.P. (author), van Koningsveld, M. (author), van der Hout, A.J. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)

Seaport operability is key to the economic viability of ports. Metocean conditions (e.g., wind, short waves, and infragravity waves) affect this operability when certain thresholds are exceeded. This paper describes a method for the global mapping of seaport operability risk indicators using open-source metocean data. This global-scale...

journal article 2021