Numerical modelling of wave agitation in ports and access channels: a comparison study between SWASH and MIKE 21bw.

The determination of wave penetration in ports is of great importance for the design of coastal structures and for the efficiency of port operations. Nowadays, coastal engineers can make use of numerical models for the assessment of wave climates in ports. Various numerical models exist, including the phase resolving models SWASH (TU Delft) and...

High-Resolution Atmospheric Modelling and the Effects on the Prediction of Wave Characteristics

Since their development in the 1970s, mesoscale atmospheric models have been used for a variety of meteorological applications. Over the years, the models have evolved and nowadays, state-of-the-art atmospheric models are capable of operating on spatial resolutions in the order of kilometres. In the hydraulic engineering community, atmospheric...

Numerical modeling of wave-current interaction with the use of a two-way coupled system

The Dutch Flood Defense Act prescribes the assessment of the safety level of Dutch primary sea and flood defenses every six years. To asses if the required level of security of the sea and flood defenses is guaranteed, first the Hydraulic Boundary Conditions (HBC) which the sea and flood defenses are exposed to, have to be determined. At the...

Greenfield deep-sea port design: An investigation of chal lenges and opportunities

This MSc thesis report discusses a greenfield deep-sea port development in a developing country along a shallow oceanic coast. A port layout is developed based on a fictional cargo forecast. In the interest of port adaptivity, this layout is kept flexible as possible. The design is subsequently checked with regard to wave penetration and...

Effects of Seasonality on the Estimation of Environmental Extremes: A Study of Non-Homogeneous Methods for Estimating Environmental Extremes

Extreme value theory is commonly applied in ocean engineering to estimate extreme environmental conditions (e.g. wave height and wind speed). Extreme value models generally assume data are identically distributed and homogeneous in time. Because there are often different dominant generating mechanisms in different seasons, the sample...

The influence of the wave height distribution on the stability of single layer concrete armour units

The dimensions of single layer concrete armour units (interlocking armour units) are calculated with a similar stability relation as the stability relation for quarry stone. In these design formulas an 'average/significant' wave load is used (Hs). Since quarry stone gains its stability only from gravity, this type of armour unit is constructed...

Impact of access channel geometry on wave penetration in harbours

Access channels (entrance channels) to ports are a relevant part of port facilities, and they have a strong influence on the port operations as well. However, little information is available about their analysis and design regarding the wave interaction with access channels. This study is focused on the interaction of waves with entrance...

Vluchthaven Wijdenes: Verzandingsprobleem in de vluchthaven

In opdracht van het Recreatieschap Westfriesland werd een onderzoek gestart naar het verzandingsprobleem in de vluchthaven Wijdenes. De vluchthaven kampte jarenlang met verzandingsproblemen en er zijn diverse onderzoeken en aanpassingen uitgevoerd, maar het probleem is nog steeds niet verholpen. Door de verscherpte wetgeving in 2008, zijn de...

Numerical harbour simulations with the model TRIWAQ - NH: With an emphasize on the present reflective properties

The focus is on the numerical flow model TRIWAQ. It is developed as a hydrostatic free-surface flow model, which is currently being used by the KNMI and Rijkswaterstaat for predictions of water levels in the North Sea and Dutch estuaries. TRIWAQ has successfully been extended to the realm of nonhydrostatic modeling, TRIWAQ-NH, this allows the...

Dune erosion along curved coastlines

The most densely populated and economical most valuable areas in The Netherlands lie below mean sea level. These areas are protected against the sea by a joint coastal dune system. The vital importance of this dune system is reflected in the extensive collection of Dutch legal regulations that ensure the safety level of the dunes. The assessment...

Formulation and Quantification of the Distributed Collinear Triad Approximation

As waves enter the surf-zone, the wave spectra undergo drastic transformations because of depth-induced breaking and triad interactions. Any arbitrary spectrum will converge towards a smooth, universal shape in which initially higher harmonic peaks emerge that disappear as wave propagate further into the surf-zone. The current formulation of...

Wave Physics in a Tidal Inlet - Part I: On the time scales of wave processes. Part II: Depth-induced breaking: a comparison on the performance of three models

Part I: On the time scales of wave processes. To systematically improve the SWAN model a study on the wave physics in a tidal inlet was carried out. The third-generation SWAN model was used to compute the wave processes in a tidal inlet for storm conditions. The computed wave processes are propagation (shoaling, refraction and frequency shifting...