Formulation and Quantification of the Distributed Collinear Triad Approximation

As waves enter the surf-zone, the wave spectra undergo drastic transformations because of depth-induced breaking and triad interactions. Any arbitrary spectrum will converge towards a smooth, universal shape in which initially higher harmonic peaks emerge that disappear as wave propagate further into the surf-zone. The current formulation of...

Wave Physics in a Tidal Inlet - Part I: On the time scales of wave processes. Part II: Depth-induced breaking: a comparison on the performance of three models

Part I: On the time scales of wave processes. To systematically improve the SWAN model a study on the wave physics in a tidal inlet was carried out. The third-generation SWAN model was used to compute the wave processes in a tidal inlet for storm conditions. The computed wave processes are propagation (shoaling, refraction and frequency shifting...

Estimating freak wave occurrence probability in the Agulhas Current

The northern sea defence of Maasvlakte 2