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Akrish, G. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Smit, P.B. (author)Coastal wave forecasting over large spatial scales is essential for many applications (e.g., coastal safety assessments, coastal management and developments, etc.). This demand explains the necessity for accurate yet effective models. A well-known efficient modelling approach is the quadratic approach (often referred to as frequency-domain...journal article 2024
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Akrish, G. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Smit, P.B. (author)Spectral information of coastal waves and the associated statistical parameters (e.g., the significant wave height and mean wave period) over large spatial scales is essential for many applications (e.g., coastal safety assessments, coastal management and developments, etc.). This demand explains the necessity for accurate yet effective...journal article 2024
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Reyns, J.A.H. (author), McCall, Robert (author), Ranasinghe, Roshanka (author), van Dongeren, Ap (author), Roelvink, D. (author)An unstructured hydrodynamic model is presented that is able to simulate 2D nearshore hydrodynamics on the wave group scale. A non-stationary wave driver with directional spreading, with physics similar to XBeach (Roelvink et al., 2009) is linked to an improved and extended version of the existing unstructured flow solver Delft3D–FM (Kernkamp...journal article 2023
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Nguyên, Hà (author)A sea-dike system is of importance for the protection of the hinterland. However, the effect of very gentle and shallow sloping foreshores (in the order up to 1 in 1000) on wave overtopping processes has not yet been quantified enough and, thus, so far is not well understood. This dissertation seeks an answer to the question of whether the...doctoral thesis 2022
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)The Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model has been extended with an infragravity module to predict the Wave-Group-Forced (WGF) infragravity response to a frequency-directional sea-swell spectrum at a mildly sloping alongshore uniform beach. To that end the SWAN model has been extended with an WGF-infragravity source term denoted S<sub>sb<...journal article 2022
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Buckley, Mark L. (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), Pomeroy, Andrew (author), Storlazzi, Curt D. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), da Silva, Renan F. (author), Contardo, Stephanie (author), Green, Rebecca H. (author)Wave breaking on the steep fore-reef slopes of shallow fringing reefs can be effective at dissipating incident sea-swell waves prior to reaching reef shorelines. However, wave setup and free infragravity waves generated during the sea-swell breaking process are often the largest contributors to wave-driven water levels (wave runup) at the...journal article 2022
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Matsuba, Yoshinao (author), Roelvink, D. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Shimozono, Takenori (author)Understanding directional spectra of infragravity (IG) waves composed of free and bound components is required due to their impacts on various coastal processes (e.g., coastal inundation and morphological change). However, conventional reconstruction methods of directional spectra relying on linear wave theory are not applicable to IG waves...journal article 2022
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Lashley, Christopher H. (author)Coastal communities across the globe are often protected by structures, such as seawalls, levees or dikes, which allow only a safe volume of water to pass over or “overtop” them due to wave action during storms. The area seaward of these structures is often characterised by shallow, gently sloping beds referred to as foreshores.<br/>As storm...doctoral thesis 2021
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Naporowski, Remy (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), Akrish, G. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author)Coastal safety assessments with wave-resolving storm impact models require a proper offshore description for the incoming infragravity (IG) waves. This boundary condition is generally obtained by assuming a local equilibrium between the directionally-spread incident sea-swell wave forcing and the bound IG waves. The contribution of the free...journal article 2021
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Lashley, Christopher H. (author), Van Der Meer, Jentsje (author), Bricker, J.D. (author), Altomare, Corrado (author), Suzuki, T. (author), Hirayama, Katsuya (author)The state-of-The-Art formulas for mean wave overtopping (q) assessment typically require wave conditions at the toe of the structure as input. However, for structures built either on land or in very shallow water, obtaining accurate estimates of wave height and period at the structure toe often proves difficult and requires the use of either...journal article 2021
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Wiegel, M.F. (author), de Boer, W.P. (author), van Koningsveld, M. (author), van der Hout, A.J. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Seaport operability is key to the economic viability of ports. Metocean conditions (e.g., wind, short waves, and infragravity waves) affect this operability when certain thresholds are exceeded. This paper describes a method for the global mapping of seaport operability risk indicators using open-source metocean data. This global-scale...journal article 2021
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de Beer, A. F. (author), McCall, R. T. (author), Long, J. W. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)The prediction of wave runup, as well as its components, time-averaged setup and the time-varying swash, is a key element of coastal storm hazard assessments, as wave runup controls the transitions between morphodynamic response types such as dune erosion and overwash, and the potential for flooding by wave overtopping. While theoretically...journal article 2021
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Relative Magnitude of Infragravity Waves at Coastal Dikes with Shallow Foreshores: A Prediction ToolLashley, Christopher H. (author), Bricker, J.D. (author), van der Meer, J.W. (author), Altomare, Corrado (author), Suzuki, T. (author)Despite the widely recognized role of infragravity (IG) waves in many often-hazardous nearshore processes, spectral wave models, which exclude IG-wave dynamics, are often used in the design and assessment of coastal dikes. Consequently, the safety of these structures in environments where IG waves dominate remains uncertain. Here, we combine...journal article 2020
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Lashley, Christopher H. (author), Zanuttigh, B. (author), Bricker, J.D. (author), van der Meer, J.W. (author), Altomare, Corrado (author), Suzuki, T. (author), Roeber, Volker (author), Oosterlo, P. (author)Practitioners often employ diverse, though not always thoroughly validated, numerical models to directly or indirectly estimate wave overtopping (q) at sloping structures. These models, broadly classified as either phase-resolving or phase-averaged, each have strengths and limitations owing to the physical schematization of processes within...journal article 2020
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Lashley, Christopher H. (author), Bertin, Xavier (author), Roelvink, D. (author), Arnaud, Gaël (author)Wave run-up and dune overwash are typically assessed using empirical models developed for a specific range of often-simplistic conditions. Field experiments are essential in extending these formulae; yet obtaining comprehensive field data under extreme conditions is often challenging. Here, we use XBeach Surfbeat (XB-SB)-a shortwave-averaged...journal article 2019
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Sous, Damien (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Rey, Vincent (author), Touboul, Julien (author), Bouchette, Frédéric (author), Devenon, Jean Luc (author), Chevalier, Cristele (author), Aucan, Jerôme (author)This paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. The field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The combined...journal article 2019
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Lashley, Christopher H. (author), Roelvink, D. (author), Van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), Buckley, Mark (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author)The accurate prediction of extreme wave run-up is important for effective coastal engineering design and coastal hazard management. While run-up processes on open sandy coasts have been reasonably well-studied, very few studies have focused on understanding and predicting wave run-up at coral reef-fronted coastlines. This paper applies the short...journal article 2018
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Oosterlo, P. (author), McCall, R.T. (author), Vuik, V. (author), Hofland, Bas (author), van der Meer, J.W. (author), Jonkman, Sebastiaan N. (author)Shallow foreshores in front of coastal dikes can reduce the probability of dike failure due to wave overtopping. A probabilistic model framework is presented, which is capable of including complex hydrodynamics like infragravity waves, and morphological changes of a sandy foreshore during severe storms in the calculations of the probability of...journal article 2018
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Hofland, Bas (author), Chen, X. (author), Altomare, Corrado (author), Oosterlo, P. (author)During the last decades, the spectral wave period <i>T</i><sub>m-1,0</sub> has become accepted as a characteristic wave period when describing the hydraulic attack on coastal structures, especially over shallow foreshores. In this study, we derive an empirical prediction formula for <i>T</i><sub>m-1,0</sub> on shallow to extremely shallow...journal article 2017
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de Bakker, J.C. (author), Brinkkemper, J. A. (author), van der Steen, F. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Ruessink, B. G. (author)Two field data sets of near-bed velocity, pressure, and sediment concentration are analyzed to study the influence of infragravity waves on sand suspension and cross-shore transport. On the moderately sloping Sand Motor beach (≈1:35), the local ratio of infragravity wave height to sea-swell wave height is relatively small (H<sub>IG</sub>/H...journal article 2016
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