Sediment concentrations and Sediment transport in case of Irregular breaking waves

Coastal changes occur mostly as a result of changes in sediment transport along the coast. If at cross-section A, the sediment transport is for any reason larger (or smaller) than at cross-section B, accretion (or erosion) will take place in between the two cross-sections. For prediction of coast-lines in the future, the prediction of the net...

The dynamics of breaker bars: Considered as a diffusion process

In the scope of NOURTEC, an EEC project, efforts are made to simulate the behaviour of executed foreshore supplies with the aid of mathematical computer models. One of the models used are line models. On behalf of the DUT two studies contribute to NOURTEC line modelling. One concentrates on the longshore transport, and the present study focuses...