Numerical modelling of infragravity waves in coastal regions

Infragravity waves are a common feature in the nearshore wave field and have a significant impact on numerous coastal processes. It is therefore important to accurately predict infragravity wave conditions at a given location. However, analytical relations do not exist with which to make such predictions and one has to rely on numerical models....

Modelling Sediment Transport in the Swash Zone

The swash zone is the part of the beach that reaches from the limit of wave run-up until the limit of wave run-down. It is recognized as being a dynamic area of the nearshore region, characterized by strong and unsteady flows, high turbulence levels, large sediment transport rates and morphological changes on a small timescale. Due to the...

Modelling decadal barrier island behavior

The barrier islands in the Gulf of Mexico are regularly exposed to hurricanes, one of the main functions of the islands is to protect the mainland. Due to climate change the frequency and intensity of hurricanes is expected to change, which may affect the long term evolution of the islands. In this study these long term (decadal) morphological...