· · · Repository Hydraulic Engineering Reports

An empirical relationship is presented for the incipient motion of bottom material under solitary waves. Two special cases of bottom material are considered: particles of arbitrary shape, and isolated sphere resting on top of a bed of tightly packed spheres. The amount of motion in the bed of particles of arbitrary shape is shown to depend on a dimensionless shear stress, similar to the Shields parameter. The mean resistance coefficient used in estimating this parameter is derived from considerations of energy dissipation, and is obtained from measurements of the attenuation of waves along a channel. A theoretical expression for the mean resistance coefficient is developed for the case of laminar flow from the linearized boundary layer equations and is verified by experiments. For the case of a single sphere resting on top of a bed of spheres, the analysis is based on the hypothesis that at incipient motion the hydrodynamic moments which tend to remove the sphere are equal to the restoring moment due to gravity which tends to keep it in its place. It is shown that the estimation of the hydrodynamic forces, based on an approach similar to the so-called "Morison's formula", in which the drag, lift, and inertia coefficients are independent of each other, is inaccurate. Alternatively, a single coefficient incorporating both drag, inertia, and lift effects is employed. Approximate values of this coefficient are described by an empirical relationship which is obtained from the experimental results. A review of existing theories of the solitary wave is presented and an experimental study is conducted in order to determine which theory should be used in the theoretical analysis of the incipient motion of bottom material. Experiments were conducted in the laboratory in order to determine the mean resistance coefficient of the bottom under solitary waves, and in order to obtain a relationship defining the incipient motion of bottom material. All the experiments were conducted in a wave tank 40 m long, 110 cm wide with water depths varying from 7 cm to 42 cm. The mean resistance coefficient was obtained from measurements of the attenuation of waves along an 18 m section of the wave tank. Experiments were conducted with a smooth bottom and with the bottom roughened with a layer of rock. The incipient motion of particles of arbitrary shape was studied by measuring the amount of motion in a 91 cm x 50 cm section covered with a 15.9 mm thick layer of material. The materials used had different densities and mean diameters. The incipient motion of spheres was observed for spheres of different diameters and densities placed on a bed of tightly packed spheres. The experiments were conducted with various water depths, and with wave height-to-water depth ratios varying from small values up to that for breaking of the wave.