Spectral Bousinesq modelling of random waves

Title

Spectral Bousinesq modelling of random waves

 Author

Won, Y.S.
Battjes, J.A.

Faculty

Civil Engineering and Geosciences

 Date

1993

 Abstract

A spectral evolution model is implemented of the extended Boussinesq equation which can be used for varying bathymetry even in deep water region. In this model, a contribution of the triad nonlinear interaction can be segregated from that of the bottom shoaling effect. For a simple onedimensional case, an attempt to express the triad interaction as a source function term in the energy balance equation is shown. Numerical sensitivities for different initial phases and different frequency band widths are investigated. It is observed that the numerical results are dependent on the initial phases. An ensemble mean of many realizations or a frequency averaged estimation of a single realization with a very fine frequency resolution provides convergent results. These numerical estimations of the spectral model agree well with experimental data for finite-amplitude waves propagating over a bar in shallow water.

 Subject

wave transformation
boussinesq modelling

 To reference this document use:

http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:1a050535-62cb-4f7a-a800-990408d1ee6b

 Publisher

TU Delft

 ISSN

0169-6548

 Source

Communications on hydraulic and geotechnical engineering, No. 1993-02

 Part of collection

Institutional Repository

 Document type

report

 Rights

(c) TU Delft
Files
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