"uuid","repository link","title","author","contributor","publication year","abstract","subject topic","language","publication type","publisher","isbn","issn","patent","patent status","bibliographic note","access restriction","embargo date","faculty","department","research group","programme","project","coordinates"
"uuid:730e0dd1-a6d1-4f59-b068-8fa7bb85095a","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:730e0dd1-a6d1-4f59-b068-8fa7bb85095a","Evolution of ocean wave statistics in shallow water: Refraction and diffraction over seafloor topography","Janssen, T.T.; Herbers, T.H.C.; Battjes, J.A.","","2008","We present a stochastic model for the evolution of random ocean surface waves in coastal waters with complex seafloor topography. First, we derive a deterministic coupled-mode model based on a forward scattering approximation of the nonlinear mild slope equation; this model describes the evolution of random, directionally spread waves over fully two-dimensional topography, while accounting for wide angle refraction/diffraction, and quadratic nonlinear coupling. On the basis of the deterministic evolution equations, we derive transport equations for the wave statistical moments. This stochastic model evolves the complete wave cross-correlation matrix and thus resolves spatially coherent wave interference patterns induced by topographic scattering as well as nonlinear energy transfers to higher and lower frequencies. In this paper we focus on the linear aspects of the interaction with seafloor topography. Comparison to analytic solutions and laboratory observations confirms that (1) the forward scattering approximation is suitable for realistic two-dimensional topography, and (2) the combined effects of wide angle refraction and diffraction are accurately captured by the stochastic model.","wave statistics; stochastic; refraction and diffraction","en","journal article","American Geophysical Union","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:e5dea466-2037-4f2f-9c5e-a6275b7676f4","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e5dea466-2037-4f2f-9c5e-a6275b7676f4","Shoaling and shoreline dissipation of low?frequency waves","Van Dongeren, A.; Battjes, J.A.; Janssen, T.; Van Noorloos, J.; Steenhauer, K.; Steenbergen, G.; Reniers, A.","","2007","The growth rate, shoreline reflection, and dissipation of low?frequency waves are investigated using data obtained from physical experiments in the Delft University of Technology research flume and by parameter variation using the numerical model Delft3D?SurfBeat. The growth rate of the shoaling incoming long wave varies with depth with an exponent between 0.25 and 2.5. The exponent depends on a dimensionless normalized bed slope parameter ?, which distinguishes between a mild?slope regime and a steep?slope regime. This dependency on ? alone is valid if the forcing short waves are not in shallow water; that is, the forcing is off?resonant. The ? parameter also controls the reflection coefficient at the shoreline because for small values of ?, long waves are shown to break. In this mild?slope regime the dissipation due to breaking of the long waves in the vicinity of the shoreline is much higher than the dissipation due to bottom friction, confirming the findings of Thomson et al. (2006) and Henderson et al. (2006). The energy transfer from low frequencies to higher frequencies is partly due to triad interactions between low? and high?frequency waves but with decreasing depth is increasingly dominated by long?wave self?self interactions, which cause the long?wave front to steepen up and eventually break. The role of the breaking process in the near?shore evolution of the long waves is experimentally confirmed by observations of monochromatic free long waves propagating on a plane sloping beach, which shows strikingly similar characteristics, including the steepening and breaking.","low-frequency waves; subharmonic gravity waves; long waves; surf beat; wave generation; laboratory experiments","en","journal article","American Geophysical Union","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:aa260b5e-133e-41e8-baa7-4aae24dfc45a","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:aa260b5e-133e-41e8-baa7-4aae24dfc45a","Generalized evolution equations for nonlinear surface gravity waves over two-dimensional topography","Janssen, T.T.; Herbers, T.H.C.; Battjes, J.A.","","2006","","","en","journal article","Cambridge University Press","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","","","","",""
"uuid:2fba43fe-f8bd-42ac-85ee-848312d2e27e","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2fba43fe-f8bd-42ac-85ee-848312d2e27e","Energy loss and set-up due to breaking random waves","Battjes, J.A.; Janssen, J.P.F.M.","","1978","A description is given of a model developed for the prediction of the dissipation of energy in random waves breaking on a beach. The dissipation rate per breaking wave is estimated from that in a bore of corresponding height, while the probability of occurrence of breaking waves is estimated on the basis of a wave height distribution with an upper cut-off which in shallow water is determined mainly by the local depth. A comparison with measurements of wave height decay and set-up, on a plane beach and on a beach with a bar-trough profile, indicates that the model is capable of predicting qualitatively and quantitatively all the main features of the data.","wave breaking; energy dissipation; random waves","en","conference paper","ASCE","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""