; EFOh+'0HP
$TU Delft Repository search results0TU Delft Repository search results (max. 1000)TU Delft LibraryTU Delft Library@Ȃ@Ȃ՜.+,0HPX`hp
x
WorksheetFeuilles de calcul
B=%r8X"1Calibri1Calibri1Calibri1
Calibri 83ffff̙̙3f3fff3f3f33333f33333.+TU Delft Repositoryg 5uuidrepository linktitleauthorcontributorpublication yearabstract
subject topiclanguagepublication type publisherisbnissnpatent
patent statusbibliographic noteaccess restrictionembargo datefaculty
departmentresearch group programmeprojectcoordinates)uuid:730e0dd1a6d14f59b0688fa7bb85095aDhttp://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:730e0dd1a6d14f59b0688fa7bb85095ahEvolution of ocean wave statistics in shallow water: Refraction and diffraction over seafloor topographyJanssen, T.T.; Herbers, T.H.C.; Battjes, J.A.We present a stochastic model for the evolution of random ocean surface waves in coastal waters with complex seafloor topography. First, we derive a deterministic coupledmode model based on a forward scattering approximation of the nonlinear mild slope equation; this model describes the evolution of random, directionally spread waves over fully twodimensional topography, while accounting for wide angle refraction/diffraction, and quadratic nonlinear coupling. On the basis of the deterministic evolution equations, we derive transport equations for the wave statistical moments. This stochastic model evolves the complete wave crosscorrelation matrix and thus resolves spatially coherent wave interference patterns induced by topographic scattering as well as nonlinear energy transfers to higher and lower frequencies. In this paper we focus on the linear aspects of the interaction with seafloor topography. Comparison to analytic solutions and laboratory observations confirms that (1) the forward scattering approximation is suitable for realistic twodimensional topography, and (2) the combined effects of wide angle refraction and diffraction are accurately captured by the stochastic model.7wave statistics; stochastic; refraction and diffractionenjournal articleAmerican Geophysical Union!Civil Engineering and GeosciencesHydraulic Engineering)uuid:e5dea46620374f2f9c5ea6275b7676f4Dhttp://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e5dea46620374f2f9c5ea6275b7676f49Shoaling and shoreline dissipation of low?frequency waveslVan Dongeren, A.; Battjes, J.A.; Janssen, T.; Van Noorloos, J.; Steenhauer, K.; Steenbergen, G.; Reniers, A.EThe growth rate, shoreline reflection, and dissipation of low?frequency waves are investigated using data obtained from physical experiments in the Delft University of Technology research flume and by parameter variation using the numerical model Delft3D?SurfBeat. The growth rate of the shoaling incoming long wave varies with depth with an exponent between 0.25 and 2.5. The exponent depends on a dimensionless normalized bed slope parameter ?, which distinguishes between a mild?slope regime and a steep?slope regime. This dependency on ? alone is valid if the forcing short waves are not in shallow water; that is, the forcing is off?resonant. The ? parameter also controls the reflection coefficient at the shoreline because for small values of ?, long waves are shown to break. In this mild?slope regime the dissipation due to breaking of the long waves in the vicinity of the shoreline is much higher than the dissipation due to bottom friction, confirming the findings of Thomson et al. (2006) and Henderson et al. (2006). The energy transfer from low frequencies to higher frequencies is partly due to triad interactions between low? and high?frequency waves but with decreasing depth is increasingly dominated by long?wave self?self interactions, which cause the long?wave front to steepen up and eventually break. The role of the breaking process in the near?shore evolution of the long waves is experimentally confirmed by observations of monochromatic free long waves propagating on a plane sloping beach, which shows strikingly similar characteristics, including the steepening and breaking.nlowfrequency waves; subharmonic gravity waves; long waves; surf beat; wave generation; laboratory experiments)uuid:aa260b5e133e41e8baa74aae24dfc45aDhttp://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:aa260b5e133e41e8baa74aae24dfc45acGeneralized evolution equations for nonlinear surface gravity waves over twodimensio<nal topographyCambridge University Press)uuid:2fba43fef8bd42ac85ee848312d2e27eDhttp://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2fba43fef8bd42ac85ee848312d2e27e3Energy loss and setup due to breaking random waves Battjes, J.A.; Janssen, J.P.F.M.A description is given of a model developed for the prediction of the dissipation of energy in random waves breaking on a beach. The dissipation rate per breaking wave is estimated from that in a bore of corresponding height, while the probability of occurrence of breaking waves is estimated on the basis of a wave height distribution with an upper cutoff which in shallow water is determined mainly by the local depth. A comparison with measurements of wave height decay and setup, on a plane beach and on a beach with a bartrough profile, indicates that the model is capable of predicting qualitatively and quantitatively all the main features of the data./wave breaking; energy dissipation; random wavesconference paperASCE
*+&ffffff?'ffffff?(?)?"dXX333333?333333?U}}}}}}}}}} }
}}}
}}}}}}}}}}}}
`@
!
"
#
$
%
&\@
'
(
!
"
)
*
+
X@
,
!

.
/
0@
1
2
3
4
!
"
!"#$%&'()*+,./0123456789:;<=>?@ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ[\]^_`abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz{}~
!"#$%&'()*+,./0123456789:;<=>?@ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ[\]^_`abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz{}~
!"#$%&'()*+,./0123456789:;<=>?@ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ[\]^_`abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz{}~
!"#$%&'()*+,./0123456789:;<=>?@ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ[\]^_`abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz{}~
!"#$%&'()*+,./0123456789:;<=>?@ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ[\]^_`abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz{}~
!"#$%&'()*+,./0123456789:;<=>?@ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ[\]^_`abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz{}~
!"#$%&'()*+,./0123456789:;<=>?@ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ[\]^_`abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz{}~
!"#$%&'()*+,./0123456789:;<=>?@ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ[\]^_`abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz{}~>@ddyKyKhttp://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:730e0dd1a6d14f59b0688fa7bb85095ayKyKhttp://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e5dea46620374f2f9c5ea6275b7676f4yKyKhttp://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:aa260b5e133e41e8baa74aae24dfc45ayKyKhttp://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2fba43fef8bd42ac85ee848312d2e27egg
Root Entry FȂȂ@SummaryInformation( F<Workbook F<DocumentSummaryInformation8 F
!"#$%&'()*+,./0123456789:;<=>?@ABCD