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- Janssen, T.T. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author), Battjes, J.A. (author) journal article 2006
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Janssen, T.T. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author), Battjes, J.A. (author)We present a stochastic model for the evolution of random ocean surface waves in coastal waters with complex seafloor topography. First, we derive a deterministic coupled-mode model based on a forward scattering approximation of the nonlinear mild slope equation; this model describes the evolution of random, directionally spread waves over fully...journal article 2008
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Smit, P.B. (author), Janssen, T.T. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author)Refractive focusing of swell waves can result in fast-scale variations in the wave statistics because of wave interference, which cannot be resolved by stochastic wave models based on the radiative transport equation. Quasi-coherent statistical theory does account for such statistical interferences and the associated wave inhomogeneities, but...journal article 2015