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Janssen, T.T. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author), Battjes, J.A. (author)
We present a stochastic model for the evolution of random ocean surface waves in coastal waters with complex seafloor topography. First, we derive a deterministic coupled-mode model based on a forward scattering approximation of the nonlinear mild slope equation; this model describes the evolution of random, directionally spread waves over fully...
journal article 2008
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Van Dongeren, A. (author), Battjes, J.A. (author), Janssen, T. (author), Van Noorloos, J. (author), Steenhauer, K. (author), Steenbergen, G. (author), Reniers, A. (author)
The growth rate, shoreline reflection, and dissipation of low?frequency waves are investigated using data obtained from physical experiments in the Delft University of Technology research flume and by parameter variation using the numerical model Delft3D?SurfBeat. The growth rate of the shoaling incoming long wave varies with depth with an...
journal article 2007
document
Janssen, T.T. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author), Battjes, J.A. (author)
journal article 2006