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Janssen, T.T. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author), Battjes, J.A. (author)
We present a stochastic model for the evolution of random ocean surface waves in coastal waters with complex seafloor topography. First, we derive a deterministic coupled-mode model based on a forward scattering approximation of the nonlinear mild slope equation; this model describes the evolution of random, directionally spread waves over fully...
journal article 2008