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Akrish, G. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Smit, P.B. (author)
Coastal wave forecasting over large spatial scales is essential for many applications (e.g., coastal safety assessments, coastal management and developments, etc.). This demand explains the necessity for accurate yet effective models. A well-known efficient modelling approach is the quadratic approach (often referred to as frequency-domain...
journal article 2024
document
Akrish, G. (author), Smit, Pieter (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)
Weyl rule of association, proposed by Hermann Weyl for quantum mechanics applications (Weyl, 1931), can be used to associate between the dispersion relation of water waves and a non-local pseudo-differential operator. The central result of this study is that this operator correctly approximates the Dirichlet-to-Neumann operator derived for...
journal article 2023
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Akrish, G. (author), Smit, Pieter (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)
Wave forecasting in ocean and coastal waters commonly relies on spectral models based on the spectral action balance equation. These models assume that different wave components are statistically independent and as a consequence cannot resolve wave interference due to statistical correlation between crossing waves, as may be found in, for...
journal article 2020
document
Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Smit, Pieter B. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)
Wave-induced currents are an ubiquitous feature in coastal waters that can spread material over the surf zone and the inner shelf. These currents are typically under resolved in non-hydrostatic wave-flow models due to computational constraints. Specifically, the low vertical resolutions adequate to describe the wave dynamics – and required to...
journal article 2017
document
Salmon, J.E. (author), Holthuijsen, L.H. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Van Vledder, G.P. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)
This paper presents the application of new source terms in SWAN for the dominant water wave physics in the coastal zone: depth-induced breaking and triad wave-wave interactions. We present results demonstrating increased modelling skill in the prediction of bulk wave parameters e.g. significant wave height and of the spectral shape compared to...
conference paper 2014
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Zijlema, M. (author), Van Vledder, G.P. (author), Holthuijsen, L.H. (author), Salmon, J.E. (author), Smit, P.B. (author)
The SWAN model is a third-generation spectral wave prediction model developed by Delft University of Technology. Since its initial release in 1998 this model has become a widely used and reliable tool for offshore and near shore wave predictions. Its main field of application is the coastal zone where, by virtue of its implicit numerical scheme,...
conference paper 2013
document
Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)
This paper presents numerical modelling of the nearshore transformation of infragravity waves induced by bichromatic wave groups over a horizontal and a sloping bottom. The non-hydrostatic model SWASH is assessed by comparing model predictions with analytical solutions over a horizontal bottom and with detailed laboratory observations for a...
conference paper 2012
document
Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)
This paper presents numerical modelling of the nearshore transformation of infragravity waves induced by bichromatic wave groups over a horizontal and a sloping bottom. The non-hydrostatic model SWASH is assessed by comparing model predictions with analytical solutions over a horizontal bottom and with detailed laboratory observations for a...
conference paper 2012
document
Zijlema, M. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Stelling, G.S. (author)
conference paper 2011
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