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Smit, P.B. (author), Janssen, T.T. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author)
Refractive focusing of swell waves can result in fast-scale variations in the wave statistics because of wave interference, which cannot be resolved by stochastic wave models based on the radiative transport equation. Quasi-coherent statistical theory does account for such statistical interferences and the associated wave inhomogeneities, but...
journal article 2015
document
De Bakker, A.T.M. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Ruessink, B.G. (author)
A high-resolution dataset of three irregular wave conditions collected on a gently sloping laboratory beach is analyzed to study nonlinear energy transfers involving infragravity frequencies. This study uses bispectral analysis to identify the dominant, nonlinear interactions and estimate energy transfers to investigate energy flows within the...
journal article 2015
document
Smit, P.B. (author), Janssen, T.T. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author)
Refraction of narrow-band surface waves in coastal areas can result in wave-focal zones where due to interference, wave statistics vary rapidly and on similar length scales as those of individual waves. However such interference patterns, or wave coherence, are not accounted for in conventional stochastic wave models that are based on the energy...
conference paper 2012
document
Smit, P.B. (author), Janssen, T.T. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author)
Refraction of narrow-band surface waves in coastal areas can result in wave-focal zones where due to interference, wave statistics vary rapidly and on similar length scales as those of individual waves. However such interference patterns, or wave coherence, are not accounted for in conventional stochastic wave models that are based on the energy...
conference paper 2012
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