Evolution of ocean wave statistics in shallow water: Refraction and diffraction over seafloor topography

We present a stochastic model for the evolution of random ocean surface waves in coastal waters with complex seafloor topography. First, we derive a deterministic coupled-mode model based on a forward scattering approximation of the nonlinear mild slope equation; this model describes the evolution of random, directionally spread waves over fully...

Shoaling and shoreline dissipation of low?frequency waves

The growth rate, shoreline reflection, and dissipation of low?frequency waves are investigated using data obtained from physical experiments in the Delft University of Technology research flume and by parameter variation using the numerical model Delft3D?SurfBeat. The growth rate of the shoaling incoming long wave varies with depth with an...

Generalized evolution equations for nonlinear surface gravity waves over two-dimensional topography

Energy loss and set-up due to breaking random waves

A description is given of a model developed for the prediction of the dissipation of energy in random waves breaking on a beach. The dissipation rate per breaking wave is estimated from that in a bore of corresponding height, while the probability of occurrence of breaking waves is estimated on the basis of a wave height distribution with an...