Verification of the shearstress boundary conditions in the undertow problem

As part of a revision of the quasi-3D approach for coastal currents, the two-dimensional undertow problem is being restudied. Since the first proposal for approaches in the 1980's progress has been made by several researchers (e.g. Deigaard and Fredsoe, 1989) on the potential importance of contributions neglected initially, such as the time-mean...

Shear stresses and mean flow in shoaling and breaking waves

We investigate the vertical, wave averaged distributions of shear stresses and Eulerian flow in normally incident, shoaling and breaking waves. It is found that shear stresses are solely due to wave amplitude variations, which can be caused by shoaling, boundary layer dissipation and/or breaking wave dissipation. The resulting shear stress and...