Modeling of wave attenuation by vegetation with XBeach

Over the past decades the effect of vegetation (e.g. kelp, mangroves, sea grass) on nearshore coastal processes has received more and more attention. In recent years several numerical wave models have been extended to include this effect. In the current study, the numerical storm impact model XBeach was extended with formulations found in...

Modelling Scour in Front of Dune Revetments in a Surf-beat Model

This paper presents adaptations to the XBeach model aimed at including the relevant processes for the generation of scour holes at the toe of a revetment. Dutch assessment rules for the safety of sea defenses need to be adjusted to cope with a combination of sandy dunes and hard elements. To that end, the XBeach model is prepared to be...

Applicability of video-derived bathymetry estimates to nearshore current model predictions

In the framework of swimmer safety, coastal managers desire accurate nearshore current predictions obtained from numerical models. To this end, detailed and up-to-date bathymetry is a necessity. Remote sensing techniques for bathymetry estimation are a promising solution. The focus of this paper is to assess the performance of wavenumberbased...

Modelling aeolian sediment accumulations on a beach

This paper aims to conceptually simulate observed spatial and temporal variability in aeolian sediment transport rates, erosion and deposition on a beach. Traditional strategies of modeling aeolian sediment transport rates do not account for supply limitations that are common on natural beaches. A recently developed 1D linear advection model is...

Influence of profile features on longshore sediment transport

Longshore sediment transport (LST) is one of the main drivers of beach morphology. Bulk LST formulas are routinely used in coastal management/engineering studies to assess LST rates and gradients. However, there is still great uncertainty in LST estimation with these bulk formulas. This uncertainty may have two sources: 1) experimental errors in...

Low frequency wave resonance in fringing reef environments

Low frequency wave resonance has been postulated to enhance damage to coral reef protected coastlines during storm events. This paper uses the numerical model XBeach to examine the dynamics that contribute to resonance that have been previously observed on a fringing reef on Guam during tropical storm Man-Yi (Péquignet et al., 2009). The methods...

Process-based modeling of coastal dune development

In this paper, the aeolian transport model DUNE (Sauermann et al., 2001, Kroy et al., 2002) that describes important features and dynamics of typical desert dunes, is extended such that it can be applied in sandy coastal areas. Initial tests explore the limitations of the model in coastal areas after which adaptations are proposed and...

Modelling storm impact on complex coastlines: Westkapelle, The Netherlands

Regular dune safety assessments in the Netherlands are presently based on a 1D model approach, which is insufficiently applicable for more complex coastal areas with structures, tidal channels or spatially strong varying bathymetry. These situations require more advanced methods to assess the safety in dune areas. In this study a 2DH XBeach...

A comprehensive sediment budget for the Mississippi Barrier Islands

In order to conceive any realistic plan for post-Katrina island restoration, it is necessary to understand the physical processes that move sand along the littoral drift zone off the coast of Mississippi. This littoral zone influences the character of the Mississippi barrier islands as they exist in an ever changing cycle. To help in this...

Dune erosion near sea walls: Model-data comparison

This paper describes the validation of the dune erosion model XBeach with laboratory measurement data of dune erosion in the presence of sea walls and revetments. Simulation results show that the essential dune set back processes are captured by the model and that the measurements at most locations are approximated quite well. Some aspects...

Re-assessment and update of bulk longshore sediment transport formulas

Longshore sediment transport (LST) is one of the main drivers of beach morphology. Bulk LST formulas are routinely used in coastal management/engineering studies to assess LST rates and gradients. Over 50 years of research has resulted in several bulk LST formulas that have been tested with varying levels of rigor. In this study, the predictive...

Dune erosion above revetments

In a situation with a narrow dune, the dune base can be protected with a revetment to reduce dune erosion during extreme events. To quantify the effects of a revetment on storm impact, the functionality of the numerical storm impact model XBeach (Roelvink et al., 2009) is extended to account for the complex morphodynamics around revetments. Here...

Modeling Swash zone sediment transport at Truc Vert beach

A one-dimensional hydrostatic version of the XBeach model (Roelvink et al., 2009) is applied to hindcast swash morphodynamics measured during an accretive, and an erosive tide at Le Truc Vert beach (France) in early spring 2008 (Masselink et. al, 2009; Blenkinsopp et al., 2011). Swash hydrodynamics are solved by applying the nonlinear shallow...

Impact assessment of extreme storm events using a Bayesian network

This paper describes an investigation on the usefulness of Bayesian Networks in the safety assessment of dune coasts. A network has been created that predicts the erosion volume based on hydraulic boundary conditions and a number of cross-shore profile indicators. Field measurement data along a large part of the Dutch coast has been used to...

The effect of longshore topographic variation on overwash modelling

This paper describes an application of the XBeach model to investigate the effect of longshore topographic variance on overwash. The model is used to simulate the morphological response of an eight-kilometer section of Santa Rosa Island, Florida, due to Hurricane Ivan (2004). The influence of longshore scales in the bed elevation is investigated...

The effect of the longshore dimension on dune erosion

The effect of the longshore dimension on dune erosion is examined numerically with a 2DH process based model XBeach. Exploratory simulations are presented to examine longshore effects due to directionally spread waves, longshore variation in topography and longshore variation in bathymetry. The simulations reveal that alongshore sediment...

Short wave breaking effects on low frequency waves

The effect of short wave breaking on low frequency waves is investigated using two breaker formulations implemented in a time-dependent numerical model (XBeach): (1) an advective-deterministic approach (ADA) and (2) the probabilistic breaker formulation of Roelvink (1993). Previous research has shown that the ADA breaker model gives different...

Using Stereo Photo Measurements to Analyze the Surfability of Ship Induced Waves

The objective of this paper is to demonstrate the use of Stereo Photogrammetry (SP) measuring ship-generated waves and to determine under which conditions they are suitable for surfing. A physical experiment is conducted to gain insight in ship wave behavior under specific conditions. Waves are generated by a hull and are measured using SP. It...