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Groen, P. (author)The behaviour of internal waves in vertically inhomogeneous fluids has been studied theoretically by various authors, from the point of view of general hydrodynamics as well as of meteorology and of physical oceanography (see the list of references, which, however, is not meant to be complete). For mathematical reasons most of them assumed...report 1948
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Bretschneider, C.L. (author)This report was prepared originally as a series of lectures given at the International Summer Course on "Some Aspects of Shallow Water Oceanology" held at Lunteren, the Netherlands, The subject of this phase of the lectures, "Generation of Waves by Wind, " included both deep and shallow water conditions. The decay of swell in both deep and...report 1964
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Dean, R.G. (author)The engineer required to calculate theoretical wave characteristics such as wave profiles and wave forces and moments on piling, is confronted with a problem which includes (1) selecting one of a number of available theories and (2) calculating the required information which, for some of the theories, is a relatively complicated procedure. This...report 1965
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Eagleson, P.S. (author)Momentum flux considerations are used to formulate a differential equation governing the growth, with distance, of the mean longshore current velocity in the surf-zone on a plane, impermeable beach due to monochromatic waves. The equation is solved for the flow situation downstream of a surf-zone barrier and is shown to compare favorably with...report 1965
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Le Méhauté, B. (author)It is common engineering practice in a hydraulic model study involving both gravity waves and a solid structure to measure the hydrodynamic forces on the model of the structure and then calculate the resulting internal structural stresses. Because of the large variety of available elastic material, and the latest development in solid state...report 1965
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Collins, J.I. (author)Over the past two or three years, Texas A &: M University has been operating facilities offshore of Panama City, Florida, to observe and collect environmental oceanographic data in the Gulf of Mexico. Waves are measured using Hytech resistance type wave staffs. The data is recorded more or less continuously in digital form on magnetic tape. The...report 1965
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Monkmeyer, P.L. (author), Kutzbach, J.E. (author)The classical problem of describing the characteristics of deep water waves of finite amplitude is considered. The method of analysis initially follows that of Nekrasov, but differs in that a non-linear algebraic equation is derived. This equation is solved to the third, fifth and fifteenth order by means of a digital computer and the data is...report 1965
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Apmann, R.P. (author), Rumer, R.R. (author)The suspension of sediment particles by turbulent eddy diffusion in a non- uniform flow region was studied, using the convective-diffusion equation as a mathematical model. A simplified form of the equation for which mixing characteristics and flow velocities 'vere assumed uniform was found to accurately describe the sediment concentration...report 1967
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Battjes, J.A. (author)There is some evidence that the heights and the periods squared of wind waves each are Rayleigh- distributed. If this is the case, it may be surmised that their joint distribution is also of the Rayleigh type. The bivariate Rayleigh distribution, which is known in the field of statistical communications theory, may thus be applicable to wind...report 1969
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Cross, R.H. (author), Sollitt, C. (author)This report presents a theory for ocean wave transmission past breakwaters by overtopping, based on an evaluation of the energy content of the overtopping water. While several coefficients are subject to further investigation, the data shows that the general form of the equations developed is correct. Comparison with large-scale model tests...report 1970
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Schoemaker, H.J. (author)D1: Golven van het wateroppervlak, grondformules in eerste benadering (1956) D2: Golfvervorming door wind; overzicht van de ontwikkelingen tot 1955 (1955) D3: Second-order effects in progressinve surface waves (1961) D4: Golven in stromend water (1960) D5: Diffractie (1950) D6: Investigations of the reflection of waves (1949)report 1971
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Dean, R.G. (author)Volume I of this report presents the results of a research program to evaluate and develop water wave theories for engineering application. A second volume of this report presents wave tables developed for preliminary design in offshore problems. Volume I describes: (1) an evaluation of the degree to which various available wave theories satisfy...report 1972
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Hasselmann, K. (author), Barnett, T.P. (author), Bouws, E. (author), Carlson, H. (author), Cartwright, D.E. (author), Enke, K. (author), Ewing, J.A. (author), Gienapp, H. (author), Hasselmann, D.E. (author), Kruseman, P. (author), Meerburg, A. (author), Müller, P. (author), Olbers, D.J. (author), Richter, K. (author), Sell, W. (author), Walden, H. (author)"Wave spectra were measured along a profile extending 160 kilometers into the North Sea westward from Sylt for a period often weeks in 1968 and 1969. During the main experiment in July 1969, thirteen wave stations were in operation, of which six stations continued measurements into the first two weeks of August. A smaller pilot experiment was...report 1973
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Dean, R.W. (author)Table for wave computations.report 1974
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Battjes, J.A. (author), Roos, A. (author)The run-up of waves is an important factor in the design of shore structures. It has been investigated in many studies, both theoretical and experimental. The experimental studies have mostly been confined to the maximum run-up (the greatest height above still water level, reached by the periodic waves on the slope). A simple and reliable...report 1975
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- Dingemans, M.W. (author) report 1977
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Battjes, J.A. (author)Background material for a special lecture on probabilistic aspects of ocean waves for a seminar in Trondheim. It describes long term statistics and short term statistics. Statistical distributions of waves, directional spectra and frequency spectra. Sea state parameters, response peaks, encounter probability.report 1977
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Herbich, J.B. (author), Brahme, S.B. (author)Maximum bottom velocities caused by waves were calculated using digital computers. Four wave theories, Airy, Stokes third order, Cnoidal and Solitary,were applied in the computation. Results of the study were tabulated and presented graphically to highlight the importance of various parameters affecting the maximum bottom velocity. It is...report 1977
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- Schmitke, Rodney T. (author) report 1978
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- Vis, F.C. (author) report 1980