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- Schmitke, Rodney T. (author) report 1978
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Bretschneider, C.L. (author)This report was prepared originally as a series of lectures given at the International Summer Course on "Some Aspects of Shallow Water Oceanology" held at Lunteren, the Netherlands, The subject of this phase of the lectures, "Generation of Waves by Wind, " included both deep and shallow water conditions. The decay of swell in both deep and...report 1964
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Van Leeuwen, P.J. (author), Klopman, G. (author)For the generation of second-order random waves in a flume the control signal for the wave board has to be correct up to second order. An expression for this control signal is derived with the perturbation method of multiple scales. It is much less complex and requires less computation time than the expressions obtained from the full second...report 1991
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Battjes, J.A. (author)Background material for a special lecture on probabilistic aspects of ocean waves for a seminar in Trondheim. It describes long term statistics and short term statistics. Statistical distributions of waves, directional spectra and frequency spectra. Sea state parameters, response peaks, encounter probability.report 1977
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- Farr, Bruce (author), Oliver, Clay (author) report 1993
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De Wit, P.J. (author)A research project was carried out at the Delft University of Technology in order to study the interaction between waves as weil as a current and a muddy bed. For this purpose several experiments were made on two artificial clays, namely China Clay and Westwald Clay. The results of the experiments on China Clay were reported by De Wit (1994). In...report 1994
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Dean, R.G. (author)The engineer required to calculate theoretical wave characteristics such as wave profiles and wave forces and moments on piling, is confronted with a problem which includes (1) selecting one of a number of available theories and (2) calculating the required information which, for some of the theories, is a relatively complicated procedure. This...report 1965
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Janssen, C.M. (author)This literature review is part of the ongoing research on sand transport in oscillatory sheet-flow, as taking place at the coast during storms. Because sheet-flow corresponds to conditions of high shear stress, large amounts of sand are transported. Therefore it is an important part of the total sand transport (sheet-flow and suspended load)....report 1995
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Tamburic, Z. (author), Holmes, P. (author)A series of comprehensive velocity measurements was carried out on the three dimensional model of the berm breakwater at the Danish Hydraulic Institute (DHI) in September 1995. Those measurements were a part of the research on berm breakwaters within the MAST II programme sponsored by the Commission of the European Communities. The major part of...report 1995
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Boccotti, P. (author)Analysis of sea states in deep water. - Discussed will be the difficulties of an analytical solution for the wave period and the wave height probability - The closed solution for the wave height probability in the limit of the band-width approaching zero - The closed solution for the wave height probability in the limit H/sqrt(m0)->inf. - The...report 1992
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Peregrine, D.H. (author)The aim of this workshop was to take advantage of the recent freedom available to scientists in the Soviet Union (now Commonwealth of Independent States) to travel to the West in order to develop both contacts and an awareness of current research between research workers from East and West, most of whom have formerly had little contact. We...report 1991
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De Wit, P.J. (author)A research project was started at the Delft University of Technology in order to study the interaction between waves as well as a current and a muddy bed. For this purpose several experiments were made on artificial clays. In the present report only flume experiments on China Clay are discussed. In the experiments made special attention was paid...report 1994
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Goda, Yoshimi (author)HIstorical overview of the development of wave formulas used in coastal engineering.report 1999
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Klopman, G. (author)Previous measurements (e.g., Klopman, 1994) have shown that in the centre-line of the flume the mean horizontal velocity profile in waves fol/owing the current bends back in the upper region of the water column compared to the current alone case. For waves opposing the current the opposite behaviour was found . In order to explain this behaviour...report 1997
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Eagleson, P.S. (author)Momentum flux considerations are used to formulate a differential equation governing the growth, with distance, of the mean longshore current velocity in the surf-zone on a plane, impermeable beach due to monochromatic waves. The equation is solved for the flow situation downstream of a surf-zone barrier and is shown to compare favorably with...report 1965
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Battjes, J.A. (author), Roos, A. (author)The run-up of waves is an important factor in the design of shore structures. It has been investigated in many studies, both theoretical and experimental. The experimental studies have mostly been confined to the maximum run-up (the greatest height above still water level, reached by the periodic waves on the slope). A simple and reliable...report 1975
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Svendsen, A. (author)Surf zone dynamics is a highly complicated topic in hydrodynamics which deals with the waves and wave generated phenomena in the region between the breaker line on a beach and the shoreline. When waves break on a gently sloping beach, large amounts of energy are released and turned into turbulence. As the waves keep breaking and interacting with...report 1992
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McIvor, A.L. (author), Möller, I. (author), Spencer, T. (author), Spalding, M. (author)Coastal populations are particularly vulnerable to the impacts of extreme events such as storms and hurricanes, and these pressures may be exacerbated through the influence of climate change and sea level rise. Coastal ecosystems such as mangrove forests are increasingly being promoted and used as a tool in coastal defence strategies. There...report 2012
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Dean, R.W. (author)Table for wave computations.report 1974
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Le Méhauté, B. (author)It is common engineering practice in a hydraulic model study involving both gravity waves and a solid structure to measure the hydrodynamic forces on the model of the structure and then calculate the resulting internal structural stresses. Because of the large variety of available elastic material, and the latest development in solid state...report 1965