Probabilistic aspects of ocean waves

Background material for a special lecture on probabilistic aspects of ocean waves for a seminar in Trondheim. It describes long term statistics and short term statistics. Statistical distributions of waves, directional spectra and frequency spectra. Sea state parameters, response peaks, encounter probability.

Energy dissipation in breaking solitary and periodic waves

It is well known (see Divoky et al., 1970, for a review) that on gentle slopes (slope S < 1:30, say) the wave height after breaking does not decay in proportion to the mean depth. The curve H/Hb vs h/hb is concave upwards (for plane bottom). The concavity increases with decreasing S and with increasing Ho/Lo (Nakamura et al., 1966). The often...

Implementation of boundary conditions for locked waves

This report refers to the work done at the Fluid Mechanics Section within the framework of the Netherlands Centre for Coastal Research (NCK). As shown by Reniers et al. (2000) there are strong indications that wave-group related phenomena are important in the development of rip channels. It is to be expected that edge waves caused by wave-group...

Characteristics of flow in run-up of periodic waves

The run-up of waves is an important factor in the design of shore structures. It has been investigated in many studies, both theoretical and experimental. The experimental studies have mostly been confined to the maximum run-up (the greatest height above still water level, reached by the periodic waves on the slope). A simple and reliable...

Golfoploop en overslag

Bij het samenstellen van het rapport "Golfoploop en golfoverslag" is er naar gestreefd: een overzicht te geven van de betreffende literatuur, de in deze literatuur voorkomende gegevens te analyseren en te interpreteren, waar mogelijk verbanden te leggen tussen de resultaten uit de verschillende literatuurbronnen, aanbevelingen te geven voor...

Facts and figures pertaining to the bivariate Rayleigh distribution

There is some evidence that the heights and the periods squared of wind waves each are Rayleigh- distributed. If this is the case, it may be surmised that their joint distribution is also of the Rayleigh type. The bivariate Rayleigh distribution, which is known in the field of statistical communications theory, may thus be applicable to wind...

Spectral Bousinesq modelling of random waves

A spectral evolution model is implemented of the extended Boussinesq equation which can be used for varying bathymetry even in deep water region. In this model, a contribution of the triad nonlinear interaction can be segregated from that of the bottom shoaling effect. For a simple onedimensional case, an attempt to express the triad interaction...

Characteristics of phase-averaged equations for modulated wave groups

The project concerns the influence of long waves on coastal morphology. The modelling of the combined motion of the long waves and short waves in the horizontal plane is done by phase-averaging over the short wave motion and using intra-wave modelling for the long waves, see e.g. Roelvink (1993). The evolution of the long-wave motion and the...

Golfoploop en golfoverslag

Bij het samenstellen van het rapport "Golfoploop en golfoverslag" is er naar gestreefd: een overzicht te geven van de betreffende literatuur, de in deze literatuur voorkomende gegevens te analyseren en te interpreteren, waar mogelijk verbanden te leggen tussen de resultaten uit de verschillende literatuurbronnen, aanbevelingen te geven voor...

Wave attenuation in a channel with roughened sides

A semi-empirical study l~as made of the attenuation of water waves in a rectangular channel, the side walls of which had been provided with regularly spaced roughness strips. Such strips were found to be highly effective wave dampers. A dimensionless resistance coefficient could be deduced from the attenuation data; this coefficient was mainly a...

Run-up distributions of waves breaking on sloping walls

Distributions of run-up are calculated by assigning to each individual wave in an irregular wave train a run-up value according to Hunt's formula. The use of this formula permits a normalization of the run-up in such a way that the run-up distributions are independent of slope angle, mean wave height and mean wave period, Expressions arc derived...

Set-up due to irregular waves

Energy losses in breaking irregular waves are estimated on the assumption that a wave, while breaking, loses only that portion of its height which would be in excess of the breaker height for the given wave period and the mean local depth. This leads to expressions for the magnitude of the radiation stresses as a function of the distance...

Wave run-up and overtopping

Overview of methods to design wave run-up and overtopping for dikes and other sloping structures for regular and irregular breaking waves. Summary of experimental data and suggestions for design formulae. English translation of: Golfoploop en golfoverslag - http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:522060cb-8202-4276-bc48-ace65e137f40

Golfoploop en golfoverslag

Tot de taak van de door de Technische Adviescommissie voor de Waterkeringen ingestelde werkgroep "Golfproblemen bij dijken" behoort het bestuderen van de problemen met betrekking tot de golfoploop en golfoverslag bij waterkeringen. In het kader van deze taak is de Werkgroep begonnen met het inventariseren van de huidige kennis door het...

Wave runup and overtopping

Overview of methods to design wave run-up and overtopping for dikes and other sloping structures for regular and irregular breaking waves. Summary of experimental data and suggestions for design formulae