"uuid","repository link","title","author","contributor","publication year","abstract","subject topic","language","publication type","publisher","isbn","issn","patent","patent status","bibliographic note","access restriction","embargo date","faculty","department","research group","programme","project","coordinates"
"uuid:4b2f5aed-c520-4120-894f-dedd897bc4db","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:4b2f5aed-c520-4120-894f-dedd897bc4db","Numerical Simulations of Effects of the Layout of Permeable Pile Groin Systems on Longshore Currents","Zhang, R. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Hohai University); Chen, Y. (Hohai University); Yao, P. (Hohai University); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Zeng, Jian (Zhejiang Institute of Marine Planning and Design)","","2023","Coastal permeable groins have been used to protect beaches from erosion for centuries. However, the hydraulic functioning of permeable groins has not been fully understood and their design heavily depends on engineering experiences. In this study, numerical experiments were executed to investigate the effects of layout configurations of a permeable groin system on longshore currents. The non-hydrostatic SWASH (Simulating WAve till SHore) model was employed to carry out the numerical simulations. Two data sets obtained from physical laboratory experiments with different permeable groin layouts on different slopes are used to validate the accuracy of the model. Then, the longshore current reduction by the permeable groin system with varying configuration parameters (e.g., groin spacing, groin length) was numerically investigated under different environmental conditions (e.g., a slight or a moderate wave climate). From the calculation results of numerical experiments, it is indicated that permeable groins function efficiently to reduce the maximal longshore current velocity under the condition that the groin length ranges from 84% and 109% of the wave breaker zone width. The longshore current reduction rate monotonously decreases with the increase in groin spacing; permeable pile groin functions best to reduce longshore current with the minimal groin spacing-groin length ratio 1:1 among the range between 1:1 and 2:1. When the groin spacing–groin length ratios are 1:1 and 1.5:1, the longshore current reduction is not sensitive to the investigated wave conditions in this study. When the spatial ratio is 2:1, the permeable pile groin system functions worse under a moderate wave climate than under a slight wave climate, from the view of longshore current reduction.","permeable pile groin; layout design; SWASH; longshore current; longshore current reduction","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:9e066479-d288-4a8a-b962-5a312e56f337","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:9e066479-d288-4a8a-b962-5a312e56f337","Experimental investigation of wave attenuation by mangrove forests with submerged canopies","Zhang, R. (Hohai University; State Environmental Protection Key Laboratory of Marine Ecosystem Restoration); Chen, Y. (Hohai University); Lei, Jiaxin (Hohai University); Zhou, Xin (Hohai University; Ministry of Land and Resources of China); Yao, P. (Hohai University); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2023","Mangroves can function as a ‘bio-shield’ to protect coastal communities from harsh environments because of their strong ability to attenuate wave energy. However, as mangroves are usually oversimplified as rigid cylinders in antecedent studies, the effects of complex mangrove morphology on wave attenuation have not been well researched. Although increasing attention has been paid to the wave dissipation induced by varying mangrove morphologies, most of them focus on the bottom trunk and root components of mature mangrove trees. There are few investigations about the contributions of the canopies of young saplings and/or short species to wave attenuation. To bridge this knowledge gap, a series of laboratory experiments under regular waves were conducted to examine the hydrodynamic variations affected by varying mangrove morphology configurations. Three water depths were considered to explore the influences of the vertical-varying submerged volume of mangroves when the artificial mangrove models are submerged, nearly emergent, and fully emergent. The mangrove forest model is 2 m long at a 1:10 scale. Three mangrove configurations, i.e. with no canopy, sparse canopy, and dense canopy were applied and compared to isolate the wave attenuation contributed by mangrove canopies. The results highlight the wave energy attenuation attributed to the canopy density. A linear correlation is found between the wave damping factor and a new variable named hydraulic submerged volume index (HSVI). The bulk drag coefficient, including canopy effects, was calculated to characterize mangrove-induced wave attenuation when the mangrove canopy is submerged. The relationships between the bulk drag coefficient CD and the characteristic hydraulic numbers (i.e., Reynolds number, Keulegan–Carpenter number, Ursell number) are discussed in detail. Consequently, new generic formulas of CD were deduced considering the effects of the submerged canopy. The employment of new CD formulas improves the reliability of the prediction of the wave attenuation ability by mangroves since the canopy effects are incorporated.","Drag coefficient; Experimental analysis; Submerged mangrove canopies; Wave attenuation; Wave damping factor","en","journal article","","","","","","Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository ‘You share, we take care!’ – Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.","","2024-03-23","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:01128df0-d17b-4182-939f-893ebf6b6555","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:01128df0-d17b-4182-939f-893ebf6b6555","Morphodynamic changes in the Yangtze Estuary under the impact of the Three Gorges Dam, estuarine engineering interventions and climate-induced sea level rise","Cheng, H. Q. (East China Normal University; Institute of Eco-Chongming (IEC)); Chen, W. (Helmholtz-Zentrum Geesthacht - Zentrum für Material- und Küstenforschung GmbH); Li, J. F. (East China Normal University; Institute of Eco-Chongming (IEC)); Jiang, Y. H. (China Geological Survey); Hu, X. (Shanghai Chengtou Group Corporation); Zhang, X. L. (Shanghai Municipal Planning and Natural Resources Bureau); Zhou, F. N. (Changjiang Water Resources Commission); Hu, F. X. (East China Normal University); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2022","The estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) in the Yangtze Estuary Delta (YED) is muddy by definition and lacks bottom undulations. However, since 2013, a remarkable change has occurred in the YED. Recent images detected by a multibeam echosounder system, SeaBat 7125, for the first time have confirmed widespread regions of subaqueous dunes in the Yangtze ETM channel. This abnormal change is the result of morphodynamic transformation from the combination of an abrupt decline in sediment supply resulting from the construction of the Three Gorges Dam (TGD) and hydrodynamic changes caused by sea level rise. The latter includes anthropogenic-induced sea level rises (from land subsidence and coastal engineering) of 7–37 cm and a climate-induced sea level rise of 8 cm during the past four decades. Obvious evidence of hydrodynamic changes includes tidal amplification, i.e., a 10–28 cm rise in the tidal range, 42–65 cm rise in the lowest tidal level in the dry season, 45–67 cm rise in the highest tidal level in the flood season and 10–30% increase in the amplitude of the major tidal component. These findings will likely have global implications in formulating strategies to combat the superimposed effects of human interventions and climate change on upstream river and downstream coastal developments.","estuarine turbidity maxima; sea level rise; subaqueous dunes; tidal amplification; Yangtze Estuary","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:c915fe68-a425-4e6a-ae6f-9cb4846f9993","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c915fe68-a425-4e6a-ae6f-9cb4846f9993","Managing mangroves and coastal land cover in the Mekong Delta","Phan, M.H. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2022","Mangroves play an important role in sustaining a healthy coastal environment, providing a natural habitat to various species, a stable shoreline and forestry products. However, the extent of mangroves developed along the tidal coast of the Mekong delta in southern Vietnam has faced and still faces the impact from both natural and anthropogenic drivers. Since the area of mangroves in the coastal Mekong delta is not well documented, this study aims to quantitatively document the evolution of the mangrove area over the past 48 years, i.e. between 1973 and 2020. Satellite Landsat images, along with a classification method comprising Iso Cluster and Maximum Likelihood algorithms, have been used for mapping land cover types including mangroves, aquaculture, soils, plants and water surfaces along the coastal districts of the Mekong delta. The study shows that remote sensing and GIS techniques can be applied to obtain mapping of the land cover, as well as detect and analyse spatial and temporal changes caused by e.g. coastal erosion or aquaculture expansion. The findings reveal that the total mangrove area of an estimated 185,800 ha in 1973 decreased significantly to 102,160 ha in 2020. Approximately 2150 ha/yr of the total mangrove loss over 1973–2020 was due to invasion by aquaculture, while roughly 430 ha/yr was lost due to coastal erosion. A slight increase in mangrove area occurred since 2010 as a result of the implementation of a series of projects to protect against coastal erosion and to restore mangroves by the Vietnamese government and international non-governmental and governmental organizations, although the success rates of mangrove restoration are relatively low. The survival of mangrove forests in the Mekong delta is related to the main pressure drivers: pollution, land use conversion, insufficient sediment sources, coastal erosion and coastal mangrove squeeze. Therefore, an integrated mangroves and shrimp farming model is one of the most appropriate approaches to achieve a beneficial balance between both aquaculture and mangroves.","Aquaculture; Land-cover; Mangroves; Mekong delta; Remote sensing","en","journal article","","","","","","Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository ‘You share, we take care!’ – Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.","","2022-08-31","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:e2bbac2c-881a-42d8-8b8b-bafb7924bdeb","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e2bbac2c-881a-42d8-8b8b-bafb7924bdeb","Erosion Behavior of Sand-Silt Mixtures: Revisiting the Erosion Threshold","Yao, Peng (Hohai University; Dalian University); Su, Min (Hohai University; Shanghai Estuarine and Coastal Science Research Center); Wang, Zhengbing (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Deltares); van Rijn, Leo C. (LVRS Consultancy); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Xu, Chunyang (Hohai University); Chen, Yongping (Hohai University)","","2022","The erosion threshold, beyond which bed sediments start to move, is a key parameter describing sediment transport processes. For silt-dominated mixtures, in which the grain size is between sand and clay, existing experimental studies exhibit contradictory observations. That is, the erosion was either sand-like or clay-like, suggesting transitional erosion behavior. To explore the underlying mechanism of the transitional erosion behavior of silt-sized sediment, we revisited the topic of the erosion threshold of sand-silt mixtures by carrying out a series of erosion experiments for different bed compositions. The results suggest that there exists a critical silt content of approximately 35%, separating two domains. Below this critical value, the critical bed shear stress follows the Shields criterion, whereas above this value, the erosion threshold of a mixed bed increases abruptly and remains relatively constant with a further increase in silt content. By combining with existing data, we found that the proposed critical silt content acts as a tipping point, beyond which the mixed bed shifts from a sand-dominated to a silt-dominated domain. For the silt-dominated domain, a stable silt skeleton can be formed by attraction forces that resist erosion. However, the attraction forces are too weak to form a stable silt skeleton when the silt content is too small. Based on this finding, a modified critical bed shear stress formula is proposed for silt-dominated mixtures, which results in a better agreement with experimental data (an averaged bias of 10%), performing better than existing formulas (larger than 30%).","critical bed shear stress; erosion threshold; flume experiment; sand-silt mixtures; silt content","en","journal article","","","","","","Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository 'You share, we take care!' - Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.","","2023-03-06","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:853cefaf-a0a5-46e7-81d5-295f11f9d374","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:853cefaf-a0a5-46e7-81d5-295f11f9d374","Design Considerations for Brushwood Fences Concerning Bathymetry and Fence Locations","Dào, H.T. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Hanoi University of Natural Resources and Environment, Hanoi); Hofland, Bas (TU Delft Hydraulic Structures and Flood Risk); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Mai, Tri (Hanoi University of Civil Engineering); Ngo, Anh (Thuyloi University)","Huynh, Dat Vu (editor); Tang, Anh Minh (editor); Doan, Dinh Hong (editor); Watson, Phil (editor)","2022","Wooden fences are nature-based supporting structures to restore mangroves in the Mekong Delta. The hydraulic functioning of wooden fences was studied in previous studies. However, the role of bathymetry in the dissipation and damping of waves by wooden fences has not been studied yet. Thus, in this study, a numerical approach is used to find the effect of the position of fences and the foreshore bathymetry, including two particular slopes of 1/200 and 1/500, on wave damping due to wooden fences. The results show that the bottom slope significantly influences the dissipation of incoming waves, the so-called pre-dissipation, before damping by the wooden fences. Differences in pre-dissipation occur between fence locations along the cross-shore slopes. The higher pre-dissipation takes place for wooden fences closer to the land, as the depth-limited wave height at the fence reduces. The efficiency in wave damping of wooden fences is also increasing as the freeboard is becoming larger for the fence located closer landward.","Bottom slope; Fence locations; Numerical model; SWASH; Wooden fences","en","conference paper","Springer","","","","","Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository 'You share, we take care!' - Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.","","2022-07-01","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:ba340419-22bd-4d32-9527-e28984b845be","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:ba340419-22bd-4d32-9527-e28984b845be","Nature-based solutions for coastal engineering and management","Slinger, J (TU Delft Policy Analysis; Rhodes University); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Luijendijk, Arjen (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Deltares)","","2021","","","en","contribution to periodical","","","","","","","","","","","Policy Analysis","","",""
"uuid:53f8ab79-2630-4009-9be9-850e0dc320cb","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:53f8ab79-2630-4009-9be9-850e0dc320cb","Laboratory data on wave propagation through vegetation with following and opposing currents","Hu, Zhan (Sun Yat-sen University; Ministry of Education Hangzhou; Guangdong Provincial Key Laboratory of Marine Resources and Coastal Engineering); Lian, Simei (Sun Yat-sen University; Ministry of Education Hangzhou; State Oceanic Administration China); Wei, Huaiyu (Sun Yat-sen University; The Hong Kong University of Science and Technology); Li, Yulong (Technology Centre for Offshore and Marine); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Suzuki, T. (TU Delft Environmental Fluid Mechanics; Flanders Hydraulics Research)","","2021","Coastal vegetation has been increasingly recognized as an effective buffer against wind waves. Recent laboratory studies have considered realistic vegetation traits and hydrodynamic conditions, which advanced our understanding of the wave dissipation process in vegetation (WDV) in field conditions. In intertidal environments, waves commonly propagate into vegetation fields with underlying tidal currents, which may alter the WDV process. A number of experiments addressed WDV with following currents, but relatively few experiments have been conducted to assess WDV with opposing currents. Additionally, while the vegetation drag coefficient is a key factor influencing WDV, it is rarely reported for combined wave-current flows. Relevant WDV and drag coefficient data are not openly available for theory or model development. This paper reports a unique dataset of two flume experiments. Both experiments use stiff rods to mimic mangrove canopies. The first experiment assessed WDV and drag coefficients with and without following currents, whereas the second experiment included complementary tests with opposing currents. These two experiments included 668 tests covering various settings of water depth, wave height, wave period, current velocity and vegetation density. A variety of data, including wave height, drag coefficient, in-canopy velocity and acting force on mimic vegetation stem, are recorded. This dataset is expected to assist future theoretical advancement on WDV, which may ultimately lead to a more accurate prediction of wave dissipation capacity of natural coastal wetlands. The dataset is available from figshare with clear instructions for reuse (10.6084/m9.figshare.13026530.v2, Hu et al., 2020). The current dataset will expand with additional WDV data from ongoing and planned observation in natural mangrove wetlands.","","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:aa6c207f-1731-42dc-bca1-ce2516fce7af","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:aa6c207f-1731-42dc-bca1-ce2516fce7af","Numerical and small-scale physical modelling of wave transmission by wooden fences","Dào, H.T. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Hofland, Bas (TU Delft Hydraulic Structures and Flood Risk); Suzuki, Tomohiro (Flanders Hydraulics Research); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Mai, Tri (National University of Civil Engineering); Tuan, Le Xuan (Vietnam National University)","","2021","Mangrove forests, that often act as natural coastal defences, enormously suffered due to ongoing climate change and human disturbances. Thus, it is necessary to have a countermeasure to mitigate the loss of mangroves. Wooden fences are becoming a viable nature-based solution to protect vulnerable replanted mangrove forests. However, the wooden fence's hydraulic characteristics are not yet fully understood due to the complication of branches arrangement. In the present study, a small-scale wave flume modelling of wave damping by a wooden fence was constructed using the inner branches as an inhomogeneous arrangement tested in earlier flow-resistance experiments. The physical model results indicate that the wooden fence is highly effective on wave transmission and that the effectiveness in wave reduction depends on the relative fence thickness, B/Hi. To understand the scale effect on wave transmission further, the numerical model SWASH was used with the laboratory wave data. By applying the prior experiments' drag coefficient on steady flow, the uncalibrated numerical model gave a good agreement with the wave model results, with a root-mean-square error for the total transmitted wave heights of 4.7%. After validation, potential scale effects for small scale tests were determined from scaling simulations at both full scales and the applied 1:5 model scale. These simulations were performed for a fence porosity of 0.81, and different fence thicknesses to understand scale effects between model- and full-scale. Both wave reflection and transmission at model-scale are about 5% higher than full-scale results due to the increased drag coefficient and viscous effects. The effects of fence thickness and porosity were the same in large and small scale, and much larger than the error due to scale effects. Hence testing fence efficiency at physical small scale is regarded as a useful tool, together with numerical modelling.","Nature-based solution; Mekong Delta; Physical modelling; SWASH; numerical modelling; wave damping; Brushwood fence","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:fc23b78b-1f57-449d-9158-49b8e6bf1d53","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:fc23b78b-1f57-449d-9158-49b8e6bf1d53","Coastal Dynamics","Bosboom, J. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2021","This textbook on Coastal Dynamics focuses on the interrelation between physical wave, flow and sediment transport phenomena and the resulting morphodynamics of a wide variety of coastal systems. The textbook is unique in that it explicitly connects the dynamics of open coasts and tidal basins; not only is the interaction between open coasts and tidal basins of basic importance for the evolution of most coastal systems, but describing the similarities between their physical processes is highly instructive as well. This textbook emphasizes these similarities to the benefit of understanding shared processes such as nonlinearities in flow and sediment transport. Some prior knowledge with respect to the dynamics of flow, waves and sediment transport is recommended.","coasts; tidal basins; waves; tides; sediment","en","book","TU Delft OPEN","978-94-6366-370-0","","","","TU Delft OPEN Textbook","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:37830d0a-347b-4b17-a84e-d5c2171a65f3","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:37830d0a-347b-4b17-a84e-d5c2171a65f3","Aggregated morphodynamic modelling of tidal inlets and estuaries","Wang, Zhengbing (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Hohai University; Deltares); Townend, Ian (University of Southampton; Hohai University); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Hohai University)","","2020","Aggregation is used to represent the real world in a model at an appropriate level of abstraction. We used the convection-diffusion equation to
examine the implications of aggregation progressing from a three-dimensional (3D) spatial description to a model representing a system as a
single box that exchanges sediment with the adjacent environment. We highlight how all models depend on some forms of parametric closure,
which need to be chosen to suit the scale of aggregation adopted in the model. All such models are therefore aggregated and make use of some
empirical relationships to deal with sub-scale processes. One such appropriately aggregated model, the model for the aggregated scale
morphological interaction between tidal basin and adjacent coast (ASMITA), is examined in more detail and used to illustrate the insight that this
level of aggregation can bring to a problem by considering how tidal inlets and estuaries are impacted by sea level rise.","Aggregation; Morphodynamic modelling; Sea level rise; Sediment transport; Temporal and spatial scales; Tidal inlet and estuary","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:2d312d8b-75c2-4e86-86b0-f7f92ae89471","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2d312d8b-75c2-4e86-86b0-f7f92ae89471","Optimal sediment transport for morphodynamic model validation","Bosboom, J. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Mol, M. (MIcompany); Reniers, A.J.H.M. (TU Delft Environmental Fluid Mechanics); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); de Valk, C. F. (Royal Netherlands Meteorological Institute (KNMI))","","2020","Although commonly used for the validation of morphological predictions, point-wise accuracy metrics, such as the root-mean-squared error (RMSE), are not well suited to demonstrate the quality of a high-variability prediction; in the presence of (often inevitable) location errors, the comparison of depth values per grid point tends to favour predictions that underestimate variability. In order to overcome this limitation, this paper presents a novel diagnostic tool that defines the distance between predicted and observed morphological fields in terms of an optimal sediment transport field, which moves the misplaced sediment from the predicted to the observed morphology. This optimal corrective transport field has the “cheapest” quadratic transportation cost and is relatively easily found through a parameter-free and symmetric solution procedure solving an elliptic partial differential equation. Our method, which we named effective transport difference (ETD), is a variation to a partial differential equation approach to the Monge–Kantorovich L2 optimal transport problem. As a new error metric, we propose the root-mean-squared transport error (RMSTE) as the root-mean-squared value of the optimal transport field. We illustrate the advantages of the RMSTE for simple 1D and 2D cases as well as for more realistic morphological fields, generated with Delft3D, for an idealized case of a tidal inlet developing from an initially highly schematized geometry. The results show that by accounting for the spatial structure of morphological fields, the RMSTE, as opposed to the RMSE, is able to discriminate between predictions that differ in the misplacement distance of predicted morphological features, and avoids the consistent favouring of the underprediction of morphological variability that the RMSE is prone to.","Effective transport difference; Model accuracy; Model validation; Monge–Kantorovich; Morphodynamic modelling; Optimal transport; Root-mean-squared error; Root-mean-squared transport error","en","journal article","","","","","","Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository ‘You share, we take care!’ – Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.","","2020-08-06","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:f13f6716-9512-4be3-9c72-46003926ef87","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:f13f6716-9512-4be3-9c72-46003926ef87","Wind effects on the water age in a large shallow lake","Liu, S. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Ye, Qinghua (Student TU Delft; Deltares); Wu, Shiqiang (Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2020","As the third largest fresh water lake in China, Taihu Lake is suffering from serious eutrophication, where nutrient loading from tributary and surrounding river networks is one of the main contributors. In this study, water age is used to investigate the impacts of tributary discharge and wind influence on nutrient status in Taihu Lake, quantitatively. On the base of sub-basins of upstream catchments and boundary conditions of the lake, multiple inflow tributaries are categorized into three groups. For each group, the water age has been computed accordingly. A well-calibrated and validated three-dimensional Delft3D model is used to investigate both spatial and temporal heterogeneity of water age. Changes in wind direction lead to changes in both the average value and spatial pattern of water age, while the impact of wind speed differs in each tributary group. Water age decreases with higher inflow discharge from tributaries; however, discharge effects are less significant than that of wind. Wind speed decline, such as that induced by climate change, has negative effects on both internal and external nutrient source release, and results in water quality deterioration. Water age is proved to be an effective indicator of water exchange efficiency, which may help decision-makers to carry out integrated water management at a complex basin scale.","Delft3D; Meteorological influence; Shallow lake; Sub-basins; Water age","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:1c3535ac-3e37-471a-a0d8-efe432300b4a","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:1c3535ac-3e37-471a-a0d8-efe432300b4a","Wave overtopping discharge for very gently sloping foreshores","Nguyên, Hà (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; National University of Civil Engineering); Hofland, Bas (TU Delft Hydraulic Structures and Flood Risk); Chinh, Vu Dan (National University of Civil Engineering); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2020","The spectral wave period Tm-1,0 at the toe of sea-dikes is a crucial parameter to predict wave overtopping discharge over sea-dikes. It is known from literature that this period quickly increases when waves reach shallow foreshores; however, sometimes the assumption is made that the wave period remains constant from offshore to near-shore, leading to an underestimation of the near-shore wave period. Several formulae have been proposed to resolve the underestimation of wave overtopping discharges for very shallow foreshores. These corrective formulations confirm the tendency of underestimating the overtopping discharges over a very gently sloping foreshore but are not validated for foreshore slopes gentler than 1:500. The ""equivalent slope"" method based on a recent study is inappropriate for these very gently sloping foreshores due to the breaker parameter being much smaller than seven. This study proposes an extension of the correction and finds that spectral wave periods can reach values two times those offshore.","(Very) shallow foreshore; LF waves; SWAN; SWASH; T; Very gentle foreshore; Wave overtopping","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:9ce542e1-b79e-435a-b964-ce87290c5e50","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:9ce542e1-b79e-435a-b964-ce87290c5e50","Addressing the challenges of climate change risks and adaptation in coastal areas: A review","Toimil, Alexandra (University of Cantabria); Losada, Iñigo J. (University of Cantabria); Nicholls, Robert J. (University of Southampton); Dalrymple, Robert A. (Northwestern University); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2020","Climate change is and will continue altering the world's coasts, which are the most densely populated and economically active areas on earth and home for highly valuable ecosystems. While there is considerable relevant research, in the authors' experience this problem remains challenging for coastal engineering. This paper reviews important challenges in this respect and identifies three key actions to address them: (a) refocusing traditional practice towards more climate-aware approaches; (b) developing more comprehensive risk frameworks that include the multi-dimensionality and non-stationarity of their components and consideration of uncertainty; and (c) building bridges between risk assessment and adaptation theory and practice. We conclude that the way forward includes numerous activities including increased observations; the attribution of coastal impacts to their drivers; enhanced climate projections and their integration into impact models; more impact assessments at the local scale; dynamic projections of spatially-distributed exposure and vulnerability; and the exploration of inherently adaptive options. Given the complexity of the possible solutions, more practical guidance is required.","Adaptation; Climate change; Coastal engineering; Non-stationarity; Risk; Uncertainty","en","review","","","","","","Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository ‘You share, we take care!’ – Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.","","2020-05-25","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:9dad0363-d170-47d6-9704-3adfe5e1573a","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:9dad0363-d170-47d6-9704-3adfe5e1573a","Experimental assessment of the flow resistance of coastal wooden fences","Dào, H.T. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Hanoi University); Hofland, Bas (TU Delft Hydraulic Structures and Flood Risk); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Mai, Tri (National University of Civil Engineering)","","2020","Wooden fences are applied as a nature-based solution to support mangrove restoration along mangrove coasts in general and the Mekong Delta coast in particular. The simple structure uses vertical bamboo poles as a frame to store horizontal bamboo and tree branches (brushwood). Fence resistance is quantitatively determined by the drag coefficient exerted by the fence material on the flow; however, the behaviour of drag is predictable only when the arrangement of the cylinders is homogeneous. Therefore, for more arbitrary arrangements, the Darcy-Forchheimer equations need to be considered. In this study, the law of fluid flow was applied by forcing a constant flow of water through the fence material and measuring the loss of hydraulic pressure over a fence thickness. Fences, mainly using bamboo sticks, were installed with model-scale and full-scale diameters applying two main arrangements, inhomogeneous and staggered. Our empirical findings led to several conclusions. The bulk drag coefficient (CD) is influenced by the flow regime represented by Reynolds number. The drag coefficient decreases with the increase of the porosity, which strongly depends on fence arrangements. Finally, the Forchheimer coefficients can be linked to the drag coefficient through a related porosity parameter at high turbulent conditions. The staggered arrangement is well-predicted by the Ergun-relations for the Darcy-Forchheimer coefficients when an inhomogeneous arrangement with equal porosity and diameter leads to a large drag and flow resistance.","Coastal engineering; Hydraulic gradient; Mekong Delta; Nature-based solutions; Physical experiments; Porous structures","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:2d164bd1-a95c-4eeb-a0b7-a22a03601652","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2d164bd1-a95c-4eeb-a0b7-a22a03601652","Dynamics of a Tidal Current System in a Marginal Sea: A Case Study of the Yellow Sea, China","Zhang, Qian (Hohai University); Su, Min (Hohai University); Yao, Peng (Hohai University); Chen, Yongping (Hohai University); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Wang, Zhengbing (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Deltares)","","2020","Tidal currents belong to the main driving forces shaping the bathymetry of marginal seas. A globally unique radial sand ridge field exists in the South Yellow Sea off the central Jiangsu coast, China. Its formation is related to the distinctive “radial tidal current” pattern at that location. A generally accepted hypothesis is that the “radial tidal current” is a consequence of the interference between the northern amphidromic tidal wave system and the southern incoming tidal wave. In this study, a schematized numerical tidal model was designed to investigate the tidal current system and the factors of influence in the South Yellow Sea. Concepts of the tidal current amphidromic point (CAP) and the tidal current inclination angle are utilized to analyze the inherent structure of the tidal current system. By conducting a series of numerical experiments, it is found that the Poincaré modes are necessary for the existence of “radial tidal current,” and the e-folding decay length should be smaller than the basin length. In the Yellow Sea, cross-basin phase differences due to lateral depth differences as well as open boundary conditions favor the emergence of the “radial tidal current.” Further analyses indicate that the CAP system (i.e., the co-inclination lines, the CAPs, and the tidal ellipticity) deepens the understanding on the dynamic structure of a tidal current system, and therefore, it deserves more attention in future studies.","basin geometry; lateral depth difference; radial tidal current; south yellow sea; tidal current amphidromic points (CAPs); tidal current system","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:e6300108-a64a-498b-9788-1e1996c0b888","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e6300108-a64a-498b-9788-1e1996c0b888","Hydrodynamics and Sediment Transport at a Seasonal Inlet and Its Adjacent Beach: Cua Dai, Vietnam","Do, T.K.A. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; The University of Da Nang); de Vries, S. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Ye, Qinghua (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Deltares); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Nguyen, Trung Viet (Thuy Loi University)","Dan Nguyen, Kim (editor); Guillou, Sylvain (editor); Gourbesville, Philippe (editor); Thiébot, Jérôme (editor)","2020","Cua Dai inlet is a typical microtidal, mixed energy-wave dominated inlet in a tropical monsoon regime in central Vietnam. Both the river flow regime and coastal processes such as induced by waves and tides influence Cua Dai Inlet and its adjacent coasts. Cua Dai Beach, the northern adjacent coast of Cua Dai inlet, has experienced severe erosion since 1995 due to an apparent non-periodic cyclic process, a decrease of sediment supply from the river, estuary and squeeze by coastal developments (Do et al. in J Coast Res 34(1):6–25, 2018). The inlet channel has shifted from North to South which served as an important controlling mechanism for the creation of a new ebb shoal. However, the role of the ebb-tidal delta in relation to the channel shifting and seasonal varying hydrodynamic conditions (river discharge and wave climate) remains poorly understood. Most studies have only considered the impact of waves and tides on the development of the ebb tidal delta. No study has included the impact of a varying river discharge on ebb shoal development and inlet migration. This chapter investigates the seasonal varying hydrodynamics and sediment transport of the inlet and adjacent coasts due to the seasonal varying river discharge and wave climate. The 2DH process-based morphodynamic numerical model (Delft3D) is applied using schematized wave conditions and river discharge. Six simulations with varying dominant wave conditions for the winter and for the summer are executed in combination with varying river discharge classes that corresponding to the dry, wet and flood seasons. There exists an East North East monsoon with a flood season from September to December, an East North East monsoon with a wet season from January to March, and a dry bidirectional South East/East North East monsoon from April to August. We investigate the effect of the seasonal wave climate and seasonal river discharges at Cua Dai inlet by analyzing the effects on the resulting hydrodynamics, sediment transports and potential morphological changes through the inlet and at the adjacent coasts. Primary results indicate that the seasonal variation in the wave climate has a strong influence on the sediment transport patterns in the adjacent coasts. The variation in the river flow dominates the magnitude of sediment transport through the inlet. The results of the simulations show that the inlet generally imports sediment into the estuary except in the case of the flood season. During the flood season the estimated sediment export is significant. Interestingly, the wave direction that varies during summer also influences the magnitude of sediment import into the estuary. Waves coming from the ENE contributes to larger sediment import than waves coming from the SE.","Hydrodynamics; Seasonal inlet; Seasonal river discharge; Seasonal waves; Sediment transport","en","book chapter","Springer","","","","","Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository 'You share, we take care!' - Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.","","2020-08-29","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:eba25062-2897-4c19-b006-845cfc49ea21","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:eba25062-2897-4c19-b006-845cfc49ea21","Morphodynamics of a seasonal inlet: A case study using remote sensing and numerical modelling for cua dai inlet, central vietnam","Do, T.K.A. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; The University of Da Nang); Kralli, Vasiliki E. (Student TU Delft); de Vries, S. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Nguyen, Viet T. (Thuyloi University); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","Viet, Nguyen Trung (editor); Tung, Tran Thanh (editor); Xiping, Dou (editor)","2020","Cua Dai Beach located adjacent to Cua Dai Inlet is a typical, seasonally varying tidal inlet. This famous beach has suffered extreme erosion since 1995 due to an apparent irregular-periodic process, a decrease of sediment supply from the river and its estuaries and increased squeeze by coastal developments. The main objective of this study is to unravel the physical processes that control the morphological development of Cua Dai Inlet while challenged by the fact that it is a data-limited environment. In order to identify and quantify the main processes governing the evolution of Cua Dai Beach and thereby aiming to explain the morphological changes and extreme erosion in recent years, a new approach was developed. Historical shoreline positions and sediment budget changes were derived from satellite images using empirical engineering assumptions. In addition, numerical models were used to investigate in detail sediment transports and morphodynamics under the influence of seasonal waves and rivers as well as the anthropogenically-driven impacts. Results of shoreline change rates indicate that Cua Dai Beach (located on the northern side of Cua Dai inlet) experienced an average erosion of 12m/y during the period from 2000 to 2010 and erosion continued further to the north while the southern coast of the inlet accreted with a mean rate of 11m/y. The overall system showed a significant sediment loss of about 243,000–310,000 m3/y. The annual cycle of two past morphological periods has been numerically simulated to evaluate the behavior of the system without and with human interventions. The first morphological simulation without the impact of the resorts successfully reproduced an overall erosion trend at the northern coast while the formation of an ebb tidal bar was also reproduced. The second morphological simulation reproduced the impact of the resorts that have been constructed along Cua Dai Beach. Simulations indicate that the presence of the resorts has enhanced the propagation of the existing erosion further to the north. The new approach of remote sensing combined with process-based modeling has been essential to investigate the main processes that govern the morphological changes and extreme erosion at Cua Dai inlet.","Coastal squeeze; Cua Dai Beach; Cua Dai Inlet; Seasonal inlet","en","conference paper","Springer","","","","","Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository ‘You share, we take care!’ – Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.","","2022-05-11","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:23f46dcc-c06f-4e6d-9f67-c9b77d67060e","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:23f46dcc-c06f-4e6d-9f67-c9b77d67060e","Innovative Vietnamese Research on Mekong Deltaic Coastal Processes","Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Phan, L. K. (Thuyloi University); Truong, S. T. (Thuyloi University); Phan, H. M. (Vietnam Academy for Water resources); Dao, H. T. (Hanoi University)","Viet, Nguyen Trung (editor); Tung, Tran Thanh (editor); Xiping, Dou (editor)","2020","Over the last few decades, the Mekong Delta Coast has undergone many physical changes that have increased its vulnerability. Issues that have grown in importance are erosion, human occupation of coastal and estuarine mangroves, decreased sediment supply by the Mekong River and subsidence due to groundwater extraction. These issues have led to the loss of coastal and estuarine land and mangroves, increasing flood vulnerability and salinity intrusion. Recently, young and promising Vietnamese researchers have undertaken a number of in-depth studies to increase our understanding of the above issues. The objective of the present paper is to give a concise description of their work and place it into a broader context. The topics concerned are satellite mapping of coastal landuse changes, numerical simulation of the tide and wave climate and of coastal erosion, coastal and estuarine mangrove squeeze, wave and current damping in mangroves and wave transmission through bamboo fences. The main findings are that (1) coastal landuse has changed significantly over the last decades with the largest change due to conversion of mangroves to aquaculture and a modest change due to coastal erosion, (2) the understanding of the tide and wave climate and of the erosion has increased due to successful numerical modelling, (3) the role of mangrove squeeze along the coast and along the estuaries has been assessed, (4) the understanding of wave and current damping in mangroves and of wave transmission through bamboo fences has increased through the combined effort of laboratory and numerical modelling.","Coastal land-use change; Mangrove erosion; Mangrove squeeze; Mekong Deltaic Coast; Tide modelling; Wave modelling; Wave transmission","en","conference paper","Springer","","","","","Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository ‘You share, we take care!’ – Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.","","2022-05-11","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:9b6b35d0-a86d-41b6-acf7-e6cd01d34a99","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:9b6b35d0-a86d-41b6-acf7-e6cd01d34a99","Tidal Wave Propagation in the Flat Basin Under Wind Monsoon Climate","Phan, M.H. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Reniers, A.J.H.M. (TU Delft Environmental Fluid Mechanics); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Ye, Qinghua (Deltares)","Nguyen, Kim Dan (editor); Guillou, Sylvain (editor); Gourbesville, Philippe (editor); Thiébot, Jérôme (editor)","2020","Tide is influenced due to not only mainly tide generating force but also local wind and weather patterns. The East Asian monsoons cause strong seasonal climatic variations in the Mekong Delta. A two-dimensional, barotropic numerical model was employed to investigate the dynamics of tidal wave propagation in the South China Sea with a particular interest for its characteristics along the Mekong deltaic coast under wind monsoon climate. The results reveal that wind monsoon climate could causes damped or amplified tidal amplitudes around Mekong deltaic coast approximately 2–3 cm due to the changing atmospheric pressure, the tangential stress of wind over the water surface, and wind enhanced bottom friction. The monsoon climate influences rather strongly on the M2 semidiurnal tide system in the eastern Mekong deltaic coast, meanwhile the monsoon climate controls K1 diurnal tide in the western region of Mekong delta.","Delft3D; Mekong deltaic coast; Tidal wave propagation; Wind monsoon climate","en","book chapter","Springer","","","","","Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository 'You share, we take care!' - Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.","","2020-08-29","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:71431eb7-3a6d-4fd2-970f-8f5bbaf5cb64","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:71431eb7-3a6d-4fd2-970f-8f5bbaf5cb64","A Laboratory Study of the Shallow Flow Field in a Vegetated Compound Channel","Truong Hong, S. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Thuyloi University; Korea Institute of Civil Engineering and Building Technology); Phan, K.L. (Thuyloi University); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Uijttewaal, W.S.J. (TU Delft Environmental Fluid Mechanics)","Nguyen, Kim Dan (editor); Guillou, Sylvain (editor); Gourbesville, Philippe (editor); Thiébot, Jérôme (editor)","2020","The significant defensive role of vegetation in general and mangroves in particular for coastal and estuarine regions has been increasingly recognized. However, understanding the shallow flow field in and around the region of vegetation is still limited. In order to gain more insight, a laboratory experiment of a vegetated compound channel was conducted. The emerged circular cylinders are a representative model for the emergent mangrove forest. Scenarios of different widths and densities of vegetation were considered. Data acquired from Acoustic Doppler Velocimetry (ADV) and force sensors have been analysed. The influences of vegetation on the shallow flow field were clarified by comparing different scenarios with and without vegetation. Furthermore, the results confirm the presence of the large horizontal coherent structures (LHCSs). The large coherent structures formed in the mixing layer at the vegetation interface emerge, promoting the transverse momentum exchange toward the forests. The LHCSs has not only boosted flow penetration into the vegetated floodplain area but also strongly disturbed the flow inside the forest. As the LHCSs move, they cause the fluctuation of the force on the cylinders. The fluctuations are largest at the vegetation edge. Negative values of stream wise forces were also recorded.","Compound vegetated channel; Forces on vegetation; Laboratory study; Turbulent flow; Vegetation","en","book chapter","Springer","","","","","Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository 'You share, we take care!' - Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.","","2020-08-29","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:76709357-e030-48d3-87b3-465dcd2e86d2","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:76709357-e030-48d3-87b3-465dcd2e86d2","Numerical modelling of hydrodynamics of permeable pile groins using SWASH","Zhang, R. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2019","This paper focuses on a specific form of groins, Permeable Pile Groins (PPGs), consisting of a single or double rows of wooden piles. With only few experiments and simulations available to study the hydraulic functioning of PPGs, the correlation between the effectiveness and the characteristics of the groin system has yet to be fully understood. This paper presents the application of SWASH, a non-hydrostatic wave-flow model to simulate flow fields affected by PPGs. The SWASH model was calibrated to correctly reproduce longshore current fields in the laboratory. Then, introducing PPGs in the model, the simulation results are compared with available experimental measurements to investigate current-PPG interaction. The simulation results, which generally agree well with the measurements, show that PPGs hardly attenuate wave energy but considerably retard longshore currents within the groin fields. Rip currents are predicted to develop at both flank sides of each pile groin, due to local positive water level gradients toward the pile groins.","Longshore currents; Numerical modelling; Pile groins; SWASH","en","journal article","","","","","","Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository ‘You share, we take care!’ – Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.","","2020-03-18","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:388be3a7-9c12-444f-bcc4-220bdcce1ad7","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:388be3a7-9c12-444f-bcc4-220bdcce1ad7","A Morphodynamic Modeling Study on the Formation of the Large‐Scale Radial Sand Ridges in the Southern Yellow Sea","Tao, Jianfeng (Hohai University; Student TU Delft); Wang, Zhengbing (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Hohai University; Deltares); Zhou, Zeng (Hohai University; The University of Auckland); Xu, Fan (Hohai University; The University of Auckland; East China Normal University); Zhang, Changkuan (Hohai University); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2019","The radial sand ridges (denoted as “RSRs” hereafter) in the Southern Yellow Sea, China, are morphologically striking because of the remarkable size and radial planar orientation, standing out as a unique coastal geomorphology among the worldwide sand ridge systems. The formation of this giant fan‐shaped geomorphic feature requires delicate conditions and awaits in‐depth investigation. Using an idealized morphodynamic model, this study unravels the governing factors for the formation of the unique large‐scale RSRs, in comparison with other types of sand ridge systems over the world. The effects of the M2 tidal constituent, the Coriolisforcing, the bed resistance, and the initial water depths on the morphodynamic behavior of the RSRs are explored. Numerical results indicate that the tidal regime, characterized by rotational and progressive current action associated with the tidal bulge, is dependent on the eastern coastline of China as well as latitudinal effects. Through the comparison between the simulated and the measured morphology, this tidal regime is demonstrated to be the key driverin forming and maintaining the present‐day RSRs. The runs with different parameters further suggest that the asymmetric pattern of the RSRs, which shows larger northern sand ridges than the southern ones, results from both the asymmetric distribution of current activity caused by the tidal bulge and unequal sediment supply. Overall, this study highlights the delicate condition, predominantly represented by the particular currents set up by the tidal wave system and the sediment supply, required to shape the striking large‐scale RSRs in the Southern Yellow Sea.","Jiangsu Coast; morphodynamic modeling; radial sand ridges; Southern Yellow Sea; tidal wave systems","en","journal article","","","","","","Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository ‘You share, we take care!’ – Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.","","2020-01-05","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:097fa0cc-74a0-4208-86aa-93bb30c3903c","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:097fa0cc-74a0-4208-86aa-93bb30c3903c","Exchange Processes Induced by Large Horizontal Coherent Structures in Floodplain Vegetated Channels","Truong Hong, S. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Thuy Loi University); Uijttewaal, W.S.J. (TU Delft Environmental Fluid Mechanics); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2019","Mangrove forests along the Mekong delta estuaries are usually observed to degrade together with the increasing extension of fish farms. In this limited-width condition, the formation of coherent structures, their interactions with mangroves, the role of the width of the mangrove forest, and their effects on the exchange processes between the open channel and the adjacent floodplain are still not well examined. In order to obtain more insight, a unique laboratory experiment of a vegetated compound channel mimicking estuarine mangroves has been conducted. The results show that in a compound vegetated channel with a very gentle transverse slope, the vegetated shear layer dynamics resembled that associated with vegetation rather than that associated with a depth differential. Furthermore, the flow field under the effect of large horizontal coherent structures (LHCSs) shows a spatially and temporally cycloid motion with associated flow events, namely, sweep, ejection, stagnant, and reverse flows. It is also suggested that the coherent structures can have an influence on a broader area than the vegetation area into which the eddy structures can penetrate. In terms of the exchange processes, the momentum transfer and the intensity of transverse fluctuations induced by the LHCSs can be related to this phenomenon. Consequently, decreasing the mangrove width can significantly affect the pattern of the LHCSs, disturb the transverse exchange processes induced by these structures, and thereby changing the shear layer, creating unfavorable conditions for sedimentation inside forests and for river bank stability.","","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:53fcf3c4-055d-4ae7-85e9-77e2949ca091","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:53fcf3c4-055d-4ae7-85e9-77e2949ca091","The Estimation and Evaluation of Shoreline Locations, Shoreline-Change Rates, and Coastal Volume Changes Derived from Landsat Images","Do, T.K.A. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; The University of Da Nang); de Vries, S. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2019","Shoreline-change data are of primary importance for understanding coastal erosion and deposition as well as for studying coastal morphodynamics. Shoreline extraction from satellite images has been used as a low-cost alternative and as an addition to traditional methods. In this work, satellite-derived shorelines and corresponding shoreline-change rates and changes in volumes of coastal sediments have been estimated and evaluated for the case of the data-rich North-Holland coast. This coast is globally unique for its long in situ monitoring record and provides a perfect case to evaluate the potential of shoreline mapping techniques. A total of 13 Landsat images and 233 observed cross-shore profiles (from the JAaRlijkse KUStmeting [JARKUS] database) between 1985 and 2010 have been used in this study. Satellite-derived shorelines are found to be biased in seaward direction relative to the JARKUS-derived shorelines, with an average ranging 8 m to 9 m over 25 years. Shoreline-change rates have been estimated using time series of satellite-derived shorelines and applying linear regression. The satellite-derived shoreline-change rates show a high correlation coefficient (R2> 0.78) when compared with the JARKUS-derived shoreline-change rates over a period of 20 and 25 years. Volume changes were calculated from the satellite-derived shoreline-change rates using assumptions defining a closure depth. Satellite-derived volume changes also show a good agreement with JARKUS-based values. Satellite-derived shorelines compare better with in situ data on beaches that have intertidal zone widths ranging from one- to two-pixel sizes (30 m-60 m). The results show that the use of Landsat images for deriving shorelines, shoreline-change rates, and volume changes have accuracies comparable to observed JARKUS-based values when considering decadal scales of measurements. This shows the potential of applying Landsat images to monitor shoreline change and coastal volume change over decades.","coastal volume changes; Landsat images; shoreline-change rate; shoreline-position uncertainty","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:db9ebf80-82bb-48b3-a686-0a1ff0be1eca","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:db9ebf80-82bb-48b3-a686-0a1ff0be1eca","The effects of wave non-linearity on wave attenuation by vegetation","Phan Khanh, L. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Zijlema, Marcel (TU Delft Environmental Fluid Mechanics); Truong, H.T.X. (TU Delft Structural Integrity & Composites; Thuy Loi University); Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2019","Wave attenuation through mangrove forests has received more and more attention, especially in the context of increasing coastal erosion and sea-level-rise. Numerous studies have focused on studying the reduction of wave height in a mangrove forest. However, the understanding of this attenuation process is still in its infancy. In order to obtain more insight, a laboratory experiment, mimicking the processes of wave attenuation by coastal mangroves in the Mekong Delta, Vietnam was conducted. The reduction of wave height for different scenarios of mangrove densities and wave conditions was investigated. A new method to quantify vegetation attenuation induced by vegetation is presented. The wave height reduction is presented over a relative length scale (viz. the number of wavelengths), instead of an absolute length scale of the forest (e.g per meter or per 100 m). The effects of wave non-linearity on the wave height attenuation over the mangrove forest were investigated using the Ursell number. It is suggested that the non-linear character of waves has a strong influence on the attenuation of the waves inside the mangrove forest. A numerical model, mimicking the experiment was constructed in SWASH and validated using the experimental data. Finally, the data set was extended through numerical modelling so that a larger ranging relationship between wave attenuation per wave length and the Ursell number could be formulated.","Numerical model; Physical model; Vegetation; Wave height attenuation; Wave non-linearity","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:cfd445c2-91aa-45da-8476-ec33544bd9d9","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:cfd445c2-91aa-45da-8476-ec33544bd9d9","Tidal wave propagation along The Mekong deltaic coast","Phan, M.H. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development); Ye, Qinghua (Deltares); Reniers, A.J.H.M. (TU Delft Environmental Fluid Mechanics); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2019","A two-dimensional, barotropic numerical model was employed to investigate the dynamics of tidal wave propagation in the South China Sea with a particular interest for its characteristics along the Mekong deltaic coast. The study indicates that tidal waves propagate from the Pacific Ocean into the South China Sea mainly through the Luzon Strait (LS), where the K 1 diurnal tide dominates due to a quarter wavelength resonance in this semi-enclosed basin, and that the incoming tidal waves from the Celebes open boundary play a more important role than those from the Andaman and Flores open boundaries. Previous studies have not explained why both adjacent seas including the South China Sea and the Gulf of Thailand are dominated by a diurnal tide, while a semidiurnal tide dominates along the eastern Mekong deltaic coast. By means of Green's law, continental shelf tidal resonance theory and standing wave theory, this study clarifies that the large amplified M 2 semidiurnal amplitude leading to a prevailing mixed semidiurnal tide is caused not only by the shoaling effect and the continental shelf oscillation resonance phenomenon but also by the position on the standing wave anti-node line. Moreover, the finding of radial tidal currents occurring along the southern Mekong estuarine coast has not been revealed in earlier studies. Based on a number of numerical, geometrically schematised experiments, we suggest that the interaction between the large amplified amplitude near the shoreline associated with the adjacent low amplitude band system, causing convex hydraulic gradients of tidal amplitude due to basin geometry as well as sloping topography, is the mechanism for developing these radial tidal current systems. The results reveal that wind monsoon climate could cause either damped or amplified tidal amplitudes around the Mekong deltaic coast of which approximately 2–3 cm is due to the changing atmospheric pressure, the tangential stress of wind over the water surface and wind enhanced bottom friction. Also, this study suggests that the tidal generating forces should be considered to achieve accurate model results depending on the geographical region of interest. Findings achieved from this study contribute to a deeper insight of tidal wave propagation from a deep ocean to a shallow flat basin similar to the South China Sea and its Mekong deltaic coast.","Mekong deltaic coast; Radial tidal currents; Resonance; Standing wave; Tidal wave propagation","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:f5692ae2-4f24-4519-82e0-afe81b3499f3","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:f5692ae2-4f24-4519-82e0-afe81b3499f3","Laboratory validation of SWASH longshore current modelling","Zhang, R. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Zijlema, Marcel (TU Delft Environmental Fluid Mechanics); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2018","In this paper, the ability of the numerical phase resolving model SWASH (Simulating WAves till SHore) to hindcast wave-induced longshore currents is evaluated. Using default settings for all processes modelled, highly accurate results are found for wave heights, mean water levels and longshore currents. While wave current interaction is intrinsically modelled, insights into the spatial variation of wave driven longshore currents are found. Additionally, vertical variations of modelled longshore currents have been compared. Depth uniform profiles of longshore current within surf zone are noted on plane beaches under regular waves, except for minor deviations near the shoreline. The apparent validity of a depth-uniform longshore current encourages the use of a depth-averaged moment balance equation to compute the longshore current. A simpler model is shown to also be able to predict a proper magnitude of longshore current, although the cross-shore distribution – in contrast with SWASH - needs tuning for the eddy viscosity and the bottom friction coefficient, since the distribution of the wave-induced longshore current heavily depends on lateral mixing.","longshore current; SWASH (Simulating WAves till SHore); Numerical modelling","en","journal article","","","","","","Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository ‘You share, we take care!’ – Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.","","2019-04-16","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:51d31925-842a-483b-bf22-fe60c9c7f239","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:51d31925-842a-483b-bf22-fe60c9c7f239","Modelling of bed sediment composition changes at the lower shoreface of the Sand Motor","Huisman, B.J.A. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Deltares); Ruessink, B. G. (Universiteit Utrecht); de Schipper, M.A. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Shore Monitoring & Research); Luijendijk, Arjen (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Deltares); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2018","Large perturbations in the coastline, such as the 'Sand Motor' nourishment (∼21 million m3) at the Holland coast, can initiate considerable spatial and temporal changes in the median grain size (D50) of the sea bed on the lower shoreface. The relevance of hydrodynamic conditions for the development of the heterogeneity in D50 at large-scale nourishments was assessed with a numerical model (Delft3D), which required a validation against 2.5 years of D50 measurements. A good representation of the observed spatial pattern of D50 was obtained independent of a 2DH or 3D approach and initial condition for the D50 of the bed. Five sediment size fractions and a multi-layer administration of the bed composition were used. The extent and magnitude of the coarsening of the bed is related to the velocity of the horizontal tide, while a far less pronounced coarsening takes place during energetic conditions (i.e. Hm0≥ 3 m). Differential suspension behaviour between the size fractions, which are all mobilized at the bed, causes a preferential transport of fine sediment (in alongshore direction) away from the Sand Motor at the lower shoreface (i.e. seaward of MSL -6 m). Storm conditions may induce a partial removal of the coarse top-layer due to mobilization of all of the size fractions and mixing with the relatively fine substrate material. Simulations also show that transport of the fine sand fraction extents to much deeper water than for the medium and coarse sand fractions. Models with multiple sediment fractions are therefore required for the assessment of environmental impacts of large-scale coastal structures or land reclamation's and sediment transport on the lower shoreface.","Bed sediment; Grain size; Nourishment; Numerical modelling; Sorting","en","journal article","","","","","","","","2019-11-23","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:549794c9-ff18-4bff-b8a5-6c41eaed5f21","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:549794c9-ff18-4bff-b8a5-6c41eaed5f21","Cross-shore stratified tidal flow seaward of a mega-nourishment","Meirelles, Saulo (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Henriquez, M. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Reniers, A.J.H.M. (TU Delft Environmental Fluid Mechanics); Luijendijk, Arjen (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Deltares); Pietrzak, J.D. (TU Delft Environmental Fluid Mechanics); Horner-Devine, Alexander R. (University of Washington); Souza, Alejandro J. (National Oceanography Center); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2018","The Sand Engine is a 21.5 million m3 experimental mega-nourishment project that was built in 2011 along the Dutch coast. This intervention created a discontinuity in the previous straight sandy coastline, altering the local hydrodynamics in a region that is influenced by the buoyant plume generated by the Rhine River. This work investigates the response of the cross-shore stratified tidal flow to the coastal protrusion created by the Sand Engine emplacement by using a 13 h velocity and density survey. Observations document the development of strong baroclinic-induced cross-shore exchange currents dictated by the intrusion of the river plume fronts as well as the classic tidal straining which are found to extend further into the nearshore (from 12 to 6m depth), otherwise believed to be a mixed zone. Estimates of the centrifugal acceleration directly after construction of the Sand Engine showed that the curvature effects were approximately 2 times stronger, suggesting that the Sand Engine might have played a role in controlling the cross-shore exchange currents during the first three years after the completion of the nourishment. Presently, the curvature effects are minute.","Baroclinic forcing; Centrifugal acceleration; Cross-shore exchange currents; Sand Engine","en","journal article","","","","","","","","2019-12-22","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:d1aa189a-faa1-45df-be8a-4f9f445d291e","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:d1aa189a-faa1-45df-be8a-4f9f445d291e","Horizontal Circulation Patterns in a Large Shallow Lake: Taihu Lake, China","Liu, S. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Ye, Qinghua (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Deltares); Wu, Shiqiang (Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2018","Wind induced hydrodynamic circulations play significant roles in the transport and mixing process of pollutants and nutrients in large shallow lakes, but they have been usually overlooked, while environmental, biological, and ecological aspects of eutrophication problems get the most focus. Herein we use a three-dimensional model, driven by steady/unsteady wind, river discharge, rainfall, evaporation to investigate the spatially heterogeneous, large-scale hydrodynamic circulations and their role in transporting and mixing mechanisms in Taihu Lake. Wind direction and velocity determines the overall hydrodynamic circulation structure, i.e. direction, intensity, and position. A relative stable hydrodynamic circulation pattern has been formed shortly with steady wind (~2 days). Vertical profiles of horizontal velocities are linearly correlated to the relative shallowness of water depth. Volume exchange between subbasins, influenced by wind speed and initial water level, differs due to the complex topography and irregular shape. With unsteady wind, these findings are still valid to a high degree. Vertical variations in hydrodynamic circulation are important in explaining the surface accumulation of algae scums in Meiliang Bay in summers. Vorticity of velocity field, a key indicator of hydrodynamic circulation, is determined by wind direction, bathymetry gradient, and water depth. The maximum change of velocity vorticity happens when wind direction is perpendicular to bathymetry gradient. Furthermore, Lagrangian-based tracer transport is used to estimate emergency pollution leakage impacts, and also to evaluate operational management measurements, such as, the large-scale water transfer. The conclusion is that the large-scale water transfer does not affect the hydrodynamic circulation and volume exchanges between subbasins significantly, but succeeds to transport and then mix the fresh, clean Yangtze River water to a majority area of Taihu Lake.","hydrodynamic circulation; large shallow lakes; vorticity of velocity; wind-induced current; Taihu Lake; OA-Fund TU Delft","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:764af36d-be50-40c2-9838-704d95b95250","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:764af36d-be50-40c2-9838-704d95b95250","Enhancing eco-engineering of coastal infrastructure with eco-design: Moving from mitigation to integration","Pioch, S. (CNRS/Université de Montpellier II); Relini, G. (dell'Ambiente e della Vita (DISTAV)); Souche, J. C. (INRA Institut National de La Recherche Agronomique); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); De Monbrison, D. (B.R.L. Ingénierie Co.); Nassif, S. (University of New York in Prague); Simard, F. (IUCN Global Marine and Polar Programme); Allemand, D. (Centre Scientifique de Monaco); Saussol, P. (IESE Business School); Spieler, R. (Nova Southeastern University); Kilfoyle, K. (Nova Southeastern University)","","2018","Eco-design aims to enhance eco-engineering practices of coastal infrastructure projects in support of ecological functions before these projects are developed and implemented. The principle is to integrate eco-engineering concepts in the early phases of project design. Although ecological losses are inherent in any construction project, the goal of eco-design is to introduce environmental considerations upfront during technical design choices, and not just afterwards when evaluating the need for reduction or compensatory mitigation. It seeks to reduce the negative impacts of marine infrastructure by introducing a new reflexive civil engineering approach. It requires a valuation of nature with the aim of reducing impacts by incorporating intelligent design and habitat-centered construction. The principle advocated in this paper is to design coastal infrastructures, at micro- to macro-biological scales, using a combination of fine and large scale physical and chemical modifications to hard substrates, within the scope of civil engineering requirements. To this end, we provide a brief introduction to the factors involved in concrete-biota interactions and propose several recommendations as a basis to integrate ecology into civil engineering projects, specifically addressed to concrete.","Coastal civil engineering; Eco-design; Eco-engineering; Ecological integration; Ecological restoration; Environmental impact assessment","en","journal article","","","","","","Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository ‘You share, we take care!’ – Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.","","2018-12-06","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:00387f74-f43c-484f-9c31-175148be7dcf","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:00387f74-f43c-484f-9c31-175148be7dcf","Modelling tidal-induced sediment transport in a sand-silt mixed environment from days to years: Application to the Jiangsu coastal water, China","Yao, P. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Sun Yat-sen University); Su, M. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Sun Yat-sen University); Wang, Zhengbing (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Deltares); van Rijn, L.C. (Leo van Rijn Sediment Consultancy); Zhang, Changkuan (Hohai University); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2018","In the present study a new multi-fractional, depth-averaged sediment transport module was developed and embedded into a morphodynamic model for a sand-silt mixed shallow water environment. Subsequently, the model was applied to the case of the Jiangsu coast, which features a silt enriched sedimentary environment bordered by two large-scale geomorphological units: the Old Yellow River Delta (OYRD) in the north and the Radial Sand Ridge Field (RSRF) in the south. Based on this case, the predictive abilities of the present model are
assessed on both the short-term and the long-term. Comparisons with measurements over two successive tidal cycles indicate that the present model produces very good results on short-time scales. The model performance is
extended and further validated by comparing the overall annual Suspended Sediment Concentration (SSC) pattern, the annual morphological changes, the annual sediment budget and the evolution trend of the bed composition. Also, these long-term results agree well with existing observations over the past several decades. Hence, an essential feature of the present modelling approach is the ability to simulate sediment transport and morphological changes over a relatively long time span (i.e., time scale of years) in a sand-silt mixed sedimentary environment, based on its validated short-term performance.","","en","journal article","","","","","","Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository ‘You share, we take care!’ – Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.","","2019-03-15","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:a16228b5-4242-468d-8231-980475d1f865","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:a16228b5-4242-468d-8231-980475d1f865","Beach Evolution Adjacent to a Seasonally Varying Tidal Inlet in Central Vietnam","Do, T.K.A. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); de Vries, S. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2018","Cua Dai Inlet is a typical, seasonally varying tidal inlet in central Vietnam. Since 1995 the northern adjacent coast, known as Cua Dai Beach, has experienced serious erosion. The decadal scale behavior of this inlet appears to reflect a nonperiodic cyclic process. Inlet channel shifting from north to south has welded the abandoned ebb-tidal delta with Cua Dai Beach, leading to accretion but subsequently triggering erosion. Although erosion of Cua Dai Beach was exacerbated by decrease of sediment supply from the estuary and ebb-tidal delta and by coastal developments, the channel shifting to the south, and the ebb shoal development were important primary controlling mechanisms. This study aims to quantify the main erosional processes in and near the Cua Dai coastal inlet and adjacent beaches since 1995. First, satellite data were used to detect shoreline change trends and to estimate volume changes. Second, alongshore, wave-driven sediment transports were estimated using numerical models. Observed shoreline changes indicate that, during the period from 2000 to 2010, erosion rates at the northern side of the inlet were on average 12 m/y. Close to the inlet, erosion rates were larger, up to 19 m/y. At the same time, the southern coast of the inlet was found to accrete with a mean rate of 11 m/y. Calculated alongshore sediment transport rates explain the observed erosion and accretion patterns. The overall system lost a significant sediment volume, which is estimated to amount to 243,000–310,000 m3/y. A logical conclusion is that the effects of the shifting of the inlet channel to the south caused erosion of the northern adjacent coast, whereas human interventions in the river catchment, the estuary, and along the coast contributed importantly to the overall sediment deficit of the inlet system and its beaches and to the shifting erosion pattern toward the north.","","en","journal article","","","","","","Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository ‘You share, we take care!’ – Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.","","2022-02-02","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:2792f07d-a8d9-4f16-a3dd-f0c60dc0ef27","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2792f07d-a8d9-4f16-a3dd-f0c60dc0ef27","Wave Damping due to Wooden Fences along Mangrove Coasts","Dào, H.T. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Hanoi University); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Hofland, Bas (TU Delft Hydraulic Structures and Flood Risk); Mai, Tri (National University of Civil Engineering)","","2018","Dao, T.; Stive, M.J.F.; Hofland, B., and Mai, T., 2018. Wave damping due to wooden fences along mangrove coasts. In the Mekong Delta, as in many other mangrove settings, wooden fences are considered beneficial coastal structures to provide sheltering for mangrove replantation efforts by reducing waves and currents and promoting sedimentation. One of the most quantitative previous studies on fence-induced wave reduction offered a first understanding of relevant process parameters. The present application of the advanced numerical time-domain wave model SWASH increases this understanding substantially and explains previously unexplained phenomena that were encountered in this earlier study. The findings reveal that wave damping increases with increasing fence thickness and with increasing density of the woody material in the fences. It further shows that the transmitted wave height (represented by the transmission coefficient) is inversely proportional to the Ursell number, implying that nonlinear waves are damped more effectively.","Coastal erosion; Mekong Delta; SWASH model","en","journal article","","","","","","Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository ‘You share, we take care!’ – Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.","","2019-05-01","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:114e6a7c-0e74-4d64-a031-210aa78c49e9","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:114e6a7c-0e74-4d64-a031-210aa78c49e9","Als de duinen breken: Once the Dunes Breach","Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2017","Uittree rede","Duinen; Zandige kust; Zandmotor; Afscheidsrede; Dunes; Sandy Coast; Sand Engine; Valedictory address","en","public lecture","","","","","","Afscheidsrede, Uitgesproken bij het afscheid van het ambt van hoogleraar Kustwaterbouwkunde aan de Technische Universiteit Delft","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:073519a2-5585-4fe7-9c7d-547e3fd7d39e","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:073519a2-5585-4fe7-9c7d-547e3fd7d39e","Exploratory morphodynamic hindcast of the evolution of the abandoned Yellow River delta, 1578-1855","Su, M. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Sun Yat-sen University; Guangdong Provincial Key Laboratory of Marine Resources and Coastal Engineering); Yao, P. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Sun Yat-sen University; Guangdong Provincial Key Laboratory of Marine Resources and Coastal Engineering); Wang, Zhengbing (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Deltares; Hohai University); Zhang, C.K. (Guangdong Provincial Key Laboratory of Marine Resources and Coastal Engineering); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2017","The Abandoned Yellow River Delta (AYD), which formed when the Yellow River flowed into the Southern Yellow Sea between 1128 and 1855 AD, is a representative example of the sensitivity of deltas to modifications in their environments. In this study, we established a process-based morphodynamic model to explore the morphological evolution of one such largescale fine-grained delta (the AYD before 1855). The uncertainties in the model settings, which are inevitable when historical data are insufficient, were assessed together with the corresponding influences on the evolution of the deltaic system by considering a series of scenarios. The results indicate that the strength of local tidal forcing is the key factor that determines the shape and evolutionary trend of the delta. Sediment input discharge and the slope of the initial coastal profile have a considerable effect on the overall size of the delta and the relative ratio between subaerial and subaqueous parts of the delta, respectively. Based on the evaluation of the uncertainties and a comparison with historical maps, the simulated AYD was evaluated to be reliable. Through an analysis of the temporal delta evolution and residual sediment transport, the morphological evolution of the AYD before 1855 AD was investigated. The southern delta grew as the shoals merged with the mainland, which is in agreement with an existing hypothesis (Zhang, 1984), whereas the accretion of the northern delta was independent from the shoals in the northern part. Additionally, suggestions are made regarding the distribution of the AYD at the end of its progradation stage, which provides fundamental information for analyzing subsequent erosion processes since 1855 AD. This study differs from existing studies on the AYD, which are all based on geological approaches. It provides insight into the evolution of the AYD through an alternative means, viz. a process-based morphodynamic-modeling approach.","","en","journal article","","","","","","","","2018-12-31","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:e964293a-f6e9-4ae1-ba51-a550e9ad3cc0","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e964293a-f6e9-4ae1-ba51-a550e9ad3cc0","Response in the mekong deltaic coast to its changing sediment sources and sinks","Phan, M.H. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering; Vietnam Minsitry of Agriculture and Rural Development); Reniers, A.J.H.M. (TU Delft Environmental Fluid Mechanics); Ye, Qinghua (Deltares); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","Aagaard, T. (editor); Deigaard, R. (editor); Fuhrman, D. (editor)","2017","The coastal zone of Mekong delta is suffering under intense pressures from climate change as well as human intervention. Currently, the coastline evolution of Mekong delta is a complex combination of impacts due to (1) relative sea level rise i.e. the sum of eustatic sea level rise, natural and human induced subsidence (2) sediment transport rate changes at some sections due to change of wave condition by climate change (3) change of sediment sources from the Mekong estuaries by dam construction and sand mining and (4) mangrove degradation. A coastline monitoring is the basis to understand and manage coast. This study utilizes integrated techniques of remote sensing, geographic information system and statistics to monitor coastline change over the period of 1973 to 2015 from Landsat images of Multispectral (MSS), Thematic Mapper (TM), Enhanced Thematic Mapper Plus (ETM+), Operational Land Imager (OLI) at coastal area of Mekong delta. An advanced toolbox is developed for the work of atmospheric and radiometric correction of Landsat images as well as influence of tidal range is taken into account to obtain mean water level. Tasseled Cap and Normalized Difference Water Index (NDWI) algorithm is applied to separate land-water interface for extracting shorelines. Besides, a digital shoreline assessment system (DSAS) tool is used to analyze shoreline rate by statistic parameters as Shoreline Change Envelope (SCE), End Point Rate (EPR) and Linear Regression (LRR). Furthermore, uncertainty assessment for this methodology based on topographic surveying and Google Earth images. Moreover this research explored relationships between the accretion and erosion of land and the sediment load of the Mekong River. The results revealed a general pattern of accretion and erosion. The eastern coast, which is fragmented by 9 estuaries, was significant accretion and erosion, especially annual erosion rate of around 40 meter at Bo De estuary is noted. Meanwhile the western coast is rather stable, particularly annual accretion rate of up to 90-95 meter at Datmui commune of Camau province. This study indicated there is relative difference of coastline change rate among periods of 1973-1990, 1990-2005 and 2005- present. And the study illustrates the rate of shoreline change is significantly associated with sediment discharge on Mekong River through statistic approach, especially the phase of sediment flow decrease by dam and sand mining on Mekong River in recent 15 years. The results of methodology and maps from this research may be useful in planning and management of this exposed coastline.","hydrodynamics; alongshore current; tidal current; numerical modelling; wave-resolving model; SWASH","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:06a4400f-7329-4275-8100-958331cf4b2a","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:06a4400f-7329-4275-8100-958331cf4b2a","Short-term mudflat dynamics drive long-term cyclic salt marsh dynamics","Bouma, T. J. (Universiteit Utrecht); van Belzen, J. (Universiteit Utrecht); Balke, T. (University of Glasgow; Universiteit Utrecht); van Dalen, J.H. (Universiteit Utrecht); Klaassen, P. (Universiteit Utrecht); Hartog, A. M. (Universiteit Utrecht); Callaghan, D.P. (Universiteit Utrecht; University of Queensland); Hu, Z. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Temmerman, S. (Universiteit Antwerpen); Herman, P.M.J. (Universiteit Utrecht)","","2016","Our study aims to enhance process understanding of the long-term (decadal and longer) cyclic marsh dynamics by identifying the mechanisms that translate large-scale physical forcing in the system into vegetation change, in particular (i) the initiation of lateral erosion on an expanding marsh, and (ii) the control of seedling establishment in front of an eroding marsh-cliff. Short-term sediment dynamics (i.e., seasonal and shorter changes in sediment elevation) at the mudflat causes variation in mudflat elevation over time (δzTF). The resulting difference in elevation between the tidal flat and adjacent marsh (ΔZ) initiates lateral marsh erosion. Marsh erosion rate was found to depend on sediment type and to increase with increasing ΔZ and hydrodynamic exposure. Laboratory and field experiments revealed that seedling establishment was negatively impacted by an increasing δzTF. As the amplitude of δzTF increases towards the channel, expanding marshes become more prone to lateral erosion the further they extend on a tidal flat, and the chance for seedlings to establish increases with the distance that marsh has eroded back towards the land. This process-based understanding, showing the role of sediment dynamics as explanatory factor for marsh cyclicity, is important for protecting and restoring valuable marsh ecosystems. Overall, our experiments emphasize the need for understanding the connections between neighbouring ecosystems such as mudflat and salt marsh.","","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:88df79ed-da68-4acb-a6bd-f1f9d3dc0b78","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:88df79ed-da68-4acb-a6bd-f1f9d3dc0b78","Initial spreading of a mega feeder nourishment: Observations of the Sand Engine pilot project","de Schipper, M.A. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); de Vries, S. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Ruessink, G (External organisation); de Zeeuw, RC (External organisation); Rutten, J (External organisation); van Gelder-Maas, C (External organisation); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering)","","2016","","CWTS JFIS >= 2.00","en","journal article","","","","","","harvest","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:d9e3f248-06fb-48d6-a767-8589ec4b6091","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:d9e3f248-06fb-48d6-a767-8589ec4b6091","Development and Extension of An Aggregated Scale Model: Part 1 – Background to ASMITA","Townend, I (University of Southampton); Wang, Zhengbing (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Stive, M.J.F. (TU Delft Coastal Engineering); Zhou, Z. (Hohai University)","","2016","Whilst much attention has been given to models that describe wave, tide and sediment transport processes in sufficient detail to determine the local changes in bed level over a relatively detailed representation of the bathymetry, far less attention has been given to models that consider the problem at a much larger scale (e.g. that of geomorphological elements such as a tidal flat and tidal channel). Such aggregated or lumped models tend not to represent the processes in detail but rather capture the behaviour at the scale of interest. One such model developed using the concept of an equilibrium concentration is the Aggregated Scale Morphological Interaction between Tidal basin and Adjacent coast (ASMITA). In this paper we provide some new insights into the concepts of equilibrium, and horizontal and vertical exchange that are key components of this modelling approach. In a companion paper, we summarise a range of developments that have been undertaken to extend the original model concept, to illustrate the flexibility and power of the conceptual framework. However, adding detail progressively moves the model in the direction of the more detailed process-based models and we give some consideration to the boundary between the two. Highlights
• The concept of aggregating model scales is explored and the basis of the ASMITA model is outlined in detail;
• The relationship between dispersion as used in fast-scale process-based models and the horizontal exchange used in aggregated models is explored;
• The basis for formulating suitable equilibrium relationships is explained; • Alternative ways to include advection and dispersion are examined.
3 Sand Engine mega-nourishment. Detailed volume changes in cross shore profiles are calculated using the collected data. Based on the calculated volume changes in the cross shore profiles, gradients in alongshore transport can be derived. In the scope of this paper we have derived alongshore transport gradients considering three periods; 1) a period of one year; 2) a period of two months with mild wave conditions; 3) a period of four months with stormy weather. Changes in the derived gradients in sediment transport for the selected periods are significant depending on alongshore location and temporally varying forcing conditions. The potential of the data-set is only explored to a limited extent so far. Additional parameters to be analyzed in the future are coastline orientation and cross shore profile gradients.","Alongshore sediment transport; Sand Engine; Topographic measurements","en","conference paper","American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE)","","","","","","","","","","Coastal Engineering","","",""
"uuid:36e87a9f-daca-4fc9-963e-d1c4519022e3","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:36e87a9f-daca-4fc9-963e-d1c4519022e3","On the Formation of Radial Tidal Current off the Central Jiangsu Coast","Yao, P.; Stive, M.J.F.; Zhang, C.; Su, M.; Wang, Z.B.","","2013","In the South Yellow Sea off the Jiangsu coast, there exists a special type of sand bodies, which are known as radial sand ridge field (RSRF). One of the characteristics of this area is the distinctive radial tidal current field. Although many studies have focused on the hydrodynamic environment around radial sand ridges, the knowledge on the genesis of the radial tidal current is still in a very basic stage. This paper attempts to explore the influence of the tidal dynamics in large Shelf Sea on the formation mechanism of the local tidal current pattern using a schematized process-based model. Different incoming tidal signals are applied in this model respectively to investigate the related current pattern in RSRF. The results reveal that the radial current field only exists under some specified tidal signals from open sea. Furthermore, the geometry of the basin also plays a significant role in the formation of the current pattern.","radial tidal current field; radial sand ridges; formation mechanism; tidal wave","en","conference paper","Tsinghua University Press","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:1005c5ae-d4f6-40c3-8f13-3062ac87ac70","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:1005c5ae-d4f6-40c3-8f13-3062ac87ac70","Further Research on the Tidal Wave System in the Southern Yellow Sea","Su, M.; Wang, Z.B.; Zhang, C.; Yao, P.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2013","A two-dimensional tidal wave model for the Chinese marginal seas with high resolution is set up and the verification results demonstrate that it can well simulate the large domain. Based on this model, a series of numerical experiments are constructed to analyze the influence of local bathymetry and reclamation of the Jiangsu coast on the tidal wave system. According to the simulation results, the existence of the radial tidal current pattern have not been obviously influenced by the local bathymetry except the magnitude of the current velocity. However, it effects the tidal wave near the Jiangsu coast considerably. The reclamation affects the radial current field slightly, whereas the tidal wave near the southern Jiangsu coast is impacted significantly. Besides, further experiments by adding thin dam in the Southern Yellow Sea are studied and discussed. The results illustrate the existence of the tidal wave from the Northern Yellow Sea, which is important for the formation of the rotating tidal wave system in the Southern Yellow Sea.","Southern Yellow Sea; Jiangsu coast; rotating tidal wave systemt; tidal current; Delft3D","en","conference paper","Tsinghua University Press","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:d548be82-1617-4f40-aa6d-08350dbe6ee2","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:d548be82-1617-4f40-aa6d-08350dbe6ee2","The Innovative Structure Solution for Preventing Salt Intrusion and Retaining Freshwater In Mekong Delta VietNam","Hong, S.T.; Vrijling, J.K.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2013","In the Mekong Delta Vietnam, the construction of sluices with the purpose of retaining fresh water and preventing salt water intrusion potentially plays a very important role. However, the structures constructed in small rivers according to local or traditional technology revealed many disadvantages related to the economical, evacuation and ecological conditions. Hence, the demand for large sluices in the larger rivers and estuaries is increasing. In the Netherlands, several units of sluice caissons have been applied but their main function was only to permanently close the basin, while in Viet Nam only single caissons are applied as small river barriers. It is to be noted that a large discharge sluice with several caisson units has never been built so far in Vietnam or in the Netherlands. In contrast with this type of structure, most discharge sluices and barriers in the world have been built according to the ""pier structure type"". In the Netherlands piers and bottom slabs are normally placed on batter pile foundations. In Viet Nam, piers are often placed on vertical pile foundations and a bottom slab is replaced by supporting beams. Both ""proven structure""- caissons and piers have their own strong and weak points; by combining the best features of ""proven sluice technologies"" of the Netherlands and Vi et N atn, appropriate structure types were designed and the most critical concerns related to them were checked. Besides, the improvements and combination of the hydraulic automatic gates and caisson sluice are also considered. The final results show that they are feasible and innovative solutions for the sluices in the large estuary branches in the Mekong Delta Vietnam, which can be applied to discharge a large amount of water, prevent tidal penetration and retain fresh water.","sluice; pier; caisson; salt intrusion","en","conference paper","Tsinghua University Press","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:c6e5f05f-fb0f-4c43-84ff-9dcbfbfe52e3","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c6e5f05f-fb0f-4c43-84ff-9dcbfbfe52e3","The sand engine: A solution for the Dutch Delta in the 21st century?","Stive, M.J.F.; De Schipper, M.A.; Luijendijk, A.P.; Ranasinghe, R.W.M.R.J.B.; Aarninkhof, S.","","2013","The Netherlands’ strategy to combat coastal erosion since 1990 has been through nourishment, initially as beach nourishments but more and more as shoreface nourishments. In the light of sea level rise projections the yearly nourishment magnitudes continue to increase. In view of this an innovative soft engineering intervention, comprising an unprecedented 21 Mm3 sand nourishment known as the Sand Engine, has recently been implemented in the Netherlands. The Sand Engine nourishment is a pilot project to test the effectiveness and efficiency of a local mega-nourishment as a measure to account for the anticipated increased coastal recession in this century. The proposed concept, a single mega-nourishment, once every 20 years, is expected to be more efficient and effective in the long term than traditional beach and shoreface nourishments, presently being used at the Dutch coast with typically a three to five year interval. While the judgement is still out on this globally unique intervention, if proven successful, it may well become a generic solution for combating sea level rise driven coastal recession on open and vulnerable coasts.","nourishment; coastal erosion; sea level rise; storm erosion; shoreface processes; flooding; sand engine","en","conference paper","IAHR","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:073e9289-67b9-437c-b63a-7684374a11ee","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:073e9289-67b9-437c-b63a-7684374a11ee","The tidal wave system in the Chinese marginal seas","Su, M.; Stive, M.J.F.; Zhang, C.K.; Yao, P.; Chen, Y.P.; Wang, Z.B.","","2013","A 2D large-scale tidal wave model is set up for the Chinese marginal seas and it is proved to simulate the tidal motion in this large domain well. Based on the model, sensitivity analyses have been carried out to investigate the influences of various factors on the tidal wave system. According to the results, the effect of river discharges and the tidal generating force on the whole tidal wave system is not obvious, but they do have influence in the shallow water area. In addition, the results show that sea level rise will impact on the China coast more than on the west coast of Korea. Furthermore, this paper demonstrates that the Shandong Peninsula is not the crucial reason for the formation of the radial tidal current off Jiangsu coast. A better insight into the propagation mechanism of the tidal wave in the Chinese marginal seas is obtained.","Chinese marginal seas; tidal wave; tidal current; radial sand ridges; Jiangsu coast; Delft 3D","en","conference paper","Bordeaux University","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:fe4b009f-3c35-49c9-87e0-e0ee24517dd0","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:fe4b009f-3c35-49c9-87e0-e0ee24517dd0","Monitoring morphology of the sand engine leeside using Argus' cBathy","Wengrove, M.E.; Henriquez, M.; De Schipper, M.A.; Holman, R.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2013","The Sand Engine is a mega-nourishment constructed in 2011 with the purpose of replenishing the surrounding southern Dutch coast by exploiting the strength of local alongshore currents for the next 20 years. Long term monitoring of the Sand Engine depends upon remote sensing coupled with in-situ measurements due to both its large spatial and temporal scales and variability. Herein, emphasis is made upon quantitatively and qualitatively observing the effects of this mega-nourishment upon its leeward side in the direction of the predominant alongshore current. One of the first applications of cBathy along the Dutch coast shows promising results for this remote technique to capture morphodynamics within the area over the coming years. cBathy is an algorithm developed to make estimations of nearshore bathymetry based upon the celerity of the propagating wave field extracted from Argus coastal images. So far, analysis shows that the Dutch wave climate variability influences hourly cBathy depth approximations, however running average depth estimations yield small deviation compared with a measured ground truth bathymetry of the area.","morphology; remote sensing; alongshore currents; beach nourishment; cBathy; Argus","en","conference paper","Bordeaux University","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:55aa3067-6d17-4a29-a15a-b01505664c94","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:55aa3067-6d17-4a29-a15a-b01505664c94","EBB-tidal delta morphology in response to a storm surge barrier","Eelkema, M.; Wang, Z.B.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2013","The ebb-tidal delta of the Eastern Scheldt tidal inlet has been under the influence of a storm surge barrier for the past 25 years. This barrier caused a strong decrease in average tidal currents through the inlet. The morphological response of the ebb-tidal delta is characterized by several different processes: (1) an overall decrease in sediment volume and morphological activity, (2) downdrift reorientation of channels and shoals, (3) a redistribution of sediment between channels and shoals, and (4) a lack of sediment exchange with the basin. Simulations with a process-based model show that the reorientation is a result of changed balance between cross-shore and alongshore tidal currents. The sediment volume decrease is a result of decreased tidal currents in combination with wind waves and a lack of sediment supply.","tidal inlet; Eastern Scheldt; ebb-tidal delta; storm surge barrier; morphodynamics","en","conference paper","Bordeaux University","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:b7ceb38f-0209-4df2-9b5f-383c1f250916","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b7ceb38f-0209-4df2-9b5f-383c1f250916","Advection and diffusion of shore-attached sand nourishments","Huisman, B.J.A.; Van Thiel De Vries, J.S.M.; Walstra, D.J.R.; Roelvink, J.A.; Ranasinghe, R.W.M.R.J.B.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2013","Understanding of the behaviour of coastline perturbations at soft-coastlines is essential for modelling coastal evolution at decadal time scales. Many coastline models do, for example, implicitly assume dominant diffusive behaviour of coastline features. The validity of this assumption is investigated for the Dutch coast on the basis of data on coastline perturbations. Bathymetrical data for a number of nourishments were used to assess the relative importance of diffusion with respect to advection of the sediment along the coast. For this purpose, the volume of sediment is computed for cross-shore transects along the coast. The alongshore distribution of this sediment over time (as a result of dispersion by waves and currents) is then analysed by means of simple shape parameters: a mean alongshore position and standard deviation of the nourishment sand from the centre. Next, the nourishments were also characterized with an advective and diffusive parameter by fitting of an advection-diffusion equation. These parameters then give a classification of the nourishment behaviour. It was found that the behaviour of nourishments at the Dutch coast is dominated by diffusive processes, while advective processes have some influence on the alongshore transport in the shallow part of the surfzone for smaller nourishments.","coastal morphology; non-linear coastline response; advection-diffusion; nourishments","en","conference paper","Bordeaux University","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:c96fe364-4586-4ce7-95d7-1735dc0a36c7","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c96fe364-4586-4ce7-95d7-1735dc0a36c7","The genesis of the radial tidal current off the Central Jiangsu Coast","Yao, P.; Wang, Z.B.; Zhang, C.K.; Su, M.; Chen, Y.P.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2013","One of the characteristics of the radial sand ridge field (RSRF) in the South Yellow Sea off the Jiangsu coast is the distinctive radial tidal current field. Although many studies have focused on the hydrodynamic environment around radial sand ridges, the knowledge on the genesis of the radial tidal current is still in a very basic stage. This paper attempts to explore the formation mechanism of the local radial tidal current field by a schematized process-based model. Two factors which are hypothesized to be responsible for the radial tidal current pattern are investigated: coastline shape, and the submarine topography. The results show that the schematized model sufficiently represents the real pattern of the tidal wave propagation in the South Yellow Sea. A preliminary description of the formation mechanism and main influence factors are obtained through sensitive analysis.","radial tidal current field; radial sand ridges; formation mechanism; schematized model; tidal wave","en","conference paper","Bordeaux University","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:612432d4-62a6-451b-8476-3a48859dea35","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:612432d4-62a6-451b-8476-3a48859dea35","Influence of profile features on longshore sediment transport","Mil Homens, J.P.; Ranasinghe, R.W.M.R.J.B.; Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2013","Longshore sediment transport (LST) is one of the main drivers of beach morphology. Bulk LST formulas are routinely used in coastal management/engineering studies to assess LST rates and gradients. However, there is still great uncertainty in LST estimation with these bulk formulas. This uncertainty may have two sources: 1) experimental errors in the measured values and 2) the effect of parameters that are not part of the formulas. In this study, we attempt to find the influence of profile related features in the LST rates that are not accounted for in the bulk formulas. These features may influence the type of wave breaking. A process-based model (UNIBEST-LT) is used to calculate LST rates on a large number of profiles measured on the Dutch coast, all forced with the same realistic wave climate. We found that the LST rates vary with the profiles. The value corresponding to the 95th percentile of the resulting distribution is 50% higher than one correspondent to the 5th percentile. The root mean square downward slope parameter showed the best correlation with LST rates.","longshore sediment transport; process based models; UNIBEST-LT; cross-shore profile features","en","conference paper","Bordeaux University","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:5313b734-80ce-477d-958a-10b59a925f86","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:5313b734-80ce-477d-958a-10b59a925f86","Alongshore topographic variability at a nourished beach","De Schipper, M.A.; De Vries, S.; Ranasinghe, R.W.M.R.J.B.; Reniers, A.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2013","The present paper examines the generation and inter-annual evolution of alongshore variability in topography measured after the implementation of a sand nourishment. The magnitude of the topographic variability is quantified using 3.5 years of monthly survey data. The emergence and temporal change in alongshore morphological variability is compared with environmental and topographic controls previously suggested as governing processes in published literature. Results show that the variability at this site is slowly evolving on a monthly timescale. Magnitude of the variability in the first period after implementation of the nourishment was similar to the values found after 3.5 years. Temporal variation in the magnitude of the alongshore topographic variability was found to be related the incoming wave power offshore. Energetic storm events during winter resulted in a rapid increase in variability, followed by a gradual decrease in alongshore variability during spring and summer.","alongshore topographic variability; sand nourishments; subtidal bar dynamics","en","conference paper","Bordeaux University","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:3d2037f0-001b-4426-8c0e-463df9dd78ed","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:3d2037f0-001b-4426-8c0e-463df9dd78ed","The sand engine: A solution for vulnerable deltas in the 21st century?","Stive, M.J.F.; De Schipper, M.A.; Luijendijk, A.P.; Ranasinghe, R.W.M.R.J.B.; Van Thiel De Vries, J.S.M.; Aarninkhof, S.; Van Gelder-Maas, C.; De Vries, S.; Henriquez, M.; Marx, S.","","2013","The Netherlands’ strategy to combat coastal erosion since 1990 has been through nourishment, initially as beach nourishments but more and more as shoreface nourishments. In the light of sea level rise projections the yearly nourishment magnitudes continue to increase. In view of this an innovative soft engineering intervention, comprising an unprecedented 21 Mm3 sand nourishment known as the Sand Engine, has recently been implemented in the Netherlands. The Sand Engine nourishment is a pilot project to test the effectiveness and efficiency of a local meganourishment as a measure to account for the anticipated increased coastal recession in this century. The proposed concept, a single mega-nourishment, once every 20 years, is expected to be more efficient and effective in the long term than traditional beach and shoreface nourishments, presently being used at the Dutch coast with typically a three to five year interval. While the judgement is still out on this globally unique intervention, if proven successful, it may well become a generic solution for combating sea level rise driven coastal recession on open and vulnerable coasts.","nourishment; coastal erosion; sea level rise; storm erosion; shoreface processes; flooding; sand engine","en","conference paper","Bordeaux University","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:ccfb0f0a-268b-4cea-b8ec-f47a78be7ae8","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:ccfb0f0a-268b-4cea-b8ec-f47a78be7ae8","Morphological developments after a beach and shoreface nourishment at Vlugtenburg beach","De Schipper, M.A.; De Vries, S.; Ranasinghe, R.W.M.R.J.B.; Reniers, A.J.H.M.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2012","Typically a beach is out of equilibrium after a nourishment is installed. To observe how a nourished beach behaves on the timescale of storms a monitoring campaign was set up at Vlugtenburg beach after a nourishment in the spring of 2009. Here we show a sediment budget analysis of the first 2.5 years for a coastal domain spanning 1750 m alongshore from -9 to +5 m NAP. To investigate the redistribution of nourished sand different sections of the profile are examined. Observations show that the initial response (first 6 to 12 months after construction) is large where the sediment eroded from the beach is transported offshore to form a subtidal bar. In the following period (until present) the losses in the domain are on the order of 40 m3 per m alongshore per year. These losses are concentrated in the profile around the waterline.","","en","conference paper","University of Twente","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:5de30cfc-92b9-4b83-b961-35339428c6d0","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:5de30cfc-92b9-4b83-b961-35339428c6d0","Het gezicht van de kust verandert: De Zandmotor bij Kijkduin - 'bouwen met de natuur' - bevalt goed","Stive, M.J.F.","","2012","","zandmotor; Kijkduin","nl","journal article","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:7dcd190c-c156-44df-8108-e1b180400610","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:7dcd190c-c156-44df-8108-e1b180400610","Impact of nourishments on nearshore currents and swimmer safety on the Dutch coast","de Zeeuw, R.C.; de Schipper, M.A.; Roelvink, D.; de Vries, S.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2012","Assessing swimmer safety along the Dutch coast entails more than only assessing the risk of rip currents. Seven criteria have been formulated to make a comprehensive assessment of swimmer safety along the Dutch coast. These are based on interviews with lifeguards, rescue report statistics and detailed lagrangian measurements of the current patterns and bathymetry in the shallow nearshore, at three different field sites along the South-Holland coast.","swimmer safety, nourishments, longshore current, rip current, coastal structures, GPS drifters.","en","conference paper","Coastal Engineering Research Council","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:5e347135-7aa8-48ed-9058-d381af9101e2","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:5e347135-7aa8-48ed-9058-d381af9101e2","Sustainable development of land reclamations and shorelines: Full-scale experiments as a driver for public-private innovations","Aarninkhof, S.G.J.; Allewijn, R.; Kleij, A.M.; Stive, M.J.F.; Baptist, M.J.","","2012","With 80% of the world's population living in lowland urban areas by 2050, sea levels gradually rising and societal demands on the quality of living increasing, sustainable development of coastal zones becomes increasingly urgent as well as complex. Modern strategies for the design and implementation of measures for infrastructure development, coastal protection and other functions adopt the concept of Building with Nature to handle these challenges. Recently, two full scale experiments were implemented to assess the benefits of the this approach for coastal development. The Sand Motor pilot project addresses the potential concentrated nourishments on the basis of a 21 million m3 shore nourishment at the Delfland coast in the Netherlands. This unprecedented experiment aims to protect the hinterland from flooding by letting natural processes distribute sand over shoreface, beach and dunes, thus constituting a climate-robust and environmentally friendly way of coastal protection. The second experiment addresses the concept of seabed landscaping in sand extraction sites, which aims to add ecological value to the sand borrow areas after construction. Both pilots have been monitored since their completion in 2010/2011 and will be monitored extensively in the coming years. The data available so-far reveal that the morphological evolution of the Sand Motor occurs faster than anticipated. Refined simulations though show that state-of-the-art models do allow for quantitative assessment of concentrated nourishments. Careful analysis of the ecological data sampled from the landscaped extraction site resulted in another key finding: inside the mining pit, 4-5 times more fish was found than outside. At the more strategic level, our findings confirm the key role of full-scale experiments as an effective focal point of (inter-disciplinary) research efforts, and public-private partnering as a successful mechanism to drive innovations in the field of marine infrastructure development.","coastal development; Sand Motor; concentrated nourishment; seabed landscaping","en","conference paper","Central Dredging Association (CEDA)","","","","","","Campus only","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:dffbde0b-ef26-4d2f-b998-0f0db8001965","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:dffbde0b-ef26-4d2f-b998-0f0db8001965","Stable and unstable coastal inlet cross-sectional behaviour","Stive, M.J.F.; Tran, T.T.; Nghiem, T.L.","","2012","A review will be presented of the theory behind stable and unstable coastal inlet cross-sectional behaviour. The theoretical findings behind stable coastal inlet cross-sectional behaviour will be reviewed, analysed and confronted with empirical findings, leading to some unresolved questions. Second, seasonal variations will be shown to induce unstable coastal inlet behaviour, which leads to an interesting cycle of stable and unstable conditions. While this is especially relevant for Vietnamese coastal inlets at the central coast of Vietnam, as will be presented, the findings are of general value for many coastal inlets around the world. Adjacent coastal behaviour is strongly affected by the presence of inlets and the impacts of climate change on tidal basins will exert a strong influence on the adjacent coasts.","coastal inlet; stability","en","conference paper","Water Resources University","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:4a22ce36-95b0-4508-a53a-2156acba4f2d","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:4a22ce36-95b0-4508-a53a-2156acba4f2d","Vung Tau – Go Cong Dam: Mathematical modelling: one size fits all ?","Schiereck, G.J.; Stive, M.J.F.; Vrijling, J.K.","","2012","To resolve the flooding problems of Ho Chi Minh City, the possibilities for a large barrier downstream of the city are under study. In the final design stage a detailed 1-or 2-dimensional mathematical model is necessary to describe water levels and flow in the branches of the estuary system. The authors plea for the use of simple, first-order models, additional to a detailed model. The use of such models is shown as a tool in the preliminary stages of such a project but also as a reflection tool to get a better understanding of the system. The authors strongly argue that such tools are indispensible since the design process is never smooth and is never a linear sequence of theoretically logical steps. Several examples are being given.","flood protection; tides; mathematical modelling; Saint venant equations; system approach","en","conference paper","Water Resources University","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:3e0483e7-6bdd-4f0b-81d6-c88030481e4f","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:3e0483e7-6bdd-4f0b-81d6-c88030481e4f","Circulation patterns and shoreline response induced by submerged breakwaters","Villani, M.; Bosboom, J.; Zijlema, M.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2012","Submerged shore-parallel breakwaters for coastal defence (henceforth SBWs) are a good compromise between the need to mitigate the effects of waves on the coast and the ambition to ensure the preservation of the landscape and water quality. However, if not properly designed, such structures can force circulation patterns that enhance shoreline erosion rather than shoreline accretion. Numerical models can be used to investigate the structure-induced circulation patterns and the resulting shoreline response. However, being computationally demanding these models are most suitable for advanced stages of the design process. The aim of this paper is to present a simple criterion to qualitatively identify whether an accretive or erosive circulation pattern can be expected in the lee of the structures. The criterion is based on analytical considerations and builds on the model presented by Bellotti (2004, 2007). It is validated against the non-hydrostatic free surface numerical model SWASH (Zijlema et al. 2011) and experiments performed by Haller et al. (2002). The validation indicates that the proposed analytical model is capable of providing a rapid first assessment of the potential shoreline response mode for SBW design.","coastal defence; submerged breakwaters; coastal currents; design criterion","en","conference paper","Coastal Engineering Research Council","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:1dde9d6f-543a-41ce-9934-fda6f5d69fd5","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:1dde9d6f-543a-41ce-9934-fda6f5d69fd5","Re-assessment and update of bulk longshore sediment transport formulas","Mil-Homens, J.P.; Ranasinghe, R.W.M.R.J.B.; Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2012","Longshore sediment transport (LST) is one of the main drivers of beach morphology. Bulk LST formulas are routinely used in coastal management/engineering studies to assess LST rates and gradients. Over 50 years of research has resulted in several bulk LST formulas that have been tested with varying levels of rigor. In this study, the predictive skill of one of the most recent bulk LST formulas (Bayram et al., 2007) is evaluated. The calibration coefficients in the formula are improved using a least-squares optimization algorithm, resulting in a significant improvement in predictive skill. The generality of the improved formula is verified via the statistical methods of bootstrapping and cross-validation.","longshore sediment transport; LST bulk formulas; LST data set","en","conference paper","Coastal Engineering Research Council","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:92d7f658-cd49-46b0-8c90-9b830e708455","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:92d7f658-cd49-46b0-8c90-9b830e708455","Quantifying nearshore morphological recovery time scales using argus video imaging: Palm Beach, Sydney and Duck, North Carolina","Ranasinghe, R.W.M.R.J.B.; Holman, R.; De Schipper, M.A.; Lippmann, T.; Wehof, J.; Duong, T.M.; Roelvink, D.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2012","Time scales of post-storm nearshore morphological recovery and physical processes governing these time scales are poorly understood at present. The ability to predict nearshore morphological recovery time scales based on pre-, during- or post-resetting storm conditions is an essential requirement for building and validating scale aggregated models that operate at macro- and higher spatio-temporal scales. In this study, quality controlled ARGUS video derived beach states at Palm Beach, Sydney (4 years) and Duck, NC (2 years) and concurrent wave data are analysed to quantify the nearshore morphological recovery time scales (Tmr) and to determine the physical processes that may govern Tmr. The results show that Tmr is of the order of 5-10 days at these two beaches. Tmr is moderately positively correlated with the averaged longshore current over the 3 days immediately after the resetting storm, indicating that it might be possible to develop a predictor for Tmr based on wave conditions immediately after the resetting storm. Weak correlations are present between Tmr and several pre-storm, during-storm and post-storm parameters at the two sites. However, these correlations are inconsistent between the two sites. A thorough analysis employing long-term beach state and wave data at several different study sites is required to fully understand this phenomenon.","morphological resets; storm impact; recovery time scales; ARGUS","en","conference paper","Coastal Engineering Research Council","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:cdf83719-5f36-42c8-afbe-6a4be4e3f19e","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:cdf83719-5f36-42c8-afbe-6a4be4e3f19e","A new conceptual model for aeolian transport rates on beaches","De Vries, S.; Stive, M.J.F.; Van Rijn, L.; Ranasinghe, R.","","2012","In this paper a new conceptual model for aeolian sediment transport rates is presented. Traditional sediment transport formulations have known limitations when applied to coastal beach situations. A linear model for sediment transport rates with respect to wind speed is proposed and supported by both data and numerical model simulations. The presented model does not solve complex wind fields and is therefore very easily applicable. Physical principles such as the presence of a threshold velocity and interaction with the bed surface are yet to be implemented before the model can be used for predictive purposes.","aeolian transport; field measurements; model concept","en","conference paper","Coastal Engineering Research Council","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:e6d52cfd-af6e-44da-85ec-a0b5467dc3f6","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e6d52cfd-af6e-44da-85ec-a0b5467dc3f6","Drag coefficient of vegetation in flow modeling","Hu, Z.; Stive, M.J.F.; Zitman, T.J.; Suzuki, T.","","2012","Poster. The interaction between aquatic plants and hydrodynamic force and its implication on the long-term landscape development have received intention from ecology, geology and hydraulic engineering.","","en","conference paper","Coastal Engineering Research Council","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:823bae6c-93df-47fc-8a4d-9483de9ab003","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:823bae6c-93df-47fc-8a4d-9483de9ab003","Vortex tubes in the wave bottom boundary layer","Henriquez, M.; Reniers, A.J.H.M.; Ruessink, B.G.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2012","The cause of sediment suspension events during flow reversal under waves in the nearshore is not well understood. Vortex tubes and horizontal pressure gradients have been suggested to be the cause of the suspension events. A medium sized wave flume experiment has been conducted to give insight in the hydrodynamics of the wave bottom boundary layer over a fixed single-barred profile. Flow measurements were made with PIV and the swirling strength of the velocity fields were analyzed. Around flow reversal vortex tubes were identified. The vortex tubes had similar size and swirling strength as vortices generated by vortex shedding over a rippled bed. Therefore, vortex tubes under waves in the nearshore could explain the sediment suspension events around flow reversal.","","en","conference paper","University of Twente","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Water Management","","","",""
"uuid:7e5562c0-e7a9-475f-a829-83929224fbfb","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:7e5562c0-e7a9-475f-a829-83929224fbfb","Simulating the large-scale spatial sand-mud distribution in a schematized process-based tidal inlet system model","Scheel, F.; van Ledden, M.; van Prooijen, B.C.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2012","Tidal basins, as found in the Dutch Wadden Sea, are characterized by strong spatial variations in bathymetry and sediment distribution. In this contribution, the aim is at simulating the spatial sand-mud distribution of a tidal basin. Predicting this spatial distribution is however complicated, due to the non-linear interactions between tides, waves, sediment transport, morphology and biology. To reduce complexity, while increasing physical understanding, an idealized schematization of the Amelander inlet system is considered. Delft3D is applied with a recently developed bed module, containing various sediment layers, combined with formulations for both cohesive and non-cohesive sediment mixtures. Starting with uniform mud content in the spatial domain, the development of the sediment distribution is simulated. Realistic sand-mud patterns are found, with accumulation of mud on the tidal flats. The schematization is further used to determine the sensitivity of the sand-mud patterns to changes in tide, while assessing the influence of tidal dominance on the large-scale sand-mud patterns. The patterns are enhanced/diminished under the influence of higher/lower tides.","","en","conference paper","University of Twente","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:6ceb4ee8-1574-4efa-bf10-60abfae1f9cd","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:6ceb4ee8-1574-4efa-bf10-60abfae1f9cd","The Lagos coast: Investigation of the long-term morphological impact of the Eko Atlantic City project","van Bentum, K.M.; Hoyng, C.W.; van Ledden, M.; Luijendijk, A.P.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2012","The Lagos coast has been suffering high rates of erosion since the construction of three harbour moles, i.e. the West Mole, East Mole and the Training Mole, at the tidal inlet connecting the Lagos Lagoon to the South Atlantic Ocean. To provide for a permanent erosion mitigation measure and to create residential and commercial area for circa 400,000 people, the Eko Atlantic City project has been initiated in 2008. In front of the eroded coast, approximately 9 km² of land will be reclaimed and protected by a revetment. In this study the long-term and large-scale morphological behavior of the Lagos coast is investigated and subsequently the long-term morphological impact of the project is assessed. First, a conceptual model is created, in which the historical development of the coast is discussed. The long-term morphological behavior of the coast downstream of the inlet is determined by two main factors: sediment accumulation at the West Mole and sediment import into the tidal inlet and the lagoon, induced by disturbance of the morphological equilibrium by sea level rise and dredging activities. Using the numerical simulation model Unibest, the long-term impact of Eko Atlantic City is assessed. It is concluded that the construction of Eko Atlantic City will not change the total erosion volumes downstream of the inlet. However, as the revetment of the project retains the coast, the erosion will be shifted towards downstream. Downdrift of the project, the erosion rates are locally relatively high. The shape of the sea defence has been designed to minimize the local erosion effect. A monitoring and mitigation strategy has been recommended to monitor this effect and instruct coastal protection management actions to be implemented if required.","","en","conference paper","University of Twente","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Water Management","","","",""
"uuid:7ff66e3b-e887-4cf5-98b1-020481f5d67d","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:7ff66e3b-e887-4cf5-98b1-020481f5d67d","Coastal adaptation to climate change: A case study in Durban, South Africa","Geldenhuys, M.A.; Jonkman, S.N.; Mather, A.A.; Ranasinghe, R.W.M.R.J.B.; Stive, M.J.F.; Van Ledden, M.","","2012","Recent research done the IPCC (2007) working groups and other organizations has sparked global concern over the possible impacts of climate change and corresponding sea level rise (SLR) upon coastal communities. In reaction studies were done (for example by Nicholls et al., 2008) to assess the vulnerability of coastal regions and get an indication of the magnitude of the potential global impacts. However, most of these studies did not address the development of climate change adaptation designs to protect the coastline. In this paper it is demonstrated how a localised coastal vulnerability assessment could guide the development of conceptual coastal protection designs in an African context. The overall aim of this paper is the appraisal of climate adaptation measures and coastal management strategies for Durban, South Africa. This is illustrated using a case study, for a coastal section along Durban´s central beaches. The case study is an example of how the vulnerability to coastal hazards could be assessed, for different SLR scenarios and should provide guidance for developing conceptual coastal protection designs. A recent extreme storm event indicated that significant damage can be sustained from coastal hazards in Durban under the current conditions. A 1-in-100 year storm is shown to already affect the operations of critical infrastructure under current conditions at the case study site. The projected vulnerability increases significantly for future SLR scenarios.","climate adaptation; coastal protection; sea level rise; developing world","en","conference paper","PIANC","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:65e3b9d8-e2c9-4ee4-8f88-ec99aa3f2172","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:65e3b9d8-e2c9-4ee4-8f88-ec99aa3f2172","Capacity building: Hydraulics and coastal engineering","Schiereck, G.J.; Cat, V.M.; Stive, M.J.F.; Misdorp, R.","","2011","","","en","book chapter","Coastal and Marine Union EUCC","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:b4ce5aa1-3aff-4439-b80f-86ce59d57964","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b4ce5aa1-3aff-4439-b80f-86ce59d57964","Tidal flat evolution at the central Jiangsu coast, China","Gong, Z.; Wang, Z.B.; Stive, M.J.F.; Zhang, C.K.","","2011","A schematized process-based model of tidal flat evolution was constructed with dimensions similar to the tidal flats near the Wanggang Mouth at the central coast of Jiangsu, China. The simulated flow patterns agree qualitatively with field observations from literature, i.e. involving tidal asymmetry, current directions and tidal wave features. The analysis of the sediment fluxes depicts that deposition occurs from spring tide to neap tide and erosion from neap tide to spring tide. A sensitivity analysis test of the morphological acceleration factor shows that the ideal value is only 1, implying no acceleration factor. The long-term mudflat evolution has been simulated starting from an initial sand seabed. The simulated morphological characteristics, including the convex cross-shore profiles with steeper slope and the southern prograding coastline with slight higher accretion rate compared with the north side, are qualitatively consistent with reality. Most importantly, the creek patterns are roughly reproduced.","","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:f2e0f8d5-e696-4d8a-bb17-cdda3f4f8480","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:f2e0f8d5-e696-4d8a-bb17-cdda3f4f8480","The Netherlands: Challenges for the 21st century","Stive, M.J.F.; Van Koningsveld, M.; Misdorp, R.","","2011","","","en","book chapter","Coastal & Marine Union - EUCC","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:3f630242-12bd-4138-908c-7105e13f5fb6","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:3f630242-12bd-4138-908c-7105e13f5fb6","Interaction between hydrodynamics and salt marsh dynamics: An example from Jiangsu coast","Hu, Z.; Stive, M.J.F.; Zitman, T.J.; Ye, Q.H.; Wang, Z.B.; Luijendijk, A.; Gong, Z.; Suzuki, T.","","2011","Salt marshes are distributed along more than 400 km of the Jiangsu coast in Eastern China, which are regarded as important habitats and serve as coastal protection as well. Previous research has proven that salt-marsh vegetation can reduce current velocity and dampen waves by its stems and leaves. Reversely, hydrodynamic forces also have a significant influence on the growth of salt-marsh vegetation. To study the interaction between hydrodynamics and salt-marsh development on the Jiangsu coast, a 2D schematized model has been built by using a new interactive structure between flow, wave and vegetation modules of the process-based model Delft3D. In the hydrodynamic simulations, the impact of vegetation on waves and currents is quantified. In the vegetation growth module, the development of salt marshes is influenced by inundation time and shear stress from hydrodynamic simulations. The feedback loop is completed by hydrodynamic modules receiving the newly updated data of salt-marsh field from the vegetation growth module. The results show that wave height and current velocity are significantly influenced by vegetation. Reversely, the dynamics of marsh vegetation greatly rely on hydrodynamic conditions. Consequently, this interaction between hydrodynamics and salt marsh induces temporal variations of each other. In the model, the salt marsh is especially sensitive to the waves. Though wave height is relatively small on the Jiangsu coast, in terms of bed shear stress, waves may be of great importance to the development of salt marsh.","","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Waterbouwkunde","","","",""
"uuid:77148673-1e07-44c7-86de-60ce2fbd4f40","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:77148673-1e07-44c7-86de-60ce2fbd4f40","Development of tidal watersheds in the Wadden Sea","Wang, Z.B.; Vroom, J.; van Prooijen, B.C.; Labeur, R.J.; Stive, M.J.F.; Hansen, M.H.P.","","2011","The Wadden Sea consists of a series of tidal lagoons which are connected to the North Sea by tidal inlets. Boundaries to each lagoon are the mainland coast, the barrier islands on both sides of the tidal inlet, and the tidal watersheds behind the two barrier islands. Behind each Wadden Island there is a tidal watershed separating two adjacent tidal lagoons. The locations of the tidal watersheds in the Wadden Sea are not fixed. Especially after a human interference in one of the tidal lagoons, a tidal watershed can move and thereby influence the distribution of area between the lagoons. This appears to be important for the morphological development in not only the basin in which the interference takes place, but also in the adjacent basins. This paper describes theoretical analyses and numerical modelling aimed at improving the insights into the location of the tidal watersheds, their movements, and the impact of the movements of tidal watersheds on the morphological development of a multi-basin system like the Wadden Sea.","","en","conference paper","Tsinghua University Press","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:664c1cb4-9619-45cc-ad5b-7302849dae48","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:664c1cb4-9619-45cc-ad5b-7302849dae48","Sediment exchange between the subaqueous and subaerial coastal zones","De Vries, S.; De Schipper, M.A.; Ranasinghe, R.W.M.R.J.B.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2011","The coastal system consists of a sub-aqueous and a sub-aerial zone which can be separated by a border. At this border sediment exchange takes place from one zone to the other. This paper hypothesizes that conditions and therefore sediment exchange at this border are dependent on active profile characteristics. To analyze morphological developments due to combined marine and aeolian processes data acquired at a measurement site located along the southwest Holland coast is exploited. Based on the monthly morphological profile measurements the border between the marine and aeolian zone is determined. It is found that during accretive conditions the vertical location of this border, and with that the conditions near the border, is dependent not on the foreshore slope of the surf/swash zone as expected but on the slope of the entire active profile.","aeolian transport, morphological measurements, active profile, coastline change","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:8195c98e-9725-4d86-bc4d-c6979a3f2a75","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8195c98e-9725-4d86-bc4d-c6979a3f2a75","Stone Stability in Non-uniform Flow","Hoan, N.T.; Stive, M.J.F.; Booij, R.; Hofland, B.; Verhagen, H.J.","","2011","This paper presents the results of an experimental study on stone stability under nonuniform turbulent flow, in particular expanding flow. Detailed measurements of both flow and turbulence and the bed stability are described. Than various manners of quantifying the hydraulic loads exerted on the stones on a bed are extensively reviewed and extended. On the basis of the data, a new relationship between flow parameters and bed damage—expressed as a stone entrainment formula—has been established for nonuniform flow. As the present data is in line with existing data on other flows, the present relation seems applicable for other types of nonuniform flow as well. Such a relationship could provide more consistent design criteria and allow an estimate of the cumulative damage over time, which is important for making decisions regarding maintenance frequency and lifetime analysis of hydraulic structures.","stone stability; stone transport; stone entrainment; incipient motion; threshold condition; bed protection; decelerating flow","en","journal article","American Society of Civil Engineers","","","","","","","2011-12-01","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:00be55c3-b780-4b2f-8b5c-c1786d29e269","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:00be55c3-b780-4b2f-8b5c-c1786d29e269","How the Dutch plan to stay dry over the next Century","Stive, M.J.F.; Fresco, L.O.; Kabat, P.; Parmet, B.W.A.H.; Veerman, C.P.","","2011","Over two-thirds of the Netherlands’ economy and half its population is below sea level. The Dutch government recently set out far-reaching recommendations on how to keep the country flood-proof over the next century given the likelihood of rising sea levels and river flows. This paper explains the recommendations, which are based on a gradual upgrading of safety standards in the light of economic growth and group casualty risk, together with triggers provided by debates and data on climate change. It concludes that protection is feasible both technically and economically, costing up to 3 billion a year, and that the approach could be useful for other low-lying areas.","flood defence; coastal engineering; deltacommissie; river engineering","en","journal article","ICE Institution of Civil Engineers","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:f2f3cc95-84c8-4bb7-bf50-d182709ff1cc","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:f2f3cc95-84c8-4bb7-bf50-d182709ff1cc","Estimating coastal recession due to sea level rise: Beyond the Bruun rule","Ranasinghe, R.; Callaghan, D.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2011","Accelerated sea level rise (SLR) in the twenty-first century will result in unprecedented coastal recession, threatening billions of dollars worth of coastal developments and infrastructure. Therefore, we cannot continue to dep nd on the highly uncertain coastal recession estimates obtained via the simple, deterministic method (Bruun rule) that has been widely used over the last 50 years. Furthermore, the emergence of risk management style coastal planning frameworks is now requiring probabilistic (rather than deterministic, single value) estimates of coastal recession. This paper describes the development and application of a process based model (PCR model) which provides probabilistic estimates of SLR driven coastal recession. The PCR model is proposed as a more appropriate and defensible method for determining coastal recession due to SLR for planning purposes in the twenty-first century and beyond.","","en","journal article","Springer","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:0aef239b-320f-43ba-a3aa-859638090169","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:0aef239b-320f-43ba-a3aa-859638090169","Zandmotor (sand motor): Building with nature","Mulder, J.P.M.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2011","Our coast essentially consists of sand from the bottom of the North Sea that was laid there by rivers in previous interglacial periods. Increasing sea levels have meant that this source has gradually almost ceased to exist with build-up reversing to break down. The balance between the supply and demand for sediment is currently negative but sand supplementation can restore this balance. By scaling up supplementation we can ‘Build with Nature’ and so grow in a natural way as the sea level rises and even if it rises more quickly. Along the Delft coastline there is currently an ongoing experiment with a large scale ‘Zandmotor’ which will ensure longer term safety in an innovative way and also provide space for nature and recreation.","","en","conference paper","ICID","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","","","","",""
"uuid:2cc7b536-5c3d-4ff6-828a-8d8331e1b8ff","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2cc7b536-5c3d-4ff6-828a-8d8331e1b8ff","Inleiding waterbouwkunde","Bezuyen, K.G.; Stive, M.J.F.; Vaes, G.J.C.; Vrijling, J.K.; Zitman, T.J.","","2011","In het college CT2320- lnleiding Waterbouwkunde- wordt een breed overzicht gegeven van de verschillende aspecten van het vak Waterbouwkunde. Dit houdt in dat informatie wordt gegeven over ontwerp en uitvoering van allertei soorten waterbouwkundige werken. Door de breedte van het onderwerp zal de diepgang in dit inleidende college beperkt moeten blijven. De nadruk zal worden gelegd op begrip, terwijl voor het kwantificeren veel gebruik zal worden gemaakt van vuistregels. Over embargo zie TOPdesk 220104104","waterbouwkunde","nl","lecture notes","VSSD","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:9ae8c759-79b1-4cf3-ad4c-a540e460bee5","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:9ae8c759-79b1-4cf3-ad4c-a540e460bee5","On the initiation of nearshore morphological rhythmicity","De Schipper, M.A.; Ranasinghe, R.W.M.R.J.B.; Reniers, A.J.H.M.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2010","Nearshore rhythmicity is often initiated in the period just after a storm where the subtidal bar is turned alongshore uniform. The initiation time as well as the length scales of the created rhythmicity varies from one storm period to another. Here we show that the post-storm wave conditions are related to the initiation of the morphological rhythmicity. Narrow-banded and long wave period, both proxies for swell waves, are often found to be present prior to the initiation of rhythmicity. Furthermore, numerical model computations illustrate that swell waves induce significantly larger wave group induced velocities on the bar. These findings imply that the arrival of swell waves can initiate and stimulate the nearshore morphological rhythmicity","rhythmicity,; nearshore sandbars; wave groups","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:1105a978-9f9b-4d0c-ac3e-6451760081ec","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:1105a978-9f9b-4d0c-ac3e-6451760081ec","On the effectiveness of mangroves in attenuating cyclone induced waves","Narayan, S.; Suzuki, T.; Stive, M.J.F.; Verhagen, H.J.; Ursem, W.N.J.; Ranasinghe, R.","","2010","A study of the effectiveness of mangroves in attenuating cyclone- induced waves was done using the SWAN 40.81 numerical model. Hydraulic parameters during extreme events and local mangrove vegetation parameters were estimated for the Kanika Sands mangrove island near the upcoming Dhamra Port in Orissa, India. Simplified generic analyses were first conducted to obtain insights into the characteristics and behaviour of the model and the system. These were used to select relevant scenarios for simulations of actual conditions at the case-study site. The mangroves were found to be effective in reducing wave heights at the port behind the island though the effectiveness is limited by its geometry and distance from the port. The presence of vegetation has a marked effect though the effect of a variation in vegetation factor is limited. An optimum cross-shore width range for maximum protection was quantified.","Mangroves; Vegetation Factor; Cyclones; Wave Attenuation","en","conference paper","ASCE - Texas Digital Library","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:38b57dbf-a036-442a-b653-ba32475c2184","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:38b57dbf-a036-442a-b653-ba32475c2184","Morphodynamic upscaling with the MORFAC approach","Ranasinghe, R.W.M.R.J.B.; Swinkels, C.; Luijendijk, A.P.; Bosboom, J.; Roelvink, D.; Stive, M.J.F.; Walstra, D.J.R.","","2010","The Morphological Acceleration Factor (MORFAC) approach for morphodynamic upscaling enables the simulation of long term coastal evolution. However the general validity of the MORFAC concept for coastal applications has not yet been comprehensively investigated. Furthermore, a robust and objective method for the a priori determination of the highest MORFAC that is suitable for a given simulation (i.e. critical MORFAC) does not currently exist. This paper presents some initial results of an ongoing, long-term study that attempts to rigorously and methodically investigate the limitations and strengths of the MORFAC approach. Based on the results of a numerical modelling exercise using the morphodynamic model Delft3D, the main dependencies and sensitivities of the MORFAC approach are investigated. Also, a criterion is proposed for the a priori determination of the critical MORFAC, based on the CFL condition for bed form migration.","morphodynamic modelling; MORFAC; Delft3D; long term coastal evolution","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:f597504e-17c2-4d62-a809-7909f5295f2d","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:f597504e-17c2-4d62-a809-7909f5295f2d","Sediment exchange between the subaqueous and subaerial coastal zones","De Vries, S.; De Schipper, M.A.; Ranasinghe, R.W.M.R.J.B.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2010","The coastal system consists of a sub-aqueous and a sub-aerial zone which can be separated by a border. At this border sediment exchange takes place from one zone to the other. This paper hypothesizes that conditions and therefore sediment exchange at this border are dependent on active profile characteristics. To analyze morphological developments due to combined marine and aeolian processes data acquired at a measurement site located along the southwest Holland coast is exploited. Based on the monthly morphological profile measurements the border between the marine and aeolian zone is determined. It is found that during accretive conditions the vertical location of this border, and with that the conditions near the border, is dependent not on the foreshore slope of the surf/swash zone as expected but on the slope of the entire active profile.","Aeolian transport, Morphological measurements, active profile, coastline change","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:bb83285a-3a58-4df7-b5aa-637543a66964","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:bb83285a-3a58-4df7-b5aa-637543a66964","Empirical relationship between inlet cross-sectional area and tidal prism: A re-evaluation","Stive, M.J.F.; Ji, L.; Brouwer, R.L.; Van de Kreeke, J.; Ranasinghe, R.W.M.R.J.B.","","2010","The well-known empirical relationship between the equilibrium cross-sectional area of tidal inlet entrances (A) and the tidal prism (P), first developed by O’Brien (1931), has been extensively reviewed. Our theoretical investigations indicate that a unique A-P relationship should only be expected for clusters of inlets that are phenomenological similar (i.e. fairly similar hydrodynamic and morphological conditions), and that the exponent q in the A-P relation should be larger than 1. However, relevant published data available to date do not clearly support this theoretical finding. A re analysis of the available data sets by Stive et al. (2009) indicated that they may not be sufficiently reliable to verify our theoretical finding with regard to q>1 due to the violation of the condition of phenomenological similarity, and possibly also due to violating the initial definitions given by O’Brien (1931) in estimating the tidal prism. The resolution of this issue is important because slightly different values of q result in significantly variable values for the equilibrium cross-sectional area of the tidal entrance. This may have significant implications in determining the true stable equilibrium entrance cross-sectional area. Here we present a re-analysis of the available data with a focus on determining the phenomenological dependencies of the A-P relationship. The available A-P data from the US Pacific, Atlantic and Gulf coasts (Jarrett, 1976 and Powell, 2003) have been re-scrutinized and categorized following the above mentioned phenomenological similarity criteria, viz. similar tidal range, similar sediment size, similar littoral transport and similar hydraulic radius. All together, some 20 different categories were considered and A-P relationships were obtained for each category. Generally, high correlations were found between the stable inlet predicted by each A-P relationship and the corresponding data. However, only in a limited number of categories were they significantly better than the correlations for the complete datasets. Finally, we point out that only in a number of categories the q value associated with the A-P relationship exceeded unity as suggested by the theoretical derivations. In the majority of categories the q value associated with the A-P relationship does not exceed unity. This is truly disappointing, and we have no physical explanation for this and consider this issue unresolved.","inlets; tidal prism; empirical relationship; equilibrium cross-sectional area","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:2458b3cd-547f-47b3-949f-e5b3db27caa2","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2458b3cd-547f-47b3-949f-e5b3db27caa2","What determines nearshore sandbar response?","Smit, M.; Reniers, A.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2010","Nearshore sandbars appear with various patterns which may change over time. From observations, these changes seem to be related to changes in hydrodynamic conditions, although observed length scales could not be related directly to occurring wave conditions. The current work investigated the role of both the concurrent and previous hydrodynamics as well as the role of the pre-existing morphological variability of a nearshore bar system. A suite of modeling efforts using a depth-averaged process-based model was analysed on predicted length scales, response times and evolving levels of variability. It was found that with small or moderate hydrodynamic forcing, an existing pattern would remain. Only when the existing pattern was alongshore uniform, the bar pattern would change in response to the conditions. When the hydrodynamic conditions are extreme, an existing pattern can be erased, resulting in an alongshore uniform bathymetry – a reset-event","nearshore sandbars, morphodynamics, patterns, process-based modeling","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:354c3532-2a43-44eb-b18e-ac149675c2c7","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:354c3532-2a43-44eb-b18e-ac149675c2c7","Wave boundary layer hydrodynamics during onshore bar migration","Henriquez, M.; Reniers, A.; Ruessink, G.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2010","To study onshore bar migration and the accompanying intra-wave sediment transport a wave flume experiment was conducted. The wave flume had a rigid bottom with a single bar profile. The focus of the experiment was to measure the hydrodynamics in the wave bottom boundary layer. The results show that the skewness of bottom stress is not only related to wave skewness but also to wave asymmetry.","non-linear waves,; wave bottom boundary layer; bottom shear stress; nearshore morphology","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:db31899c-ca91-47a1-879e-4f4fa1d004e8","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:db31899c-ca91-47a1-879e-4f4fa1d004e8","A process-based approach to sediment transport in the Yangtze estuary","Chu, A.; Wang, Z.B.; De Vriend, H.J.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2010","A process-based model for the Yangtze Estuary is constructed to study the sediment transport in the estuary. The proposed model covers the entire tidal region of the estuary, the Hangzhou Bay and a large part of the adjacent sea. The dominant processes, fluvial and tidal, are included in the model. The calibration of the model against extensive flow, water level, salinity and suspended sediment data shows a good representation of observed phenomena. With the present calibrated and validated model, the residual flow field and the residual sediment transport field are obtained. The residual sediment transport pattern gives insight into the morphological behaviour of the mouth bars.","Yangtze Estuary; mouth bar; morphology; sediment transport; process-based model","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:604825d4-f218-40fc-b3b5-5f4280b2338d","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:604825d4-f218-40fc-b3b5-5f4280b2338d","Coastal defence cost estimates: Case study of the Netherlands, New Orleans and Vietnam","Hillen, M.M.; Jonkman, S.N.; Kanning, W.; Kok, M.; Geldenhuys, M.A.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2010","This study is part of a global study on the costs of adaptation to the effects of climate change. It adds information from three specific case studies (the Netherland, New Orleans and Vietnam) to the global study. The case study areas are comparable by type of coast; all are low-lying deltaic coastal areas. This study investigates the unit cost estimates of coastal defence for the full range of hard and soft engineering measures, such as dikes/levees, sea walls, (beach) nourishments and other measures, for example storm surge barriers. In considering the costs of coastal defence and adaptation to climate change different scale levels can be recognized. At the highest level of detail specific information from actual projects and designs can be utilized. This requires detailed insight in the actual design and as built status of coastal defence projects. By combining information from individual projects, cost estimates can be provided for one enclosed coastal defence system, e.g. a dike ring or polder in the Netherlands or New Orleans. Cost estimates at a national level can be obtained by aggregating information from different defence systems. For example, Kok et al. (2008) report estimates of the costs of adaptation of the flood defences in the Netherlands to different levels of sea level rise. This is done by combining assessments of the response of different sub systems and dike rings to the sea level rise. Finally, estimates for different systems and countries can be aggregated to cost estimates at a regional, continental or even global level.","sea defence; cost; dikes; sea level rise; adaptation cost","en","report","TU Delft, Department Hydraulic Engineering","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:50fad818-29e3-4b46-a045-14eb05c2143c","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:50fad818-29e3-4b46-a045-14eb05c2143c","Modeling of a mixed?load fluvio?deltaic system","Geleynse, N.; Storms, J.E.A.; Stive, M.J.F.; Jagers, H.R.A.; Walstra, D.J.R.","","2010","Present?day observations and classical classification schemes of alluvial deltas address feeder channel dynamics and multiple sediment fractions. However, high?resolution physics?based mathematical models have not been applied to address formation of both fluvio?deltaic links (channels) and nodes (diffluences and confluences), and their stratigraphy. Here, we present a simulated delta system under riverine forcing that shows striking similarity to its counterparts recognized in field and laboratory studies. These findings include distinct shifts in river planimetrical mode and altimetry, deltaic mouth bar and distributary formation, lateral fining in migrating?meander bend axes and fining?upward patterns in passive delta?plain distributaries.","delta; model","en","journal article","American Geophysical Union","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Geotechnology","","","",""
"uuid:88474bf9-2466-41cd-98f7-21cc8b51db03","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:88474bf9-2466-41cd-98f7-21cc8b51db03","Historical Morphological development of the Eastern Scheldt tidal basin (the Netherlands)","Eelkema, M.; Wang, Z.B.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2009","The Eastern Scheldt tidal basin has changed drastically in the past five centuries under the influence of both human interventions as well as extreme events. In 1530 A.D. a storm-surge inundated large parts in the landward end of the basin, and in the following four centuries local inhabitants reclaimed about as much land as was inundated in that storm. To investigate the effects of these processes on basin morphology, several different simplified geometries of the basin are used in order to gain insight into the evolution of the tidal currents over the centuries. From this model it appears that the large-scale inundations cause the basin to scour to greater depth. This in turn causes the ebb-tidal delta to grow, and causes the disappearance of the tidal watershed between the Eastern Scheldt and the Grevelingen tidal basins. Land reclamations have not been able to turn these trends around.","Tidal basin; Eastern Scheldt; Land reclamation; Inundation; Ebb-tidal delta; Tidal watershed","en","conference paper","World Scientific Publishing","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:2a14576d-03de-4775-9ecc-9e4be0dbe7c8","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2a14576d-03de-4775-9ecc-9e4be0dbe7c8","Rising seas and retreating coastlines","Ranasinghe, R.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2009","","","en","journal article","Springer","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:715d1cda-31d4-4987-87be-247cbb2d5529","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:715d1cda-31d4-4987-87be-247cbb2d5529","Surfing waves generated by a hull","De Schipper, M.A.; De Vries, S.; Henriquez, M.; Reniers, A.J.H.M.; De Koning Gans, H.J.; Labeur, R.J.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2009","In this paper a new wave pool concept is presented using ship hulls as wave generators. To evaluate the potential of such a concept a towing tank experiment is conducted to investigate ship wave generation in a confined space. In the towing tank experiment various hull sizes and velocities are examined to maximize the generated wave height. The laboratory data shows that when blocking of the cross section of the pool by the hull is large, the large return flow significantly influences the wave height. This is in contrast to the open water case where the return flow is much smaller and therefore is not incorporated in wave height predictions. Based on the results of the physical model tests an optimum hull size and velocity are derived to maximize the potential use for surfing and a preliminary design of the wave pool is proposed.","Wave generation; Wave current interaction; Ship waves; Surfing","en","conference paper","World Scientific Publishing","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:2f7472f0-2f7a-48ba-a4fa-7974bfdae63b","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2f7472f0-2f7a-48ba-a4fa-7974bfdae63b","On the scaling of sediment transport in the nearshore","Henriquez, M.; Reniers, A.J.H.M.; Ruessink, B.G.; Stive, M.J.F.; Stanton, T.P.; Foster, D.L.","","2009","Scale relations are necessary to choose proper sediment for physical models. The use of lightweight artificial sediment makes it possible to preserve the Reynolds number, Shields number and relative settling velocity altogether. There is also the possibility to preserve the Shields number in combination with the Dean number which would be more suitable in the case of significant wave breaking. Both cases have significant scale effects. A physical model test showed that the scale relations are useful under restricted conditions.","nearshore physical model; scaling rules; scaling criteria; artificial sediment; lightweight sediment","en","conference paper","IAHR","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","","","","",""
"uuid:34e4f76f-21cc-498d-89f4-7657994ec164","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:34e4f76f-21cc-498d-89f4-7657994ec164","Review of empirical relationships between inlet cross-section and tidal prism","Stive, M.J.F.; Rakhorst, R.D.","","2008","Although other engineers had considered the relationship between tidal prism and inlet crosssectional area before, it is O’Brien who is usually credited for deriving the familiar relationship A = aPm, where A is the cross-sectional area (relative to mean sea level) and P is the spring tidal prism. The coefficients a and m vary from entrance to entrance; however O’Brien (1969) showed that for 28 US entrances, a=4.69 10-4 and m=0.85 are best-fit values applicable to all entrances when P is measured in cubic meters (m³) and A in square meters (m²). Many different suggestions have been made in literature about the rationale behind the above relation. We explore here some theoretical elaborations inspired by this literature. The most popular elaboration is to express A in terms of the so named “stability shear stress”, which in the approaches of Gerritsen (1990) and Friedrichs (1995) is defined as the shear stress needed to maintain a zero net transport gradient along the channel, which is assumed close to the critical shear stress for sediment motion. However, one may claim as posed by Kraus (1998) that this shear stress is not necessarily equal to the critical shear stress, since a certain transport capacity is necessary to remove the sediment deposited by the littoral or alongshore drift. This contribution compares some theoretical elaborations both qualitatively and quantitatively, confront these with US and Dutch empirical data and discuss their pros and cons for practical applications.","tidal prism; inlet; inlet stability","en","journal article","Water Resources University, Hanoi","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:9a668b83-39c4-4dcd-a438-c936b090c526","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:9a668b83-39c4-4dcd-a438-c936b090c526","Hydrodynamics and morphodynamics of a seasonally forced tidal inlet system","Lam, N.T.; Stive, M.J.F.; Wang, Z.B.; Verhagen, H.J.; Thuy, V.T.T.","","2008","Hydrodynamics and morphodynamics of a seasonally forced tidal inlet system are investigated using numerical models. The ocean forcing including tidal and wave actions and sediment transport is simulated using Delft3D model. Fluvial processes in Delft3D are taken into account as results from SOBEK RURAL model. Analysis of the numerical simulation results allows enhancing insight the mechanisms behind the behaviours of the tidal inlet system in a tropical monsoon area, under the influences of river flow and seasonal wave actions.","tidal inlet; sobek; Vietnam; hydrodynamics; morphodynamics; monsoon","en","journal article","Hanoi Water Resources University","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:9fb481b4-6361-4d06-822c-419c330ed740","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:9fb481b4-6361-4d06-822c-419c330ed740","Using Stereo Photo Measurements to Analyze the Surfability of Ship Induced Waves","De Vries, S.; De Schipper, M.A.; Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M.; Uijttewaal, W.S.L.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2008","The objective of this paper is to demonstrate the use of Stereo Photogrammetry (SP) measuring ship-generated waves and to determine under which conditions they are suitable for surfing. A physical experiment is conducted to gain insight in ship wave behavior under specific conditions. Waves are generated by a hull and are measured using SP. It is concluded that the SP technique holds great potential in laboratory use and ship waves can potentially be used for surfing purposes.","stereo photogrammetry; wave field measurements; surfing; ship waves","en","conference paper","IAHR","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","","","","",""
"uuid:017326b9-5cdd-43cd-b6ba-a1f844b8250d","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:017326b9-5cdd-43cd-b6ba-a1f844b8250d","Proces-based modeling of the overflow induced growth of erosional channels","Tuan, T.Q.; Stive, M.J.F.; Verhagen, H.J.; Visser, P.J.","","2008","A new process-based approach is introduced for a more efficient computation of the overflow-induced growth of an erosional channel in a noncohesive homogeneous narrow landmass such as the breach growth in a sand-dike. The approach is easy to incorporate in a 1D/2DV morphodynamic model to compute the channel growth both vertically and laterally. The flow modeling is based on the shallow water equations. For modeling the channel growth, a set of closed equations describing the channel growth in both vertical and lateral direction has been derived in connection with several new morphologic parameters such as the representative channel width and the channel cross-sectional growth index. The approach has been applied to simulate the breach growth in sand-dikes and the morphological development of wave overwash across sand barriers. The computational results bear fairly good resemblance with existing experimental data.","overwash; breach growth modeling; wave overtopping; breach widening; breach deepening","en","journal article","Elsevier","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:94662043-2b79-484e-aaab-49da31a48e56","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:94662043-2b79-484e-aaab-49da31a48e56","Seasonal behaviour of tidal inlets in a tropical monsoon area","Lam, N.T.; Stive, M.J.F.; Verhagen, H.J.; Wang, Z.B.","","2008","Morphodynamics of a tidal inlet system on a micro-tidal coast in a tropical monsoon influenced region is modelled and discussed. Influences of river flow and wave climate on the inlet morphology are investigated with the aid of process-based state-of-the-art numerical models. Seasonal and episodic behaviour of the inlet system under the influence of the forcing processes is then described, modelled and explained.","tidal inlet; tidal lagoon; river flow; seasonal effect","en","conference paper","Copedec","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:4a5c608d-daba-4b43-9c5e-292eb594f6be","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:4a5c608d-daba-4b43-9c5e-292eb594f6be","Estimation of bed protection damage using numerical flow modelling","Hoan, N.T.; Booij, R.; Hofland, B.; Stive, M.J.F.; Verhagen, H.J.","","2008","The current research is aimed at evaluating the applicability of a numerical flow model to predict bed damage. First, an experimental study was carried out to get more inside into the relation between flow forces acting on a bed and the bed response (damage). The experiments were then used as the basis for the evaluation. Second, the flow was modeled using Deft incompressible flow solver developed at Delft University of Technology. Comparison between measurements and calculations of the flow fields shows a good agreement. The velocity distribution is reproduced very well while in most cases the turbulence intensity is underestimated in the bottom region. The measured and calculated stability parameters are in good agreement (error within ±10% ) though. The calculated bed damage (dimensionless entrainment rate, ?E ) has larger error (within ±50% ) due to its high sensitivity to the value of the stability parameters. However, this is reasonably good for bed damage prediction as the measurement of ?E already has an error within ±100% compared to its mean value.","bed stability; decelerated flow; shields; bed roughness","en","conference paper","Copedec","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:9993714a-1128-4954-9044-a8a9d69baff6","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:9993714a-1128-4954-9044-a8a9d69baff6","Morphodynamics of Hue tidal inlets, Vietnam","Lam, N.T.; Stive, M.J.F.; Verhagen, H.J.; Wang, Z.B.","","2007","Morphodynamics of a tidal inlet system on a micro-tidal coast in a tropical monsoon influenced region is modelled and discussed. Effects of tides, waves, river flows and system configuration on the inlet morphologies are investigated with the aid of process-based state-of-the-art numerical models. Seasonal and episodic behaviour of the inlet system under the influence of the forcing processes is then described, modelled and explained.","tidal inlet; coastal morphology; river runoff; inlet stability","en","conference paper","APAC","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:44979315-9fbd-4e00-bd36-9a0f1003e101","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:44979315-9fbd-4e00-bd36-9a0f1003e101","Decelerating open-channel flow in a gradual expansion","Hoan, N.T.; Booij, R.; Stive, M.J.F.; Verhagen, H.J.","","2007","The velocity and turbulence distributions of decelerating open-channel flow in a gradual expansion were measured using LDV equipment. The results show that the logarithmic law can describe the mean velocity in the bottom region well while the Coles’ law can be applied to the outer region. The shear velocity can be determined both by the logarithmic fit of the mean velocity and by the fit of the Reynolds stress distributions. The turbulence intensities reach their maximum values at z/h = 0.1 to z/h = 0.15. The turbulence intensities do increase along the expansion, especially in the outer region. This is more pronounced for larger Reynolds numbers. Both turbulence intensity and Reynolds stress distributions are found to deviate from the theoretical and empirical curves reported for uniform flow. This can be attributed to the secondary currents generated in the relatively narrow channel.","decelerating flow; bed turbulence; bed shear stress","en","conference paper","APAC","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:13d94dab-51b5-47b0-953e-efff4e38a7d8","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:13d94dab-51b5-47b0-953e-efff4e38a7d8","Morphodynamics of Hue tidal inlets","Lam, N.T.; Stive, M.J.F.; Verhagen, H.J.; Wang, Z.B.","","2007","Morphodynamics of a tidal inlet system on a micro-tidal coast in a tropical monsoon influenced region is modeled and discussed. Effects of tides, waves, river flows and system configuration on the inlet morphologies are investigated with the aid of process-based state-of-the-art numerical models. Seasonal and episodic behavior of the inlet system under the influence of the forcing processes is then described, modelled and explained.","tidal inlet; morhpodynamics; numerical model; Vietnam","en","conference paper","Water Resources University Hanoi","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:c241f58e-c948-4d59-9e9b-7134beafbfda","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c241f58e-c948-4d59-9e9b-7134beafbfda","Stone stability under decelerating open-channel flow","Hoan, N.T.; Booij, R.; Hofland, B.; Stive, M.J.F.; Verhagen, H.J.","","2007","The current research is aimed at finding a proper relation between flow forces acting on the bed and the bed response. To this end, experiments were carried out in which both the bed response (quantified by a dimensionless entrainment rate) and the flow field (velocity and turbulence intensity distributions) are measured. The three available stability parameters, which are used to quantify for the flow forces, were evaluated using the measured data. The focus of the evaluation is on the correlation of these stability parameters with the measured bed damage expressed in terms of the dimensionless entrainment rate. The experimental results confirm that the Shields stability parameter fails to predict bed damage for non-uniform flow conditions (R2=0.18). In contrast, the stability parameters of Jongeling et al. (2003) and Hofland (2005) give better damage predictions (R2 = 0.77). The results confirm the strong influence of the velocity and turbulence intensity distributions on the stability of bed material.","bed protection; stone stability; decelerating flow; turbulence; Shields","en","conference paper","World Scientific","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:f8127160-6f76-4cd5-bfc2-34f41fbd4cbb","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:f8127160-6f76-4cd5-bfc2-34f41fbd4cbb","Inleiding waterbouwkunde","Bezuyen, K.G.; Stive, M.J.F.; Vaes, G.J.C.; Vrijling, J.K.; Zitman, T.J.","","2007","In het college CT2320- lnleiding Waterbouwkunde- wordt een breed overzicht gegeven van de verschillende aspecten van het vak Waterbouwkunde. Dit houdt in dat informatie wordt gegeven over ontwerp en uitvoering van allertei soorten waterbouwkundige werken. Door de breedte van het onderwerp zal de diepgang in dit inleidende college beperkt moeten blijven. De nadruk zal worden gelegd op begrip, terwijl voor het kwantificeren veel gebruik zal worden gemaakt van vuistregels.","waterbouwkunde","nl","lecture notes","VSSD","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:c1b00eb3-66a2-40be-ab8c-7417f9c2476d","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c1b00eb3-66a2-40be-ab8c-7417f9c2476d","Stone stability under non-uniform flow","Hoan, N.T.; Booij, R.; Hofland, B.; Stive, M.J.F.; Verhagen, H.J.","","2007","The current research is aimed at finding a dimensionless stability parameter for non-uniform flow in which the effect of turbulence is incorporated. To this end, experiments were carried out in which both the bed response (quantified by a dimensionless entrainment rate) and the flow field (velocity and turbulence intensity distributions) are measured. A new stability parameter is proposed, which together with those of Shields [1], Jongeling et al. [2] and Hofland [3] was evaluated using the measured data. The focus of the evaluation is on the correlation of these stability parameters with the measured bed damage expressed in terms of the dimensionless entrainment rate. The experimental results confirm that the Shields stability parameter fails to predict bed damage for non-uniform flow conditions (R2=0.18). In contrast, Jongeling et al. [2], Hofland [3] and our new proposed stability parameters give better damage predictions (R2 = 0.77÷0.81). The results confirm the strong influence of the velocity and turbulence intensity distributions on the stability of bed material.","stone stability; bed protection; non-uniform flow; turbulence; Shields","en","conference paper","Arizona State University","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:75e05cdb-cfbe-4a27-899b-866ba6a34a6e","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:75e05cdb-cfbe-4a27-899b-866ba6a34a6e","Morphodynamics of tidal inlets in a tropical monsoon area","Lam, N.T.; Stive, M.J.F.; Verhagen, H.J.; Wang, Z.B.","","2007","Morphodynamics of a tidal inlet system on a micro-tidal coast in a tropical monsoon influenced region is modelled and discussed. Influences of river flow and wave climate on the inlet morphology are investigated with the aid of process-based state-of-the-art numerical models. Seasonal and episodic behaviour of the inlet system under the influence of the forcing processes is then described, modelled and explained.","tidal inlet; Hue; coastal morphology; inlet stability","en","conference paper","Black Sea Coastal Association","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:bddebe5b-7124-41db-ad4b-3bdba6a846c3","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:bddebe5b-7124-41db-ad4b-3bdba6a846c3","The influence of river floods on coastal inlet morphology","Lam, N.T.; Stive, M.J.F.; Verhagen, H.J.; Wang, Z.B.","","2007","The influence of river flood on the coastal inlet morphology is investigated with the aid of process based state-of-the-art numerical models. Hydrodynamics of tidal inlets during a severe flood situation and behavior of the inlets are described and explained.","tidal inlet; Vietnam; Hue; river flood","en","conference paper","Arizona State University","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:8f66e0c1-4841-468d-808c-0c64079e56fe","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8f66e0c1-4841-468d-808c-0c64079e56fe","Breaching vulnerability of coastal barriers under effects of tropical cyclones: A model study on the Hue lagoon - Vietnam","Tuan, T.Q.; Stive, M.J.F.; Verhagen, H.J.","","2006","Under effects of tropical cyclones, the coast is subjected to attack both by surge and wave from the sea and by flooding from the bay. These forces pose a serious breaching threat to natural sea-defence works such as barrier spits, barrier islands, lagoon barriers, etc. on the coast. Unintended breaching can be catastrophic, causing losses of human life and damages to infrastructures and to natural habitats. Understanding of coastal breaching and breaching potential during tropical cyclone events is therefore of great importance to the management of coastal flooding hazards as well as to the design of sea-defence works. In this paper, a model study on breaching vulnerability of the coastal lagoon barrier of Hue-Vietnam during the historical event of the tropical cyclone in 1999 is presented. In spite of scarceness of available data, attempts were successfully made to simulate the barrier profile response and the barrier breaching process under this extreme condition. It is learnt that seaward erosion and severe wave overwash on coastal barriers during storms can considerably narrow and lower the barrier profile and thus exaggerate significantly the barrier breaching potential. The model predictions for the barrier response to wave overwash and the time-dependent breach growth seem realistic and in agreement with available observation data.","barrier breaching; breacing potential; breach growth; lagoon barriers; wave overwash","en","conference paper","Guangdong Economy Publishing House","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:53768609-192a-4fc4-96fb-9b5d038e09b2","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:53768609-192a-4fc4-96fb-9b5d038e09b2","Morphodynamic modelling for Thuan An inlet, Vietnam","Lam, T.N.; Stive, M.J.; Verhagen, H.J.; Wang, Z.B.","","2006","Thuan An is a tidal inlet located in Vietnam in a tropical monsoon area. The inlet is very dynamic and variable under the influences of not only tides and waves from the sea but also flows and floods from upstream rivers. Therefore, morphodynamic behaviour of the inlet is very complicated and not well understood. Studies on inlet are also facing with problems of data insufficient. As an effort to gain more understanding on the tidal inlet behaviour, this paper presents a study of the inlet morphodynamics using a numerical modelling approach with the applications several modelling packages including DELFT3D and SOBEK-RURAL developed by WL|Delft Hydraulics. SOBEK has been used to simulate properly the floods in the rivers and on the floodplain. DELFT3D has been used to simulated hydrodynamics of the coastal waters and morphodynamics of the inlet. From the results of the numerical modelling experiments, some behavioural patterns of the inlet, like migration of the inlet channel, can be explained.","tidal inlet; hydrodynamics; morphology; numerical modelling","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:fe01c539-598f-42dd-91e9-726c433bccd0","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:fe01c539-598f-42dd-91e9-726c433bccd0","Modelling hydrodynamics in Eelgrass (Zostera Marina)","Dijkstra, J.T.; Uittenbogaard, R.E.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2006","In many areas around the world, there is a large interest in the protection and restoration of aquatic vegetation, like eelgrass (Zostera marina), but little is known about the interaction of such vegetation with its environment. To improve this knowledge, a model has been developed that simulates this interaction between highly flexible vegetation and hydrodynamics. The model consists of two parts: a 1DV k-? turbulence model that simulates the flow, and a model that simulates the movement of the vegetation, based on a Langrangian force balance. This model has been validated against our own measurements on positions and forces of flexible plastic strips, as well as hydrodynamic measurements from literature. It performs well in these situations, but the validation data is limited. Nevertheless, it can be considered to be a very useful and generic tool in studying flow processes in fields of flexible vegetation.","flexible vegetation; seagrass; turbulence; flume experiments","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:4c7f37da-c958-4f4a-a935-43e2651e5c54","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:4c7f37da-c958-4f4a-a935-43e2651e5c54","Coastal inlets and tidal basins","Stive, M.J.F.; de Vriend, H.J.; Dronkers, J.; van Dongeren, A.; Wang, Z.B.","","2006","","","en","lecture notes","TU Delft, Department Hydraulic Engineering","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:5fe73857-ad75-4b76-abe2-4ca391c894e0","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:5fe73857-ad75-4b76-abe2-4ca391c894e0","Wave overwash at low-crested beach barriers","Tuan, T.Q.; Verhagen, H.J.; Visser, P.J.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2006","To increase physical insight into wave overwash processes at low-crested beach barriers, wave overtopping discharge events rather than the conventional average overtopping discharge need to be quantified. Also, in order to make intelligent use of the many empirical formulations on wave overtopping discharge at breakwaters from literature, a single-valued appropriate slope for a natural beach needs to be derived. To resolve these issues, laboratory experiments of composite-slope low-crested barriers were carried out. The tests deal with overwash on a smooth non-uniform slope on shallow foreshores. The conventional average overtopping discharge concept does not represent the discontinuous character and associated strength of overtopping ow. Instead, e.g. for purposes of morphological modeling, wave overtopping should be treated as an event-based process. In this study, several new parameters such as the wave-averaged overtopping time, the relative total overtopping time, the overtopping asymmetry, the average maximum discharge and the average instantaneous discharge are defined and formulated. A new approach for defining an equivalent slope is proposed in the parameterization of the overtopping discharge that also takes into account effects of the wave period. It is experimentally shown to be an improvement over the conventional approach by Van der Meer (1998), especially eligible for low-crested sandy slopes such as barriers, dikes, dunes, etc on shallow foreshores.","equivalent slope; low crested; shallow foreshores; overwash; event-based; wave overtopping","en","journal article","World Scientific","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:d04ae18e-6332-4f7d-aac4-ddfa4d68934a","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:d04ae18e-6332-4f7d-aac4-ddfa4d68934a","Numerical modeling of wave overwash on low-crested sand barriers","Tuan, T.Q.; Verhagen, H.J.; Visser, P.J.; Stive, M.","","2006","For management of coastal breaching hazards it is critical to be able to assess the potential of coastal barrier breaching as a result of wave actions during storm surges (wave overwash). This phenomenon is known as the breach initiation phase; the mechanisms behind this are not very well understood. In the present study, laboratory experiments of mobile-bed (sand) barrier were carried out to increase the understanding of the processes of the barrier response during storm surges and also to generate data for calibrating a new numerical overwash model. A numerical model of the barrier response, which integrates the processes of beach and dune erosion and of wave overwash, has been developed. The approach of the UNIBEST-TC model (Bosboom et al., 2000) was adopted for modelling the processes of beach and dune erosion. For modeling wave overwash new overtopping parameters are introduced, based on the approach of Tuan et al. (2006). The model is capable of simulating the time-dependent barrier response during storm surges with occurrence of moderate to severe overwash. Overwash-induced effects on the cross-shore transport processes are also effectively incorporated. The model has been calibrated with the laboratory data on the barrier response (the barrier profile response and the overwash channel development). The process of the barrier response together with its major morphological features was fairly well predicted.","overwash; breaching; dunes; sand barriers","en","conference paper","World Scientific","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:c94363aa-4505-485f-bf0e-9fabdd5907ae","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c94363aa-4505-485f-bf0e-9fabdd5907ae","Incipient motion of coarse particles under regular shoaling waves","Terrile, E.; Reniers, A.J.H.M.; Stive, M.J.F.; Tromp, M.; Verhagen, H.J.","","2005","Incipient motion of coarse particles under regular shoaling waves is examined. Experiments are performed to investigate the effects of bed fluid acceleration on coarse particle stability. By varying wave height, wave period and water depth, combinations of similar peak orbital velocities and weak to strong intra-wave accelerations were created. The particles used in these experiments have two different sizes both of a centimeter order of- magnitude. The data confirm that acceleration is important for the initiation of motion, since combinations of similar orbital velocity and varying acceleration magnitude resulted in no motion, some motion and motion as acceleration increased. Qualitatively we found that initiation of motion occurs at or is very close to the maximum shear stress due to the combined effects of drag / lift and acceleration as introduced by Nielsen and Callaghan [Nielsen, P. and Callaghan, D.P. (2003), Shear stress and sediment transport calculations for swash zone modelling. Coastal Engineering, 47, pp. 347–354]. However, quantitatively their formulation does not lead to convincing discrimination between motion and nomotion. We expect this to be due to the assumption that the coefficients for drag / lift and acceleration in their formulation are taken equal and constant. From literature and from plotting our data against the Keulegan–Carpenter number we expect that these coefficients strongly vary due to flow separation effects. To arrive at a more convincing discrimination between motion and no-motion we introduce a new fluid acceleration descriptor for nonlinear shoaling waves. The combination of this descriptor with a Reynolds number Reg more clearly delineates the regions with particle motion and without particle motion and has the potential to serve as a descriptor of the incipient motion of coarse particles under nonlinear and skewed, regular waves.","incipient motion; skewed waves; wave acceleration; KC-number","en","journal article","Elsevier","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:44e4b9d3-a8dc-447c-a147-abf05a6dfca2","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:44e4b9d3-a8dc-447c-a147-abf05a6dfca2","Impacts of Hurricanes Frances and Jeanne on Two Nourished Beaches along the Southeast Florida Coast","Benedet, L.; Campbell, T.; Finkl, C.W.; Stive, M.J.F.; Spadoni, R.","","2005","Site inspections and beacli profile surveys of nourislied beaclies in the city of Boca Raton, and Town of Palm Beach, Florida show that the nourished beaches protected the shore from hurricane impacts in 2004. Striking the southeast coast of Florida within 20 days of each other. Hurricane Frances (Sept. 5, 2004) and Hurricane Jeanne (Sept. 25, 2004) had hurricane-force winds extending more than 120 miles from the center. The eye of Frances made landfall as a Category 2 storm and Jeanne made landfall as a Category 3 storm on the Saffir-Simpson Hurricane Intensity Scale, Above-average waves and surge affected the entire Florida east coast. Although these beaches were on the return or weak side (southwest quadrant with winds from the southwest as the eye traversed the shore) of both hurricanes, hurricane-uiduced waves affected the coast at least three days prior to landfall. Field inspection of the study sites after the passage of both hunicanes showed significant beach erosion and loss of berm elevation. Damage to infrastructure landward of the nourished beaches was minimal while non-nourished beaches located a few miles to the north and south of the renourished beaches sustained some damage. Beach profile surveys indicated that, as a general trend, beach and inner surfzone erosion was accompanied by the formation of well-developed storm bars seaward of pre-storm bars. Beach morphological responses at the town of Palm Beach were a function of offshore geomorphology of the reef system and the presence of high relief rock outcrops located within the surf zone. Sand that eroded from the renourished beach was deposited seaward of rock outcrops in the surf zone but the rock outcrops had no measurable sediment build up. Causes of the magmtude and trends of beach performance are hypothesized in an effort to explain the observed beach behavior.","Hurricane; Florida; storm surge; overwash","en","journal article","American Shore & Beach Preservation Association","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:b54e4876-3726-4c87-b578-e48304b334ce","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b54e4876-3726-4c87-b578-e48304b334ce","Motion threshold of coarse particles under regular shoaling waves","Stive, M.J.F.; Terrile, E.; Reniers, A.J.H.M.; Verhagen, H.J.","","2005","Threshold of motion of coarse particles under regular shoaling waves is studied. Experiments were performed to investigate the effects of bed fluid acceleration on coarse particle stability. By varying wave height, wave period and water depth combinations of similar peak orbital velocities and weak to strong intra-wave accelerations were created. Qualitatively we found that initiation of motion occurs at or is very close to the maximum shear stress due to the combined effects of drag/lift and acceleration as introduced by Nielsen and Callaghan (2003). However, quantitatively their formulation does not lead to convincing discrimination between motion and no motion. We expect this to be due to the assumption that the coefficients for drag/lift and acceleration in their formulation are taken equal. From literature and from plotting our data against the Keulegan-Carpenter number we expect that the coefficients strongly vary caused by flow separation effects.","incipient particle motion; skewed waves; wave acceleration; KC-number; bed stability","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:5454b130-7ca5-4bbc-baf3-4f332fbd03aa","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:5454b130-7ca5-4bbc-baf3-4f332fbd03aa","Coarse particles' threshold of motion under shoaling waves","Stive, M.J.F.; Reniers, A.J.H.M.; Terrile, E.; Verhagen, H.J.","","2005","The threshold of motion of coarse particles under regular shoaling waves is studied. Experiments are performed to investigate the effects of bed fluid acceleration on coarse particle stability. By varying wave height, wave period and water depth, combinations of similar peak orbital velocities and weak to strong intra-wave accelerations were created. Qualitatively we found that initiation of motion occurs at or is very close to the maximum shear stress due to the combined effects of drag/lift and acceleration as introduced by Nielsen and Callaghan (2003). However, quantitatively their formulation does not lead to convincing discrimination between motion and no motion. We expect this to be due to the assumption that the coefficients for drag/lift and acceleration in their formulation are taken equal and constant. From literature and from plotting our data against the Keulegan-Carpenter number we expect that these coefficients strongly vary due to flow separation effects.","shields; bed shear stress; shoaling waves","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:c1407273-bb5f-455c-a220-7f2bb7fca870","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c1407273-bb5f-455c-a220-7f2bb7fca870","Coastal inlets and Tidal basins","de Vriend, H.J.; Dronkers, J.; Stive, M.J.F.; van Dongeren, A.; Wang, Z.B.","","2005","","","en","lecture notes","TU Delft, Department Hydraulic Engineering","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:68cf6181-b249-4305-b1a2-df9077276a06","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:68cf6181-b249-4305-b1a2-df9077276a06","Delft Cluster - coasts: Final report","Wijnberg, K.M.; Ruessink, B.G.; Stive, M.J.F.; Van der Spek, A.J.F.; Walstra, D.J.R.","","2003","","Coast-basin interaction; long-term; medium-term; morphology; scale cascade","en","report","Delft Cluster","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:cd41a4ae-2372-4960-a179-344a5387bbd2","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:cd41a4ae-2372-4960-a179-344a5387bbd2","Artificial Island","Stive, M.J.F.","","2003","Short overview of history and effect islands in front of the coast.","artificial island","en","book chapter","Springer","","","","","","Campus only","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:3ab6c2a8-957b-461b-bd39-b6be7ba8094d","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:3ab6c2a8-957b-461b-bd39-b6be7ba8094d","The Netherlands: The Zuyder zee project","Stive, M.J.F.; Waterman, R.E.","","2002","Summary of the inpoldering of the Zuiderzee (to IJsselmeer).","IJsselmeer; polders; land reclamation","en","book chapter","Kluwer Academic Publishers","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:fc9bcc67-48db-4763-a121-86c7656099e4","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:fc9bcc67-48db-4763-a121-86c7656099e4","Coastal inlets and tidal basins","De Vriend, H.J.; Dronkers, J.; Stive, M.J.F.; Van Dongeren, A.; Wang, J.H.","","2002","lecture note: Tidal inlets and their associated basins (lagoons) are a common feature of lowland coasts all around the world. A significant part ofthe world's coastlines is formed by barrier island coasts, and most other tidal coasts are interrupted by estuaries and lagoon inlets. These tidal systems play a crucial role in the sediment budget ofthe coastal zone and thus influence the long-term coastal evolution. From a morphological point of view, tidal inlets form highly dynamical systems, which are interlinked with the adjacent coast and the tidal basin or backbarrier area to which they give access. Often, the natural morphodynamic behaviour interferes with unnatural constraints (e.g. coastal defence works) and with the effects of human utilisation (e.g. sand mining). Estuaries and tidal lagoons attract a variety of human activities, such as navigation, recreation, fishing and aquaculture, economical activity in the border zone, sand mining, land reclamation and in some cases hydrocarbon mining. On the other hand, many estuaries and lagoons form the basis of highly valuable and sometimes unique ecosystems. They function as nursery grounds for many species and as resting and feeding grounds for many others. Hence human activities which affect the properties of such a system, or put the environmental functions otherwise at risk, may have important environmental implications. For the proper management of these systems, it is therefore most important to be able to predict the impacts of such activities. At a larger scale, a deficit of sediment in the backbarrier area, due to sea level rise, for instance, can have major effects on the sediment budget of the coastal zone. The outer deltas of the inlets seem to act as sediment buffers, but the ultimate source of the sediment which goes to the backbarrier area is the coast. Since long-term coastal zone management should include sediment management, the capability to predict the large-scale exchange of sediment is of great importance to ICZM (Integrated Coastal Zone Management). The inlets and their outer deltas play a key role in this exchange. These lectures intend to develop an insight into the physical functioning of coastal inlets and tidal basins, such that possible engineering inten/entions are executed from a sustainable, holistic and integrated management perspective. The emphasis will be on inlet and basin systems which are subject to a mixed tidal and wave forcing, with negligible fresh water runoff, typical examples being the Wadden Sea and the Zeeland inlets and basins. Foreign examples are typically barrier-inlet coasts, such as found abundantly along the east-coast of the USA. This implies that fresh and salt water dynamics are not of strong relevance, and that the morphodynamics of these systems are largely determined by the interaction between the coarser sediment (fine to medium sands) and the tide and wave induced water motions.","tidal inlet; tidal basin; waddenzee; collegediktaat wa5303","en","lecture notes","TU Delft, Section Hydraulic Engineering","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:932d7e19-8b28-4bad-9265-4075b5fdc0c4","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:932d7e19-8b28-4bad-9265-4075b5fdc0c4","A new morphological schematization of the Western Scheldt estuary, The Netherlands","Wang, Z.B.; Stive, M.J.F.; Winterwerp, J.C.; Arends, A.P.; Jeuken, C.; Kuijper, C.; Thoolen, P.M.C.","","2001","The present paper describes an analysis of the morphological integrityof the multiple channel system (MCS) of the Western Scheldt estuary. The tidal flats and surrounding ebb and flood channels form morphological cells, and the entire MCS can be schematized as a chain of such cells. The major ebb and flood channels have lost their one time function to feed and drain large tidal basins along the estuary. It is hypothesized that the MCS is now self-preserving as a result of the large gross sediment transport rates through these channels and the asymmetry of the channel system. From a stability analysis and computation of the gross sediment transports through the channels, the local and overall capacity of the estuary could be established to accommodate for the dumping of sediments dredged in the fairways of the estuary to safeguard navigation. This capacity compared favorably with the experience of the managing authorities. The scheme is used to evaluate a series of managing scenarios.","morphology; estuary; sedimentation","en","conference paper","IAHR","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:8e15cd0c-7491-490d-9229-706937c6596e","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8e15cd0c-7491-490d-9229-706937c6596e","Eco-morphodynamic processes in the Rhine-Meuse-Scheldt delta and the Dutch Wadden Sea","De Brouwer, J.; Crosato, A.; Dankers, N.; Van Duin, W.; Herman, P.M.J.; Van Raaphorst, W.; Stive, M.J.F.; Talmon, A.M.; Verbeek, H.; De Vries, M.B.; Van der Wegen, M.; Winterwerp, J.C.","Deltares","2001","Description of eco-morphodynamic processes in the Dutch deltas.","Delta; Eco morphology","en","report","Delft Cluster","","","","","","","","","","","","Delft Cluster",""
"uuid:c9460d02-fe43-497e-93d7-34a47ba0e578","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c9460d02-fe43-497e-93d7-34a47ba0e578","Vergelijking van bestaande lange-termijn morfologische modellen: Mogelijkheden en beperkingen in gebruik en visie op ontwikkeling lange-termijn modellering","Eysink, W.D.; Walstra, D.J.R.; Stive, M.J.F.","","2001","","morfodynamische modellen; morphodynamic models; kustmodellen; coastal models; kustmorfologie; coastal morphology; kustlijnontwikkeling; coastline development","nl","report","Deltares (WL)","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:e0dd3dc4-7f15-4697-b3b7-50762a2bbaa5","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e0dd3dc4-7f15-4697-b3b7-50762a2bbaa5","Eco-morphodynamic processes in the Rhine-Meuse-Scheldt delta and the Dutch Wadden Sea","Tanczos, I.; de Brouwer, J.; Crosato, A.; Dankers, N.; van Duin, W.; Herman, P.M.J.; van Raaphorst, W.; Stive, M.J.F.; Talmon, A.M.; Verbeek, H.; de Vries, M.B.; van der Wegen, M.; Winterwerp, J.C.","","2001","","","en","report","Delft Cluster","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:e1cf86d1-aa7c-4d92-b3cd-731241ec364a","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e1cf86d1-aa7c-4d92-b3cd-731241ec364a","College fysica van kustsystemen","Dronkers, J.; Stive, F.J.M.","NCK (Nederlands Centrum voor Kustonderzoek)","2001","-In het college worden kusttypen behandeld met een sedimentaire struktuur (zand, slib). Kusten van hard materiaal (rotskusten, ... ) blijven buiten beschouwing. We beginnen daar waar de invloed van de zee zich het verst stroomopwaarts laat voelen, d.w.z. bij de getijrivier. Een getijrivier is het zeewaartse deel van een rivier, waar het zeewater niet doordringt, maar het oceaan-getij wel. De zee naderend komen we in het estuarium; dat is de riviermonding waar niet alleen het getij, maar ook het zeewater de rivier binnendringt. Vaak komt het estuarium niet direkt uit op zee, maar op een getijdebekken. Dit is een vloed-delta die is ontstaan door indringing van de zee in het laagland. Het is een gebied met een complexe en dynamische geometrie, gevormd door vertakkende geulen, platen, slikken en schorren (kwelders). De overgang naar zee wordt gevormd door een zeegat, met buitengaats een ebdelta. Aan weerszijden van het zeegat ligt een gestrekte zandkust, waarvan de dynamiek sterker wordt bepaald door korte golven (windgolven, deining) dan door het getij. Tenslotte wordt de kustzee behandeld, waarbij zowel wordt gekeken naar de waterbeweging (getij, windgedreven stroming, etc.), naar transport en menging van het rivierwater en naar de dynamiek van bodemstructuren. De belangrijkste leerdoelen van het college zijn: • het begrijpen waarom kustsystemen er zo uit zien als ze er uit zien: waarom op veel schaalniveau's complexe structuren ontstaan met bepaalde universele karakteristieken en waarom deze morfologische structuren fluctueren in de tijd, • het kunnen analyseren hoe kustsystemen reageren op verandering, bij voorbeeld de respons op klimaatverendering en zeespiegelstijging of de respons op waterbouwkundige ingrepen zoals baggeren, bedijken of inpolderen.","kustzeeën; kustsystemen; getijrivieren; riviermondingen; getijdebekkens; zandkusten","nl","report","Universiteit Utrecht, IMAU","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:8c8c7b76-8c19-4715-8789-5defe7a53a91","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8c8c7b76-8c19-4715-8789-5defe7a53a91","Morphology an morphodynamics of the Wadden Sea","Crosato, A.; Stive, M.J.F.","Van der Spek, A.J. (contributor)","2000","Geological and morphological description of the Wadden Sea, description of the present situation.","Wadden Sea; tidal inlet; tidal lagoon; barrier island","en","report","Delft Cluster","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:220f16c0-30ab-44c9-b701-1a1990dc8fd5","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:220f16c0-30ab-44c9-b701-1a1990dc8fd5","Lange termijn visie Schelde-estuarium cluster morfologie: Uitvoeringsfase","Winterwerp, J.C.; Jeuken, M.C.J.L.; Helvert, M.A.G. van; Kuijper, C.; Spek, A.J.F. van der; Stive, M.J.F.; Thoolen, P.M.C.; Wang, Z.B.","","2000","","morfodynamische modellen; morphodynamic models; morfologie; morphology; riviermorfologie; river morphology; Schelde; estuaria; estuaries; onderzoek; research","nl","report","Deltares (WL)","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:d36b4c0b-adcb-4761-b29e-bf778eeceac0","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:d36b4c0b-adcb-4761-b29e-bf778eeceac0","Lange termijnvisie Westerschelde: Cluster morfologie","Winterwerp, J.C.; Jeuken, M.C.J.L.; Stive, M.J.F.; Vriend, H.J. de","","2000","","Westerschelde; estuariene morfologie; estuarine morphology; veiligheid; safety; scheepvaart; shipping; natuur; nature","nl","report","Deltares (WL)","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:d86210cc-1326-4386-906e-a5d4f0f7b9f4","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:d86210cc-1326-4386-906e-a5d4f0f7b9f4","Beoordeling morfologische effecten van een vliegveld in zee: EMA-morfologie","Stive, M.J.F.","","1999","","vliegvelden; airfields; kunstmatige eilanden; artificial islands; kustmorfologie; coastal morphology","nl","report","Deltares (WL)","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:9264c44d-6978-4eac-87d7-aebecfd22a3d","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:9264c44d-6978-4eac-87d7-aebecfd22a3d","Expert judgement morfologische ontwikkeling grootschalige zandwinning","Stive, M.J.F.; Meerendonk, E. van; Rijn, L.C. van; Weck, A.W. van der; Walstra, D.J.R.; Roelvink, J.A.","","1998","","zandwinning; sand dredging; Noordzee; kustmorfologie; coastal morphology","nl","report","Deltares (WL)","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:19140979-7ed6-40ff-9733-2fcdb5a197fb","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:19140979-7ed6-40ff-9733-2fcdb5a197fb","Definitiestudie morfologische dynamiek Westerschelde","Stive, M.J.F.; Wang, Z.B.; Weck, A.W. van der; Boogaard, H.F.P. van den; Baptist, M.J.","","1998","","morfodynamica; morphodynamics; Westerschelde","nl","report","Deltares (WL)","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:b2090c25-6bc9-43b8-9a42-e561bdda574f","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b2090c25-6bc9-43b8-9a42-e561bdda574f","Quantitative assessment of surf-produced sea spray aerosol","Neele, F.P.; De Leeuw, G.; Jansen, M.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1998","The first results are presented from a quantitative model describing the aerosol production in the surf zone. A comparison is made with aerosol produced in the surf zone as measured during EOPACE experiments in La Jolla and Monterey. The surf aerosol production was derived from aerosol concentration gradients measured downwind from the surf zone, after correction for the background size distribution that was measured upwind from the wave breaking zone. The aerosol production model was originally developed from measurements performed along the Baltic coast. The model predicts the aerosol production from the total energy dissipated in the wave breaking zone, calculated from the coastal bathymetry and deep-water surface wave field. In the present work, the parameterisation of the aerosol production in the wave breaking zone is maintained, but the energy dissipation in the wave breaking zone is calculated using a different model that produces more realistic surf zone widths. Wave data were obtained from buoys off the Californian coast, while bathymetry data were supplied by the Scripps Institute of Oceanography. Observed and predicted aerosol production in the surf zone are in good agreement, for both sites. The predicted aerosol flux reproduces the day-to-day variations and even some of the observed variations on a time scale of several hours.","sea spay; surf action; wind spray","en","conference paper","SPIE-The International Society for Optical Engineering","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:cda9b888-d60e-41aa-a95b-c9d988e48d1f","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:cda9b888-d60e-41aa-a95b-c9d988e48d1f","Artificial island in the North Sea and options for coastal development","Stive, M.J.F.; Dijkman, J.P.M.; Baan, P.J.A.; Villars, M.T.; De Graaff, R.F.","TU Delft","1998","A large-scale project such as the construction of an offshore island requires careful consideration not only of the direct effects of such intervention, but also of the implications for the further evolution of the Dutch coast. It is found that the construction of an offshore island is technically possible and - i f optimally shaped and carefully placed - would have only limited effects on the marine and coastal environment which could be compensated for. I f only the island were built, the already limited resilience of the Dutch coast would be even further decreased, because more coastal maintenance will be necessary. But i f the island is combined with other measures, like locally increasing the nearshore sand volumes by e.g. seaward protruding sand hooks, the resilience of the coast will improve. For this reason an indepth discussion is recommended about the long-term future of the Dutch coast.","artificial island; North Sea","en","report","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:df609ca4-e8d8-495c-a2c4-f679df9dfe32","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:df609ca4-e8d8-495c-a2c4-f679df9dfe32","Cross-shore Flow in Waves Beaking on a Beach","Stive, Marcel J.F.","","1998","","hydrodynamics; waves","","doctoral thesis","","","","","","","","","Mechanical, Maritime and Materials Engineering","Marine and Transport Technology","Ship Hydromechanics and Structures","","",""
"uuid:2b1439d4-a268-489f-a284-b44a6483141c","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2b1439d4-a268-489f-a284-b44a6483141c","Biogeomorphology of large-scale coastal land reclamations","Stive, M.J.F.; Nauta, T.","","1997","Projections are that Rotterdam, one of the worlds' largest harbours, will be in need of 1250 hectares of additional harbour area within the next 15 years. To meet this demand a substantial land reclamation (""Maasvlakte-2"") is considered, which could provide 1000 hectares of new harbour areas and 750 hectares for nature and recreation. In addition, just north of the Rotterdam harbour area a land reclamation is considered to relieve the urban development of The Hague (""Nieuw Holland""). Delft Hydraulics was commissioned to investigate the morphological impacts of four land reclamation ahematives and associated sand mining scenarios. The area of impact investigated extended approximately 25 kilometres north and south of the planned land reclamation and some 50 kilometres seaward.","reclamation; biogeomorphology; Maasvlakte II","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:1752d999-39c3-4c94-8d36-e628a7be1afa","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:1752d999-39c3-4c94-8d36-e628a7be1afa","Behaviour oriented model for the evaluation of long-term lagoon-coastal dynamic interaction along the Po River Delta","Stive, M.J.F.; Ruol, P.; Capobianco, M.; Buijsman, M.","","1997","","Coastal engineering Mathematical models Rivers Sediment transport Tides Lagoon coastal dynamics 407.3 (Coastal Engineering) 921 (Applied Mathematics) 444.1 (Surface Water) 631.3 (Flow of Fluid Like Materials) 471.4 (Seawater, Tides and Waves)","en","conference paper","American Society of Civil Engineers","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:52285484-7d63-418f-806e-ebc61db8bbf2","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:52285484-7d63-418f-806e-ebc61db8bbf2","Coastal management: Global change. global observation?","Stive, M.J.F.; Baarse, G.; Misdorp, R.","","1997","","netherlands","en","conference paper","Elsevier","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:7f147843-9115-431e-bd9a-2f35ef62b268","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:7f147843-9115-431e-bd9a-2f35ef62b268","Bar migration and duneface oscillation on decadal scales","Stive, M.J.F.; Guillen, J.; Capobianco, M.","","1997","","Coastal zones Geomorphology Beaches Water waves Duneface oscillation Nearshore morphology Migratory bar system 407.3 (Coastal Engineering) 481.1.1 (Geomorphlogy) 471.4 (Seawater, Tides and Waves)","en","conference paper","Asce","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:9ec3e165-dbbf-4e95-9845-282a5ef1a24c","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:9ec3e165-dbbf-4e95-9845-282a5ef1a24c","Impact of Climatic Change on NW Mediterranean Deltas","Sánchez-Arcilla, A.; Jímenez, J.A.; Pont, D.; Capobianco, M.; Prat, N.; Provansal, M.; Fraunié, P.; Ruol, P.; Abrami, G.; De Vriend, H.J.; Day, J.W.; Stive, M.J.F.; Jelgersma, S.; Pernetta, J.; Sestini, G.","TU Delft","1997","Summary report of the MedDelt project. This project has studied the impact of climate change on the deltas in the northwestern Mediterranean sea.","climate change; Delta","en","report","Meddelt","","","","","","","","","","","","Meddelt",""
"uuid:341a074c-e37d-45a4-a898-0311569ea34b","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:341a074c-e37d-45a4-a898-0311569ea34b","Coastal management: Global change .... global observation?","Stive, M.J.F.; Baarse, G.; Misdorp, R.","","1996","The theme of the present discussion is to consider coastal observation needs in the broader context of a sustainable, integrated management response to coastal change. Thus underlining the notion that observations are an element of a more comprehensive process. We will therefore first explore the process of ICZM, and find that deficits in international co-ordination and concertation are large. An overview of salient coastal zone issues emphasises the spatial, spectral and temporal diversity of observational needs, which is concluded to be an important reason for the relative underdevelopment of coastal zone observation systems. A ""global"" coastal observation effort should give due consideration to these aspects, and aim to help resolve this in concertation with national and international institutions carrying responsibility for a sustainable development of the coastal zone. The interpretation of the meaning of global appears to be twofold, global in the sense of a generic, universal need (although many coastal problems are local), and global in the sense of institutionalisation and co-ordination on a global level.","","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:004742f6-96d1-4721-a566-830b352c3a9a","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:004742f6-96d1-4721-a566-830b352c3a9a","Resultaten NCK workshop ""Zeegaten en Getijbekkens"", Ameland, 28 september 1996","Van der Spek, A.; Stive, M.J.F.","De Vriend, H. (contributor); TU Delft","1996","Workshop inzake onderzoek naar zeegaten en getijbekkens.","tidal inlet; zeegat","nl","report","TU Delft, sectie waterbouw","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:32c25850-9e22-4720-9539-fc3c252511ac","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:32c25850-9e22-4720-9539-fc3c252511ac","The dynamics of microtidal lagoons and adjacent coasts","Stive, M.J.F.; Capobianco, M.; Wang, Z.B.; Ruol, P.","","1996","We have formulated an aggregated-scale behaviour-model for the interaction between a tidal basin and its adjacent coastal environment, without adopting a priory assumptions about their independent dynamic equilibrium behaviour. Necessarily so, the model combines observations and findings resuhing from analogical model applications. The model formulation is based on earlier concepts regarding the response of individual tidal system elements on a disturbance from their dynamic equilibrium state. Here, we have extended the earlier work by including interactions with the ebb-tidal delta and the directly adjacent coast. Results for schematized and real cases are discussed.","tidal inlet; tidal lagoon","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:d677bb4a-87de-41f6-9778-aade5b99638e","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:d677bb4a-87de-41f6-9778-aade5b99638e","Climate change impact on the deltas of Ebro, Po and Rhone: Conceptual models for coastal fringes’ response","Capobianco, M.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1996","All the Mediterranean Dehas are submitted to a physical regression of their coastal fringes and dominated by the wave action because of the decreased water and sediment discharges, if compared to previous stages of their histories. The decrease of the discharges is a consequence of water and solid retention and deviation in the continental watershed and of the relative sea level rise, caused (mainly) by the land subsidence in the deltas and (to an extent that is difficuh to quantify with the present knowledge) by the eustatic sea level rise enhanced by the global climatic change. This paper aims to summarize the work undertaken in the MEDDELT Project regarding the characterisation of the dynamical morphological processes of the coastal fringes of the deltas of Ebro, Po and Rhone and in particular highlight the conceptual developments achieved regarding their integrated modelling. We define the coastal fringes to be those regions of the deltaic areas where there is typically a direct influence of sea dynamics on the evolution of the morphological characteristics on a time scale of decades. In practice, in both the deltas of Po and Rhone such areas may be delimited by sea dikes. This assumption rises the requirement to consider not just the direct natural mechanisms of influence but also the direct human induced ones, particularly in the long term evolution of these fringes. We start by discussing the relation between sea-level rise and coastal erosion and the ""pros and cons"" of applying the classical Bruun approach. We briefly describe the problem of definition of scales, the computation of budget and the physiographic unh approach with reference to climatic change related phenomena impacting on the fringes. We then focus on the modelling of the formation and reduction processes and the application of the physiographic unit approach. We conclude by introducing the topic of application of the models in an integrated framework as decision support tools.","delta; climate change","en","conference paper","Meddelt","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:baee2b79-35ae-49b0-a0e9-69972f8f534d","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:baee2b79-35ae-49b0-a0e9-69972f8f534d","Impact of climatic change on the Po Delta: Deltaic fringe modelling","Capobianco, M.; Stive, M.J.F.; Ruol, P.","","1996","With the present paper we aim at summarizing the work undertaken in the MEDDELT Project on the characterisation of the dynamical processes of the Po Delta Fringe and particulalry highlight the conceptual developments achieved about the integrated modelling. We assume to be in a region of the deltaic area where there is tipically a direct influence of sea dynamics on the evolution of the morphological characters on a time scale of decades. In practice in the Po Delta such area is delimited by sea dikes. This assumption rises the requirement to consider not just the direct natural mechanisms of influence but also the direct human induced ones particularly in the long term evolution of the Po Delta fringe. We briefly describe the problem of definition of scales, the computation of budget and the physiographic unit approach with reference to climatic change related phenomena impacting on the Po Delta fringe. As a first approach we go deeper into the application of the classical Bruun approach in the evaluation of the effects of relative sea level rise in the coastal area. We then focus on the modelling of the formation and reduction processes and on the application of the physiographic unit approach. We conclude by discussing the topic of predictability and application of the models in an integrated framework as decision support tools.","Po delta; Delta; climate change","en","conference paper","Meddelt","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:07f67ef0-45a5-498f-8272-2690e8b3b9e1","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:07f67ef0-45a5-498f-8272-2690e8b3b9e1","Impacts of sea-level rise on the Ebro Delta: A first approach. Coastal zone management in the Mediterranean","Sanchez-Arcilla, A.; Jimenez, J.A.; Stive, M.J.F.; Ibanez, C.; Pratt, N.; Day, J.W.J.; Capobianco, M.; Ozhan, E.","","1996","","Ebro River Spain sea level salinity temperature natural resources deltas climate global change physical models changes of level eustacy coastal environment shorelines landform evolution ecology economics modern Riviere Ebre Espagne Niveau marin Salinite T; netherlands","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:f5bf466d-064b-4522-80c5-f18bb406b8ae","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:f5bf466d-064b-4522-80c5-f18bb406b8ae","De kust is vrij; pleidooi voor een dynamische omgang met het raakvlak land-zee","Stive, M.J.F.","","1995","","Intreerede","nl","public lecture","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:6a2cf2fd-551d-44d9-8526-52b9bc1957dd","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:6a2cf2fd-551d-44d9-8526-52b9bc1957dd","Advances in Modelling of Large Scale Coastal Evolution","Stive, M.J.F.; De Vriend, H.J.","","1995","The attention for climate change impact on the world's coastlines has established large scale coastal evolution as a topic of wide interest. Some more recent advances in this field, focusing on the potential of mathematical models for the prediction of large scale coastal evolution, are discussed. The key element in this discussion is reduction: of inputs, models, outputs and measured data.","coastal evolution; coastal model; coastlines","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:15dee5de-dc45-47ce-ba30-242ce06d7165","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:15dee5de-dc45-47ce-ba30-242ce06d7165","Modeling shoreface profile evolution","Stive, M.J.F.; De Vriend, H.J.","","1995","Current knowledge of hydro-, sediment and morpho-dynamics in the shoreface environment is insufficient to undertake shoreface-profile evolution modelling on the basis of first physical principles. We propose a simple, panel-type model to map observed behaviour. The internal dynamics are determined by slope-dependent, wave-induced cross-shoreface transports, while the external driving factors are lateral sediment supply and sea-level rise. This model concept is tested with reasonable success against the observed behaviour of the Central Holland Coast, considering two hindcast periods, one covering the evolution over the last century, the other the Subboreal/Subatlantic evolution. A limitation of this model is that the cross-shoreface dynamics are solely steered by the variations of shoaling, short waves. Since a variety of other wave and current dynamics may be expected to be present in the coastal boundary layer, it may well be that the effects of the mechanisms and conditions which are not represented are hidden in the coefficients of the sediment-transport formula. This limits the accuracy of the coefficients as used, and our findings should be considered as an-order-of-magnitude estimate only. Indeed, behaviour-oriented modelling implies that generalization of results to arbitrary situations and conditions is not straightforward. Yet, we expect that some of the conclusions are more generally applicable. This concerns the substantiation of the assumption that the upper shoreface responds on a much smaller time scale than the lower shoreface, and the idea that the shoreface profile is not always and everywhere in equilibrium with its forcing. A worthwhile observation from the Holland Coast application is, that the bottom slope effect on the transport is only important at geological time scales. The profile evolution at the engineering time scales (say 10 to lOO years) is effectively quasi-static, in that there is no feedback between the long-term averaged transport and the state of the profile. This implies that at these smaller scales the profile changes can be predicted on the basis of a static sediment balance. This does not mean that the gravitational downslope transport is unimportant as a physical phenomenon in coastal profile evolution: It is only unimportant if a highly aggregated model like this is applied at relatively short time scales.","coastal profile","en","journal article","Elsevier","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:88927b49-55eb-4d1b-bc91-bca4ba061222","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:88927b49-55eb-4d1b-bc91-bca4ba061222","A survey of integrated coastal zone management experiences","Stive, M.J.F.","","1995","Coastal problems that stem from human activities are almost always rooted in resource use conflicts. Since the majority of the world's population lives in coastal areas, such conflicts can only be expected to increase. As population growth continues, the pressure to develop coastal areas for housing, industry, tourism, aquaculture, fisheries, and other uses, will intensify these conflicts, Furthermore, these developments take place in a dynamic natural coastal environment where the hazardous conditions caused by climate variability and climate change will impose additional stresses. The main objective of any government policy is, basically, to encourage changes in human behaviour in order to achieve desired goals. In this process, the main purpose of management is to provide the conditions that will facilitate development and stimulate progress. In general, the goals are specified targets related to the desired mix of goods, services and values to be produced, consumed, or conserved, ICZM is such a management process, which can anticipate and respond to the needs of the coastal society. Public participation in the planning and implementation of ICZM is there-fore essential. The management procedure generally comprises a set of related tasks, all of which must be carried out to achieve a desired set of objectives. The basis steps involved in the management cycle are: problem recognition, analysis and planning, implementation of measures, operation and maintenance, and monitoring and evaluation of the effectiveness of the measures in relation to the stated objectives. The way in which this process is executed will depend to a large extend on cultural, political, economic and historical conditions, and its success will therefore depend on the degree of public endorsement achieved.","integrated coatal zone management","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:7487d9f7-bdb7-449c-b303-1ad78c920927","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:7487d9f7-bdb7-449c-b303-1ad78c920927","De kust is vrij; pleidooi voor een dynamische omgang met het raakvlak land-zee","Stive, M.J.F.","","1995","","redevoering TBA / Civiele techniek: algemeen / Civil engineering: general TPN / Waterkeringen / Water-retaining structures","nl","lecture notes","Waterloopkundig Laboratorium","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:ea8dc765-c8ed-43b2-bc62-8ecac93e809c","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:ea8dc765-c8ed-43b2-bc62-8ecac93e809c","Performance of a spectral wind-wave model in shallow water","Van Vledder, G.P.; De Ronde, J.G.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1995","","Water waves Mathematical models Forecasting Energy dissipation Coastal zones Coastal engineering Oceanography Wave prediction model Surf breaking Wave energy loss Shallow water Nonlinear triad interactions Water wave energy Abreu formulation 471.4 (Seawat","en","conference paper","American Society of Civel Engineers","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:c5c03954-b324-4315-846b-2770d3cac034","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c5c03954-b324-4315-846b-2770d3cac034","Holocene Storm-Surge Signatures in the Coastal Dunes of the Western Netherlands","Jelgersma, S.; Stive, M.J.F.; Van der Valk, L.","","1995","","netherlands","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:445489c0-e497-46ae-a65f-1cc48290d260","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:445489c0-e497-46ae-a65f-1cc48290d260","Behaviour-oriented models of shoreface evolution","Stive, M.J.F.; De Vriend, H.J.; Cowell Peter, J.; Niedoroda, A.W.","","1995","","Coastal zones Geomorphology Mathematical models Mapping Climate change Coastal engineering Sediments Hydrodynamics Shoreface Behaviour oriented models Morphological response Large scale coastal behaviour Topography 471.1 (Oceanography General) 481.1.1 (Ge","en","conference paper","ASCE","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:0d091907-22d3-41d2-b08d-56073ac6ae17","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:0d091907-22d3-41d2-b08d-56073ac6ae17","Modeling Shoreface Profile Evolution","Stive, M.J.F.; De Vriend, H.J.","","1995","","evolution; sea-level rise; sediment transport; beach equilibrium","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:f9710efe-fb83-46a0-a9a2-9c6e972e7b92","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:f9710efe-fb83-46a0-a9a2-9c6e972e7b92","Coastal processes along the Ebro, Po and Rhone deltas","Jimenez, J.A.; Capobianco, M.; Suanez, S.; Ruol, P.; Fraunie, P.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1995","","23 Coastal and Offshore Structures (CE); CIVIL; Coastal Environment; Coastal Environments; Coastal Processes; Complexity; Deltas; Hierarchies; Plains","en","conference paper","MEDCOAST, ANKARA","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:49133860-e12c-4199-a2ab-511c16f999df","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:49133860-e12c-4199-a2ab-511c16f999df","Geomorphological analysis of a beach and sandbar system","Kung Chen, S.; Stive, M.J.F.; Toms, G.","","1995","","Beaches Computer simulation Computer software Water waves Sediment transport Coastal zones Rivers Ocean currents Wind Sandbar system Geomorphological analysis 407.3 (Coastal Engineering) 723.5 (Computer Applications) 723.1 (Computer Programming) 471.4 (Se","en","conference paper","ASCE; Japan Society of Civil Engineers","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:33afa192-1fdf-4a69-91bd-74f3875da668","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:33afa192-1fdf-4a69-91bd-74f3875da668","Verification of the shearstress boundary conditions in the undertow problem","Stive, M.J.F.; De Vriend, H.J.","","1994","As part of a revision of the quasi-3D approach for coastal currents, the two-dimensional undertow problem is being restudied. Since the first proposal for approaches in the 1980's progress has been made by several researchers (e.g. Deigaard and Fredsoe, 1989) on the potential importance of contributions neglected initially, such as the time-mean correlation between horizontal and vertical wave-induced velocities. The effects of wave-decay, sloping bottom and oscillatory bottom boundary layer on this term, initially neglected, have now been derived formally and included in the undertow description. Before checking the effects in comparisons with measurements of undertow profiles, it is considered essential to first concentrate on an improved,or at least verified, formulation of the shearstress boundary condition at wave trough level. Since it is momentarily not feasible to make direct measurements of the shear stress condition at wave trough level, only indirect verification is possible e.g. by expressing the shearstress condition in terms of the set-up gradient. Existing small scale laboratory and recently acquired large scale laboratory results provide the set-up gradient data for this approach. The verification leads to theoretical improvements, and provides insight into possible differences between large and small scale situations.","undertow; cross shore current; shear stress","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:c13a7bff-6ca4-47d7-b590-93fdfe5eee5b","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c13a7bff-6ca4-47d7-b590-93fdfe5eee5b","Shear stresses and mean flow in shoaling and breaking waves","Stive, M.J.F.; De Vriend, H.J.","","1994","We investigate the vertical, wave averaged distributions of shear stresses and Eulerian flow in normally incident, shoaling and breaking waves. It is found that shear stresses are solely due to wave amplitude variations, which can be caused by shoaling, boundary layer dissipation and/or breaking wave dissipation. The resulting shear stress and mean flow distributions for these cases are derived, and compared with earlier work. The attractive, now frequently used modelling choice of specifying a shear stress at the mean surface level is discussed in the context of the constituent equations and related boundary conditions and constraints. A derivation of the shear stress at the mean surface level is given both by using the momentum balance and energy balance equations, which is shown to lead to the same result, if the effects of a changing roller are incorporated correctly). Finally, matching solutions for the shoaling and breaking wave cases between the boundary layer and the middle layer for the shear stresses and the wave averaged flow are derived.","shear stress; cross shore current; breaking waves","en","conference paper","ASCE","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:7c5255d7-f98a-4d02-9e15-5c71040f1055","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:7c5255d7-f98a-4d02-9e15-5c71040f1055","Application of a parametric long term model concept to the Delray beach nourishment program","Capobianco, M.; De Vriend, H.J.; Nicholls Robert, J.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1994","","Shore protection Mathematical models Beaches Erosion Forecasting Diffusion Coastal zones Sand Beach nourishment program Parametric long term model Diffusion based model Erosive losses Erosion control 471.3 (Oceanographic Techniques) 921.6 (Numerical Metho","en","conference paper","Ministerio de Educacion y Ciencia (Spain); Office of Naval Research; Generalitat de Catalunya; Japan Society of Civil Engineers; E.T.S. d'Enginyers de Camins; et al","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:d292269c-4621-4e50-a9ce-f12cb2f11e9c","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:d292269c-4621-4e50-a9ce-f12cb2f11e9c","Image analysis of surf zone hydrodynamics","Redondo, J.M.; Rodriguez, A.; Bahia, E.; Falques, A.; Gracia, V.; Sanchez-Arcilla, A.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1994","","Hydrodynamics Image analysis Water waves Coastal zones Image recording Oceanography Surfaces Ocean currents Measurements Tracking position Surf zone hydrodynamics Digital image processing Video image recording Sea surfaces Longshore current Dispersion mea","en","conference paper","Ministerio de Educacion y Ciencia (Spain); Office of Naval Research; Generalitat de Catalunya; Japan Society of Civil Engineers; E.T.S. d'Enginyers de Camins; et al","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:e20c85f6-f1f1-4107-9397-e9227f88388b","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e20c85f6-f1f1-4107-9397-e9227f88388b","Long term evolution of coastal morphology and global change","Capobianco, M.; De Vriend, H.J.; Nicholls, R.J.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1993","Long-term prediction of sediment transport and of morphological behaviour in the coastal zone, in response to human interference or to change in environmental conditions (collectively global change) is an increasingly important issue in coastal zone management, especially in relation to the needs for environmentally compatible development. Having in mind those aspects of the response of the coastal system related to long term dynamics of coastal morphology, the paper briefly describes possible approaches to environmental modelling, particularly the modelling of coasts in a typical context of poor experimental information and process knowledge. These approaches will be of help in the impact and vulnerability assessment required for coastal zone management. Reference will mainly be made to long term modelling activities currently performed in the context of the MAST (Marine Science and Technology Program) morphodynamic project on coastal morphology and to possible approaches to ""qualitative"" modelling which may be used to define tendencies of evolution. lt is argued that significant progress in long-term modelling can be made by adopting an appropriate conceptual framework, particularly a top-down approach. This involves formalizing knowledge and experience and integrating data and available models.","climate change; coastal morphology","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:5d81acfe-c735-4a47-b52b-fc18c18a0f96","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:5d81acfe-c735-4a47-b52b-fc18c18a0f96","Behaviour-Oriented Models Applied to Shoreface Profile Evolution","Capobianco, M.; De Vriend, H.J.; Nicholls, R.J.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1993","A possible approach for the development of simple predictive methods of shoreface profile evolution is described. By application of a detailed process-based, cross-shore morphodynamic model and of some inductive assumptions we build simple descriptions which reproduce possible behaviours of the upper zones of shoreface profile as a function of time. The paper introduces the model concept and describes its application on the base of diffusion-type formulations while distinguishing time scales from seasons, to years and decades. These scales correspond lo bar and berm formation, to the lifetime of profile nourishments, as far as major human induced modifications are concerned, and to the time scales of weather pattern modifications and sea-level rise as far as natural effects are concerned.","shoreline; coastline","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:265d4076-e06b-4e56-a7d8-01d79e91647a","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:265d4076-e06b-4e56-a7d8-01d79e91647a","Impact of sea-level rise in a Mediteranean delta: The Ebro delta cast","Sánchez-Arcilla, A.; Stive, M.D.F.; Jiménez, J.A.; García, M.A.","","1993","In anticipation of a comprehensive, multidisciplinary study on the impact of climatic change on the Ebro Delta preliminary results are here presented of the response of the outer delta coast to present and future relative sea-level rise. Due to the absence of observations and predictions of regional effects such as subsidence, it is only possible to indicate the probable range of the impact. With the aid of a simple shoreface response model, it is found that the balance between volume loss due to relative sea-level rise and aeolian transport (partly used for dune formation) and volume gain due to cross-shore feeding is presently such, that these effects cancel locally. This implies, however, that an acceleration of sealevel rise would lead to an acceleration of coastline retreat and surface loss, which would be significant.","delta; sea level rise","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:3cf1453e-4e19-468e-b94e-1d9422e1e70b","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:3cf1453e-4e19-468e-b94e-1d9422e1e70b","Shore nourishment and the active zone: A time scale dependent view","Stive, M.J.F.; De Vriend, H.J.; Nicholls Robert, J.; Capobianco, M.","","1993","","evolution; Shore protection Coastal zones Coastal engineering Sediment transport Water wave effects Beaches shore nourishment Sand shifting Shoal zone Cross shore spreading Closure depth 407.3 (Coastal Engineering) 631.1 (Fluid Flow General) 471.4 (Seawater, Tides a","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:56c89a74-dd07-4ac3-9d7e-ce452758efeb","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:56c89a74-dd07-4ac3-9d7e-ce452758efeb","Prediction of Storm Normal Beach Profiles - Discussion","Jimenez, J.A.; Sanchez-Arcilla, A.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1993","","","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:a45c14e5-05c0-48b3-8fed-2bea3740e69c","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:a45c14e5-05c0-48b3-8fed-2bea3740e69c","Approaches to long-term modelling of coastal morphology: A review","De Vriend, H.J.; Capobianco, M.; Chesher, T.; De Swart, H.E.; Latteux, B.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1993","","Coastal zones Coastal engineering Beaches Shore protection Hydrodynamics Water waves Morphology Hydraulic models Simulation Coastal area modeling Coastal evolution 407.3 (Coastal Engineering) 471.4 (Seawater, Tides and Waves) 631.2 (Hydrodynamics)","en","journal article","Elsevier","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:efbf1131-826c-4f9e-a582-eca6872a7523","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:efbf1131-826c-4f9e-a582-eca6872a7523","Global vulnerability assessment: Vulnerability of coastal areas to sea-level rise","Hoozemans, F.M.J.; Stive, M.J.F.; Bijlsma, L.","","1993","","Coastal engineering Sea level Coastal zones Global vulnerability assessment Sea level rise 407.3 (Coastal Engineering) 471.4 (Seawater, Tides and Waves)","en","conference paper","American Shore and Beach Preservation Association; ASCE; Coastal Zone Foundation; Guenoc Winery; Louisiana Department of Natural Resources; et al","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:131b9035-455a-4b1a-ad7f-917a4b800811","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:131b9035-455a-4b1a-ad7f-917a4b800811","Vulnerability of coastal areas to sea-level rise: Some global results","Hoozemans, F.M.J.; Marchand, M.; Pennekamp, H.; Misdorp, R.; Bijlsma, L.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1992","Assessment of the vulnerability of the various resources of the world's coastal zones to an acceleration of sea-level rise (ASLR) and related climate change effects requires detailed global information on the distribution, density and state of the resources and on the impacting hazardous events. For many resources, such as ecosystems for instance, data on a global scale are not readily available. Another complication is that in order to assess the consequences of hazardous events the response of coastal systems and their response time scales need to be known at a sufficient level of accuracy, which is not generally the case. Within the limits of these constraints this study considers the following three resources of the coastal zone and accompanying impacts: population at risk (i.e. the number of people subject to regular flooding) on a global scale; wetlands at loss (i.e. the ecologically valuable coastal wetland area under a serious threat of loss) on a global scale; rice production at change (i.e. the potential changes in coastal rice yields due to less favourable conditions) in South, Southeast and East Asia.","sea level rise; vulnerability","en","conference paper","Delft Hydraulics","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:616995db-d5c4-4c43-8d85-0e7f32c6a0cc","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:616995db-d5c4-4c43-8d85-0e7f32c6a0cc","Holocene Evolution of the Coast of Holland","Beets, D.J.; Van der Valk, L.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1992","","Holocene Evolution of the Coast of Holland","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:6f7b87ef-68a7-4322-bc4d-671d21bea321","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:6f7b87ef-68a7-4322-bc4d-671d21bea321","Sea-level rise and shore nourishment. A discussion","Stive, M.J.F.; Nicholls Robert, J.; De Vriend, H.J.","","1991","","evolution; Shore protection OCEANOGRAPHY Sea Level Changes COASTAL ENGINEERING Mathematical Models COASTAL ZONES Morphology Shore nourishment conceptual models 407 (Maritime and Port Structures, Rivers and other Waterways) 471 (Marine Science and Oceanography)","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:9caa1d14-108b-4831-8b48-0f57b93c3a4f","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:9caa1d14-108b-4831-8b48-0f57b93c3a4f","Large-scale coastal behaviour in relation to coastal zone management","Stive, M.J.F.","","1990","The development of coastal erosion management - addressing typical traditional erosion problems - towards coastal zone management addressing the evaluation of alternative solutions to guarantee a variety of coastal zone functions on their economic time scale - has necessitated the formulation of large-scale coastal evolution (LSCE) models. Using the coastal evolution of the Netherlands in the Holocene up to the present as an example and a test case, Stive et al (1990) formulated such a LSCE concept. The (more generally applicable) model applies to quasi-uniform coastal stretches. It accounts for morphodynamic processes from the shelf to the first dune-row, and integrates over coastal units of approximately 10 km alongshore length. The added value, compared to earlier published concepts or models, lies in the full inclusion of cross-shore and alongshore processes, and in the distinction between a - with respect to sealevel rise - instantaneously responding active zone and a noninstantaneously responding central shoreface zone. Relevant differences have been found to exist between coastal cells on the ""closed"" and the ""interrupted"" coast. An important conclusion is that the crossshore effective Bruun-effect is only of limited importance. This is especially true in the case of the interrupted coast. Longshore sand transport gradients are very large there. This is mainly related to the sand demand which is placed on coastal stretches adjacent to estuary mouths of those estuaries which tend to follow the sea-level rise.","coastal zone management; Netherlands; coastal development","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:8527d4f3-8b9e-4050-92ac-b1b126a18d2d","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8527d4f3-8b9e-4050-92ac-b1b126a18d2d","Sand transport on the shoreface of the Holland coast. The Dutch coast. Paper No. 5","Roelvink, J.A.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1990","","Coastal zones FLOW OF WATER Sediment Transport SAND AND GRAVEL Erosion COASTAL ENGINEERING WATER WAVES TIDES Sand transport tidal flow velocity 471 (Marine Science and Oceanography) 631 (Fluid Flow) 483 (Soil Mechanics and Foundations)","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:fa6501e3-7d05-4c82-acd6-a160a229761d","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:fa6501e3-7d05-4c82-acd6-a160a229761d","Reconstruction of the holocene evolution of the Dutch coast. The Dutch coast. Paper no 2","Zitman, T.J.; Stive, M.J.F.; Wiersma, H.","","1990","","Coastal zones GEOLOGY Geomorphology Holocene period coastal evolution geography coastal genesis programme coastal processes 471 (Marine Science and Oceanography) 481 (Geology and Geophysics); evolution","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:ac1adaff-fa2c-49a7-ae39-109cbcd11868","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:ac1adaff-fa2c-49a7-ae39-109cbcd11868","Large-Scale Coastal Evolution Concept","Stive, M.J.F.; Roelvink, D.A.; De Vriend, H.J.","","1990","","53 Waterways (CE); CIVIL; Coastal Engineering; Coastal Morphology; Coastal Processes; Estuaries; evolution; netherlands; Sand Transport; Sea Level","en","conference paper","American Society of Civil Engineers","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:c80fc653-291e-4501-870c-283607d9d55c","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c80fc653-291e-4501-870c-283607d9d55c","Nearshore circulation","Battjes, J.A.; Sobey, R.J.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1990","Shelf circulation is driven primarily by wind- and tide-induced forces. It is laterally only weakly constrained so that the geostrophic (Coriolis) acceleration is manifest in the response. Nearshore circulation on the other hand is dominated by wave-induced forces associated with shallow-water. wave breaking and is confined to a relatively narrow shore-bounded area. For brevity and for clarity of presentation, only wave-induced nearshore circulation is considered in this chapter, with zero mean flow far offshore. The purpose of this chapter is to give a state-of-the-art review of the subject, rather than a presentation of recent research results. Emphasis is placed on the physics. Mathematical formulations of the most important relations are given, but solution techniques are only briefly referred to without analytical derivations or numerical algorithms.","wave action; longshore current; nearshore processes; wave driven currents","en","conference paper","Harvard University Press","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:3c0275e7-cde8-46ff-a06c-02e47014e5f4","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:3c0275e7-cde8-46ff-a06c-02e47014e5f4","Large-scale coastal evolution concept. The Dutch coast. Paper No. 9","Stive, M.J.F.; Roelvink, D.A.; De Vriend, H.J.","","1990","","Coastal zones GEOLOGY Netherlands OCEANOGRAPHY Sea Level Changes FLOW OF WATER Sediment Transport Coastal evolution coastal processes holocene period cross shore flow longshore transport 471 (Marine Science and Oceanography) 481 (Geology and Geophysics) 6; evolution; netherlands","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:9334552b-d70e-445b-b644-9d9a9e61b8cf","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:9334552b-d70e-445b-b644-9d9a9e61b8cf","Effects of sea level rise on coastal evolution","Stive, M.J.F.","","1990","Using the Dutch coastal evolution in the Holocene upto the present as an example and a test case, a coastal evolution concept is proposed and materialized with which shoreline position changes for different sea level rise scenarios are predicted. The (more generally applicable) model applies to (quasi-)uniform coastal stretches. It accounts for morphodynamic processes from the shelf to the first dune-row, and integrates over coastal units of approximately 10 km alongshore length. The added value compared to earlier published concepts or models lies in the full inclusion of cross-shore and alongshore processes, and in the distinction between a - with respect to sea level rise - instantaneously responding active zone and a noninstantaneously responding central shoreface zone. Relevant differences have been found to exist between closed and interrupted coastal stretches. An important conclusion is that the cross-shore effective Bruun-effect is only of limited importance. This is especially true in the case of the interrupted coast. Longshore sand transport gradients are very important there. This is mainly connected with the sand demand which is placed on coastal stretches adjacent.","changes of level; sea water; coastal environment; holocene Landform evolution; transport; sand; Netherlands; North Sea; sea level rise","en","conference paper","Balkema","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:84ef8201-1130-418f-954a-79a80c626173","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:84ef8201-1130-418f-954a-79a80c626173","Extreme waves and wave loading in shallow water","Klopman, G.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1989","As an alternative to a more or less standard derivation procedure for design wave heights in relatively shallow water, two improvements of the procedure are suggested which lead to less conservative results. These improvements are based on observations of shallow water effects on both the decay of total wave energy density and on the extreme waves in the wave height distribution. Existing semi-empirical formulations to account for these effects are adopted and somewhat further evaluated here. The implications of introducing the improved procedures for the resulting design wave loading on a slender cylinder are indicated.","waves; extreme waves; shallow water","en","conference paper","Delft Hydraulics","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:35c1f976-ed87-4da2-80f4-5fbd8b4b7eb7","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:35c1f976-ed87-4da2-80f4-5fbd8b4b7eb7","Voorspelling ontwikkeling kustlijn 1990-2090, fase 3 (deelrapport 3.1): Dynamisch model van het Nederlandse kustsysteem","Stive, M.J.F.; Eysink, W.D.","","1989","","kustlijnontwikkeling; coastline development; kustmorfologie; coastal morphology; Nederland","nl","report","Deltares (WL)","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:a7dd2508-bfce-423d-a0e7-87d3625fd8df","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:a7dd2508-bfce-423d-a0e7-87d3625fd8df","Voorspelling ontwikkeling kustlijn 1990-2090, fase 3 (deelrapport 3.4): Initieel sedimenttransportmodel Hollandse kust","Roelvink, J.A.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1989","","kustlijnontwikkeling; coastline development; kustmorfologie; coastal morphology; Nederland","nl","report","Deltares (WL)","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:b5217fc0-3976-4a54-ad4e-c2cc1b70107d","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b5217fc0-3976-4a54-ad4e-c2cc1b70107d","Kustverdediging na 1990 (Kustnota 1990): Technisch rapport 5: kustvoorspelling","Stive, M.J.F.","Rijkswaterstaat","1989","Het beoogde resultaat van deze studie is een voorspel ling te geven van de ligging van de kustlij n in 1990, 1995 , 2000 , 20 10, 2020 , 2050 en 2090 . Niet aIleen het verlangde onderscheidend vermogen in de tijd is groot , ook het verlangde ru imtelijk oplossend vermogen is hoog: van de or de een kilometer. Deze vraagstelling is vooral bepaald door de eisen die de beleidsanalyse stelt; zij is niet ingegeven door de mogelijkheden die de technische kennis van het kustgedrag biedt . De technische haalbaarheid van de voorspelling wordt enigszi ns vergroot omdat bij de voorspelling van de kustligging er in eerste aanleg van kan worden uitgegaan dat het huidige kustbeheer wordt voortgezet , dat er geen grote civieltechnische ingrepen worden uitgevoerd, en dat de huidige stijgingssnelheid van de zeespiegel gehandhaafd blijft. Naast deze ""basisvoor spelling"" dienen ook voorspellingen te worden gedaan voor scenario 's met hogere stijgingssnel heden van de zeespiege l en ongunstiger meteorologische omstandigheden . De voorspellingen dienen te worden gebaseerd op een optimale kombinatie van de fenomenologische kenn is en de huidige fysische proceskennis.","kustlijn; kustnota; kustligging","nl","report","Rijkswaterstaat, RIKZ (Dienst Getijdewateren)","","","","","","","","","","","","Kustnota",""
"uuid:4ac5dd1c-ec43-44d9-ae08-dac52088dee8","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:4ac5dd1c-ec43-44d9-ae08-dac52088dee8","Bar-generating cross-shore flow mechanisms on a beach Barre provoquant des mecanismes d' ecoulement perpendiculaires a la plage","Roelvink, J.A.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1989","","Shore features Longshore bars Bars Ocean waves Experimental studies Two dimensional models Landform evolution Sedimentation Marine transport Beaches Shorelines Hydraulics Laboratory studies Turbulence Longshore bar Bar Swell Experience Two dimensional mod","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:168fa679-1a60-4734-9bdb-4411029b5317","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:168fa679-1a60-4734-9bdb-4411029b5317","Sediment transport on nearly-prismatic beaches","Stive, M.J.F.; Roelvink, J.A.","","1989","","Flow of water Beaches hydrodynamics mathematical models Nearly prismatic beaches cross shore sediment transport beach profiles water currents beach morphology 631 (Fluid Flow) 471 (Marine Science and Oceanography) 407 (Maritime and Port Structures, Rivers","en","conference paper","ASCE","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:4c659660-82bd-4280-9b31-b1b385153e41","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:4c659660-82bd-4280-9b31-b1b385153e41","Cross-shore flow in waves breaking on a beach","Stive, M.J.F.","Battjes, J.A. (promotor)","1988","","","en","doctoral thesis","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","","","","",""
"uuid:9f22cd72-4b1b-48b3-9b9b-1f68988545e3","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:9f22cd72-4b1b-48b3-9b9b-1f68988545e3","A model for cross-shore sediment transport","Stive, M.J.F.","","1988","","rapport SDL / Klastische sedimenten: afzettingen / Clastic sediments: deposits TLN / Kustprocessen / Coastal processes; Sediment Transport","en","conference paper","Delft Hydraulics","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:d1ef7cdc-4cb6-45b4-9d95-9428cd171d73","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:d1ef7cdc-4cb6-45b4-9d95-9428cd171d73","Quasi-3D Nearshore Current Modelling: Wave-Induced Secondary Current","Stive, M.J.F.; De Vriend, H.J.","","1987","","63 Mathematics and Computation (CE); Breaking Waves; CIVIL; Hydrodynamics; Littoral Currents; Nearshore Circulation; Surf Zone; Three-dimensional Models","en","conference paper","American Society of Civil Engineers","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:2d1e13ec-806a-42d8-b69a-098880181e80","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2d1e13ec-806a-42d8-b69a-098880181e80","Quasi-3D Modelling of Nearshore Currents","De Vriend, H.J.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1987","","Oceanography COASTAL ZONES FLOW OF WATER Mathematical Models Nearshore currents 471 (Marine Science and Oceanography) 631 (Fluid Flow)","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:8910bdec-8051-4181-b400-bfd132fdbe56","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8910bdec-8051-4181-b400-bfd132fdbe56","Kustgenese, grootschalige vorming en ontwikkeling van de Nederlandse kust, vorming en toetsing van hypotheses (hoofdrapport en 4 deelrapporten)","Stive, M.J.F.; Kollen, J.; Wind, H.G.; Stolk, A.; Wiersma, J.; Zitman, T.J.; Reinalda, R.","","1987","Hoofdstuk 1. Inleiding Naast een algemene inleiding op het projekt Kustgenese en de werkwijze binnen het projekt zijn hierin een samenvatting en de konklusies opgenomen. Hoofdstuk 2. Waargenomen kustontwikkelingen De waargenomen ontwikkeling en vorming van de kust worden hier beschreven onderscheiden naar de tijdsperioden beschouwd door de drie Taakgroepen. Naast het geven van een beknopt overzicht is het voornaamste doel te wijzen op die ontwikkelingen waarvoor de hypothesen een verklaring moeten vinden. Hoofdstuk 3. Hypothesen kustvorming en kustontwikkeling In de loop van het projekt zijn verschillende hypothesen naar voren gekomen zowel vanuit de bestaande literatuur als vanuit de ideeen en diskussies ontstaan in het projekt zelf. In een van de deelrapporten (Deelrapport 3) worden alle gegenereerde hypothesen toegelicht. Voor het Hoofdrapport zijn deze hypothesen tot een achttal gekondenseerd; in dit hoofdstuk worden deze acht hypothesen geformuleerd en toegelicht. Hoofdstuk 4. Vergelijkende analyse hypothesen In dit hoofdstuk worden de hypothesen onderling vergeleken, zodat konklusies kunnen worden getrokken over welke hypothesen op dit moment van belang worden geacht voor de grootschalige kustontwikkeling in de toekomst. De aspekten die hierbij een rol spelen zijn de zekerheden en onzekerheden met betrekking tot de processen van kustvorming en -ontwikkeling (systeem), de benodigde randvoorwaarden en externe invloeden (input) om het proces te kunnen laten plaatsvinden, de mate waarin een hypothese verklarend is voor de waargenomen kustontwikkeling (output) en de relevantie die een bepaalde hypothese heeft voor de huidige en toekomstige kustontwikkeling (relevantie).","Coastal development; Coastal morphology; Netherlands; beach formation; dune formation","nl","report","Rijkswaterstaat","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:50838c66-b10b-40f0-a837-d1babc206937","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:50838c66-b10b-40f0-a837-d1babc206937","Duinafslag tijdens superstormvloed op Walcheren: Analyse golf(klap)belasting op asfalt-zandlichaam aan duinvoet, t.p.v. de Golflinks","Houweling, G.A.J.A.; Stive, R.J.H.","","1986","","Zeeland; duinafslag; dune erosion; asfalt; asphalt; golfklappen; wave slamming","nl","report","Deltares (WL)","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:e81e67a5-de71-43ba-a14a-b01e94172aae","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e81e67a5-de71-43ba-a14a-b01e94172aae","Random wave breaking and induced currents","Stive, M.J.F.; Battjes, J.A.","","1986","The radiation stress concept is basic to the description of currents induced by waves. Gradients of the excess momentum flux due to the presence of waves (or radiation stress) appear as volume forces in the time- and depth-integrated horizontal momentum balance equations. Combined with the continuity equation these three equations yield the mean water surface elevation and both depth-averaged, horizontal velocity components. Since the introduction in 1969/1970 considerable progress has been made with the modelling of depthaveraged currents in the nearshore zone. In recent years, the modelling of wave-induced currents in the vertical crossshore plane has also made substantial progress. Here, the local time-averaged horizontal momentum equation describes the imbalance between the vertically nonuniform radiation stress and the vertically uniform pressure gradient. This imbalance induces a seaward directed undertow in the cross-shore direction, compensating for a shoreward mass flux above wave trough level. Latest developments are to combine the latter cross-shore flow field with the aforementioned horizontally two-dimensional flow field to a three-dimensional flow formulation.","wave breaking; loongshore currents","en","conference paper","Sogreah","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:b54f8ef4-47c4-476e-8ffe-3a31cc47813a","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b54f8ef4-47c4-476e-8ffe-3a31cc47813a","Cross-Shore Mean Flow in the Surf Zone","Stive, M.J.F.; Wind, H.G.","","1986","","","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:1f4abe1d-08a2-4327-bd7d-b253fd1f7edf","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:1f4abe1d-08a2-4327-bd7d-b253fd1f7edf","Directional Nearshore Wave Propagation and Induced Currents","Dingemans, M.W.; Stive, M.J.F.; Bosma, J.; De Vriend, H.J.; Vogel, J.A.","","1986","","Water waves OCEANOGRAPHY Currents MATHEMATICAL MODELS Directional nearshore wave propagation induced currents numerical model 471 (Marine Science and Oceanography) 631 (Fluid Flow) 921 (Applied Mathematics)","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:9acbeccd-0177-4122-bc26-43b1312b23b7","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:9acbeccd-0177-4122-bc26-43b1312b23b7","Cross-shore Sediment Transport","Stive, M.J.F.","","1985","In the first phase of the detailed nodelling of cross-shore sediment transport under random waves a model is constructed which adopts a vertically integrated transport description for sheetflow situations. The formulation of the transport as a function of the instantaneous velocity field is based on the approach of Bailard (1981). This approach assumes in essence simply that the instantaneous transport is proportional with some power of the instantaneous near-bottom velocity. Implementation of this transport description in a time-dependent model requires a formulation of the time-mean and some low order moments of the near-bottom velocity field. An ad-hoc formulation based on a monochromatic, second order Stokes wave representation is presented. A numerical research model, based on the above formulations, is described and limitedly checked on its performance on the basis of an available field data set. Some consequences for further study are indicated","cross shore transport; sedimenttransport","en","conference paper","","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:8d29dea7-a104-4c58-82f4-bf2daa12260c","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8d29dea7-a104-4c58-82f4-bf2daa12260c","CROSTRAN - a model for beach profile changes due to cross-shore sediment transport under random breaking waves: Progress report 1","Stive, M.J.F.","","1985","","sedimenttransportmodellen; sediment transport models; strandprofiel; beach profile; stranderosie; beach erosion; kustmorfologie; coastal morphology","en","report","Deltares (WL)","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:7840e62c-948c-4c50-b2bb-7de46ad9f020","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:7840e62c-948c-4c50-b2bb-7de46ad9f020","Kinematics and Directionality of Waves in the Surf Zone","Van Heteren, J.; Stive, M.J.F.","Rijkswaterstaat","1985","Realistic modelling of the internal kinematics of wind waves breaking on a beach is of great practical importance, e.g. for the modelling of coastal processes and for the design of coastal structures. A fundarnental aspect in this modelling concerns. the relation between the surface elevation and the internal kinematics. In this respect it appears that in water of interrnediate relative depth the linear Gaussian model of the wave motion performs satisfactorily (see Battjes and Van Heteren, 1983, 1984). Although the linearity assumption is expected to be violated near and in the surf zone, it is practically useful to check the quantitative performance of the linear Gaussian model in this case. An important part of the present study is devoted to the applicability of this theory, making use of field measurements which were collected in the spring of 1981 on the beach near Egmond. The quantitative performance of linear theory in predicting the wave kinematics from the surface elevation is investigated on the basis of spectral transfer functions between surface elevation and velocity and of measured and theoretical r.m.s. fluctuation of the velocity. As far as the spectral transfer functions are concerned the squared coherence, the gain and the phase were investigated between surf ace elevation and both horizontal and vertical velocity. Relevant earlier studies on the performance of linear theory in the surf zone are those of Thorn ton et al. (1976), of Mitsuguchi et al. (1980) and of Guza and Thornton (1980). The general findings are that linear theory generally overestimates wave induced horizontal veloci ties by 10% to 30%. Mitsuguchi et al. merely state their conclusion without analyzing apparent trends in their data with e.g. increasing frequency. They only consider alirnited set of horizontal velocity data. Guza and Thornton obtain their overall conclusion merely on the basis of the r.m.s. fluctuation of the horizontal velocity as measured and as predicted with the linear theory from the surface elevation. The present study confirrns the conclusions of the above investigations by and large, but extends the analysis both in width by including the vertical velocities and in depth by investigating the role of turbulent kinetic energy generated by breaking. Also special attention is given to the phase relationship between the vertical velocity and the horizontal velocity, and between the vertical velocity and the surface elevation.","interal kinemates; wind waves; wave breaking; surf zone; wave modelling; turbulent kinetic energy","en","report","Rijkswaterstaat, RIKZ","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:13f03431-8925-419c-9cef-58f84af6471f","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:13f03431-8925-419c-9cef-58f84af6471f","Beleidsanalyse kustverdediging Texel","Baarse, C.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1985","Gedurende de laatste decennia gaat de Noordzeekust van het eiland Texel over de gehele linie achteruit, zij het niet overal in hetzelfde tempo. Naast het waarborgen van de veiligheid tegen overstroming, is er een aantal andere belangen gemoeid met het kust- en duingebied van Texel, zoals het natuurlijk milieu, de rekreatie (het toerisme) en de drinkwatervoorziening. De veiligheid van het grootste deel van het eiland wordt gewaarborgd door de Deltakering, een ononderbroken lijn van duinregels langs de Noordzeekust die wat betreft afmetingen voldoen aan de zogenaamde Deltanorm. De hier bedoelde Deltakering is voor een groot deel aan de landzijde van het duingebied van Texel gelegen (zie figuur 1). Dit houdt in dat nagenoeg overal een ruime marge bestaat tussen de minimum veiligheid ingevolge de Deltanorm (de veiligheid die door de deltakering wordt geboden) en de feitelijke veiligheid (door de aanwezigheid van een duin ""buffer"" tussen de Deltakering en de Noordzee) waar het gaat om het gebied dat door de Deltakering wordt beschermd. De noodzaak om het gebied achter de Deltakering te beschermen staat niet ter diskussie. Wat wel ter diskussie staat is de vraag in hoeverre het gebied aan de zeezijde van de Deltakering door kustverdedigingsmaatregelen in stand moet worden gehouden.","Texel; beleidsanalyse; zandsuppletie","nl","journal article","Land+Water","","","","","","","","Civil Engineering and Geosciences","Hydraulic Engineering","","","",""
"uuid:cb0609f2-18ba-4226-883d-c76919856f81","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:cb0609f2-18ba-4226-883d-c76919856f81","Calibration and verification of a dissipation model for random breaking waves","Battjes, J.A.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1985","","ocean-waves ocean-wave beach- coast- dissipation-model random-breaking-waves average-rate-of-energy-dissipation shallow-water calibration- verification- barred-beaches","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:b1b3908f-1a22-43c1-9f3e-81fc4bbc922e","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b1b3908f-1a22-43c1-9f3e-81fc4bbc922e","A Scale Comparison of Waves Breaking on a Beach","Stive, M.J.F.","","1985","","","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:c31e29b8-8bca-4540-9928-a23126eefaa9","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c31e29b8-8bca-4540-9928-a23126eefaa9","Calibration and verification of a one-dimensional wave energy decay model","Stive, M.J.F.; Dingemans, M.W.","","1984","","golfonderzoek; wave research; brandingsgolven; surf waves","en","report","Deltares (WL)","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:30527b02-5657-4877-a055-c255200bed5e","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:30527b02-5657-4877-a055-c255200bed5e","Wave Kinematics and Directionality in the Surf Zone","Van Heteren, J.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1984","","62 Theoretical Mechanics and Dynamics (CE); CIVIL; Surf; Surf Zone; Turbulence; Wave Energy","en","conference paper","American Society of Civil Engineers","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:5b093e49-3427-433c-8d51-ff3cc16c94c3","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:5b093e49-3427-433c-8d51-ff3cc16c94c3","Energy-Dissipation in Waves Breaking on Gentle Slopes","Stive, M.J.F.","","1984","","","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:6ac5f86a-e957-4088-8390-52f1a05f4d13","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:6ac5f86a-e957-4088-8390-52f1a05f4d13","Calibration and verification of a one-dimensional wave energy decay model report on investigation","Stive, M.J.F.; Dingemans, M.W.","","1984","","rapport TLJ / Golfbewegingen / Wave motion dynamica golfbeweging","en","report","WL","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:5a03bc35-d87b-464d-b9b9-726fd5b2c624","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:5a03bc35-d87b-464d-b9b9-726fd5b2c624","Calibration and Verification of a Dissipation Model for Random Breaking Waves","Battjes, J.A.; Stive, M.J.F.","","1984","","41 Water Utilities (CE); Breaking Waves; CIVIL; Energy Dissipation; Random Waves; Shallow Water","en","conference paper","American Society of Civil Engineers","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:8042de7c-0a63-47ec-9d9e-bdcdc8d70276","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8042de7c-0a63-47ec-9d9e-bdcdc8d70276","TWO-DIMENSIONAL BREAKING OF WAVES ON A BEACH; laboratory report. Pt. 2. Pressure field in waves shoaling and breaking on a plane beach","Stive, M.J.F.","","1983","","TLJ / Golfbewegingen / Wave motion branding","en","report","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:fa940132-7957-498c-95f2-597e63d15f21","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:fa940132-7957-498c-95f2-597e63d15f21","TWO-DIMENSIONAL BREAKING OF WAVES ON A BEACH; laboratory report. Pt. 4. Small and large scale waves breaking on a gently sloped beach","Stive, M.J.F.","","1983","","TLJ / Golfbewegingen / Wave motion branding","en","report","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:245c4442-978a-4217-8a0f-5c6791ceac11","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:245c4442-978a-4217-8a0f-5c6791ceac11","TWO-DIMENSIONAL BREAKING OF WAVES ON A BEACH; laboratory report. Pt. 3. Kinetic energy in waves shoaling and breaking on a plane beach","Stive, M.J.F.","","1983","","TLJ / Golfbewegingen / Wave motion branding","en","report","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:8a36c88a-aaec-4367-91a3-f1f2c5df5830","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8a36c88a-aaec-4367-91a3-f1f2c5df5830","A Study of Radiation Stress and Set-up in the Nearshore Region","Stive, M.J.F.; Wind, H.G.","","1982","","","en","journal article","","","","","","","","","","","","","",""
"uuid:23360056-1520-489e-adb1-5dc3b2649920","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:23360056-1520-489e-adb1-5dc3b2649920","Snelheidsveld in Golven: Inventarisatie van metingen in model en natuur","Van Hijum, E.; Stive, M.J.F.","Deltares","1980","Het doel van het onderzoek is om te komen tot een inventarisatie van literatuur met betrekking tot snelheidvelden in golven. Aan de hand van deze inventarisatie kan in een later stadium inzicht worden verkregen in de toepasbaarheid van bestaande golftheorieen of worden overgegaan tot de opzet van een beschrijvend model van het snelheidsveld onder een golf, wanneer deze de kust nadert.","golven; waves; orbital velocity","nl","report","Deltares (WL)","","","","","","","","","","","","TOW",""
"uuid:1b5f6d23-af03-44ae-90a3-f1bb8c665ef3","http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:1b5f6d23-af03-44ae-90a3-f1bb8c665ef3","Velocity and Pressure Field in Spilling Breakers","Stive, M.J.F.","","1980","","41 Water Utilities (CE); Breaking Waves; CIVIL; Coastal Engineering; Surf Zone; Velocity; Water Waves; Wave Pressure; Wave Velocity","en","conference paper","American Society of Civil Engineers","","","","","","","","","","","","",""