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Buckley, Mark L. (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), Pomeroy, Andrew (author), Storlazzi, Curt D. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), da Silva, Renan F. (author), Contardo, Stephanie (author), Green, Rebecca H. (author)Wave breaking on the steep fore-reef slopes of shallow fringing reefs can be effective at dissipating incident sea-swell waves prior to reaching reef shorelines. However, wave setup and free infragravity waves generated during the sea-swell breaking process are often the largest contributors to wave-driven water levels (wave runup) at the...journal article 2022
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Buckley, Mark L. (author), da Silva, Renan F. (author), Cuttler, Michael V.W. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author), Green, Rebecca H. (author), Storlazzi, Curt D. (author)Two-dimensional mean wave-driven flow and setup dynamics were investigated at a reef-lagoon system at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia, using the numerical wave-flow model, SWASH. Phase-resolved numerical simulations of the wave and flow fields, validated with highly detailed field observations (including >10 sensors through the energetic...journal article 2021