Topography-induced focusing of random waves

Refraction of narrow-band surface waves in coastal areas can result in wave-focal zones where due to interference, wave statistics vary rapidly and on similar length scales as those of individual waves. However such interference patterns, or wave coherence, are not accounted for in conventional stochastic wave models that are based on the energy...

Topography-induced focusing of random waves

Refraction of narrow-band surface waves in coastal areas can result in wave-focal zones where due to interference, wave statistics vary rapidly and on similar length scales as those of individual waves. However such interference patterns, or wave coherence, are not accounted for in conventional stochastic wave models that are based on the energy...

Generalized evolution equations for nonlinear surface gravity waves over two-dimensional topography

Evolution of ocean wave statistics in shallow water: Refraction and diffraction over seafloor topography

We present a stochastic model for the evolution of random ocean surface waves in coastal waters with complex seafloor topography. First, we derive a deterministic coupled-mode model based on a forward scattering approximation of the nonlinear mild slope equation; this model describes the evolution of random, directionally spread waves over fully...

Nonlinear infragravity–wave interactions on a gently sloping laboratory beach

A high-resolution dataset of three irregular wave conditions collected on a gently sloping laboratory beach is analyzed to study nonlinear energy transfers involving infragravity frequencies. This study uses bispectral analysis to identify the dominant, nonlinear interactions and estimate energy transfers to investigate energy flows within the...

Stochastic modeling of coherent wave fields over variable depth

Refractive focusing of swell waves can result in fast-scale variations in the wave statistics because of wave interference, which cannot be resolved by stochastic wave models based on the radiative transport equation. Quasi-coherent statistical theory does account for such statistical interferences and the associated wave inhomogeneities, but...

The design of a numerical shallow water wave hindcast model

Development of a two-dimensional model to hindcast spectral wave parameters in an estuary with tidal flats on the basis of bottom topography, current- and wind data. HISWA is a directionally decoupled parametric wave hindcast model containing bottom- and current refraction, diffraction, wave growth and dissipation. The design for this hindcast...

Implementation (II) of the numerical shallow water wave hindcast model HISWA

Development of a two-dimensional model to hindcast spectral wave parameters in an estuary with tidal flats on the basis of bottomtopography, current and wind data. Diffraction-like propagation has been implemented and tested. Tests indicate that this type of propagation cannot.be used for most applications. Wave growth and decay has been...

The shallow water wave hindcast model: HISWA Part IV: system documentation

Development of a two-dimensional model to hindcast spectral wave parameters in an estuary with tidal flats on the basis of bottomtopography, current and wind data. This part IV contains the system documentation of the HISWA model.

Implementation (I) of the numerical shallow water wave hindcast model HISWA

Development of a two-dimensional model to hindcast spectral wave parameters in an estuary with tidal flats on the basis of bottomtopography, current and wind data. The propagation of waves has been implemented (except diffraction) and tested. The input program is under design. The output program will be developed in two versions.

The shallow water wave hindcast model: HISWA Part II: test cases

Development of a two-dimensional model to hindcast spectral wave parameters in an estuary with tidal flats on the basis of bottomtopography, current and wind data. Computational results of the HISWA model with default parameter values are compared with field observations in the Haringvliet and over the Galgenplaat. The results indicate that some...

The shallow water wave hindcast model: HISWA Part III: user manual

Development of a two-dimensional model to hindcast spectral wave parameters in an estuary with tidal flats on the basis of bottomtopography, current and wind data. This part III contains the user manual of the HISWA model.