Short wave breaking effects on low frequency waves

The effect of short wave breaking on low frequency waves is investigated using two breaker formulations implemented in a time-dependent numerical model (XBeach): (1) an advective-deterministic approach (ADA) and (2) the probabilistic breaker formulation of Roelvink (1993). Previous research has shown that the ADA breaker model gives different...

Modelling dune erosion, overwash and breaching at Fire Island (NY) during hurricane Sandy

In 2012, Hurricane Sandy caused a breach at Fire Island (NY, USA), near Pelican Island. This paper aims at modelling dune erosion, overwash and breaching processes that occured during the hurricane event at this stretch of coast with the numerical model XBeach. By using the default settings, the erosion rates are substantially overestimated,...

Modelling Scour in Front of Dune Revetments in a Surf-beat Model

This paper presents adaptations to the XBeach model aimed at including the relevant processes for the generation of scour holes at the toe of a revetment. Dutch assessment rules for the safety of sea defenses need to be adjusted to cope with a combination of sandy dunes and hard elements. To that end, the XBeach model is prepared to be...

Modeling of wave attenuation by vegetation with XBeach

Over the past decades the effect of vegetation (e.g. kelp, mangroves, sea grass) on nearshore coastal processes has received more and more attention. In recent years several numerical wave models have been extended to include this effect. In the current study, the numerical storm impact model XBeach was extended with formulations found in...

Measuring and modelling overwash hydrodynamics on a barrier island

Overwash hydrodynamics datasets are mixed in quality and scope, being hard to obtain due to fieldwork experimental difficulties. Aiming to overcome such limitations, this work presents accurate fieldwork data on overwash<br/>hydrodynamics, further exploring it to model overwash on a low-lying barrier island. Fieldwork was performed on Barreta...

Incipient motion of sand-oil agglomerates

Long-term morphological modelling: combining storm impact and daily conditions in an integrated modeling framework

Modeling the effect of wave-vegetation interaction on wave setup

Aquatic vegetation in the coastal zone attenuates wave energy and reduces the risk of coastal hazards, e.g., flooding. Besides the attenuation of sea-swell waves, vegetation may also affect infragravity-band (IG) waves and wave setup. To date, knowledge on the effect of vegetation on IG waves and wave setup is lacking, while they are potentially...

Probabilistic Assessment of Overtopping of Sea Dikes with Foreshores including Infragravity Waves and Morphological Changes: Westkapelle Case Study

Shallow foreshores in front of coastal dikes can reduce the probability of dike failure due to wave overtopping. A probabilistic model framework is presented, which is capable of including complex hydrodynamics like infragravity waves, and morphological changes of a sandy foreshore during severe storms in the calculations of the probability of...

The longshore dimension in dune overwash modelling: Development, verification and validation of XBeach

The primary objective of this thesis is to generate a 2DH-numerical model to simulate dune overwash. The first stage in this is achieved by modifying the program code of an existing overwash model in development, XBeach, to enable 2DH calculations. In the second stage the hydrodynamics of the model are verified using theoretical and laboratory...

Coastal defence for Centro Habana: Integral coastal defence for section 4 of the Malecón and hurricane generated hydraulic boundary conditions

Master project report. Havana is protected from the sea’s severity by a seawall which is called the Malecón. The study area of this report is section 4 of the Malecón which more or less matches the coast of the district ‘Centro Habana’. Since the construction of the Malecón the hinterland has frequently been flooded due to storms and hurricanes...