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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)The Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model has been extended with an infragravity module to predict the Wave-Group-Forced (WGF) infragravity response to a frequency-directional sea-swell spectrum at a mildly sloping alongshore uniform beach. To that end the SWAN model has been extended with an WGF-infragravity source term denoted S<sub>sb<...journal article 2022
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Kranenborg, Joost W.M. (author), Campmans, Geert H.P. (author), Jacobsen, Niels G. (author), van der Werf, Jebbe J. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Hulscher, Suzanne J.M.H. (author)We present a fully coupled 2DV morphodynamic model, implemented in OpenFOAM<sup>®</sup> that is capable of simulating swash-zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The hydrodynamics are described by the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations with a (Formula presented.) turbulence model and the Volume of Fluid (VoF) approach for...journal article 2022
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Tas, S.A.J. (author), van Maren, D.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Cheniers are ridges consisting of coarse-grained sediments, resting on top of the fine sediment that forms the otherwise muddy coast. In this paper, we use Delft3D to explore how cheniers are formed through wave winnowing. We identify three phases of chenier development: (a) a winnowing phase, during which mud is washed out of the seabed...journal article 2022
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Matsuba, Yoshinao (author), Roelvink, D. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Shimozono, Takenori (author)Understanding directional spectra of infragravity (IG) waves composed of free and bound components is required due to their impacts on various coastal processes (e.g., coastal inundation and morphological change). However, conventional reconstruction methods of directional spectra relying on linear wave theory are not applicable to IG waves...journal article 2022
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Tas, S.A.J. (author), van Maren, D.S. (author), Helmi, Muhammad (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)A chenier is a beach ridge, consisting of sand and/or shells, overlying a muddy substrate. In this paper, we explore the cross-shore dynamics of cheniers in their ‘active’ phase, i.e. the phase between their formation and their landing on the shore and can no longer be reached by daily wave and tidal influences. While cheniers described in...journal article 2022
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Ascencio, Jaime A. (author), Jacobsen, Niels G. (author), McFall, Brian C. (author), Groeneweg, Jacco (author), Vuik, V. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)To address the important research question of whether implicit (bottom friction) or explicit (stem drag) dissipation models are most appropriate for the prediction of wave attenuation due to aquatic vegetation, the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) spectral wave model has been extended with an explicit frequency-dependent dissipation model...journal article 2022
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van IJzendoorn, Christa (author), Hallin, E.C. (author), Cohn, Nicholas (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), de Vries, S. (author)In sandy beach systems, the aeolian sediment transport can be governed by the vertical structure of the sediment layers at the bed surface. Here, data collected with a newly developed sand scraper is presented to determine high-resolution vertical grain size variability and how it is affected by marine and aeolian processes. Sediment samples...journal article 2022
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)Infragravity waves are low-frequency surface waves that can impact a variety of nearshore and oceanic processes. Recent measurements in the North Sea showed that significant bursts of infragravity energy occurred during storm events. Using a spectral wave model, we show that a substantial part of this energy was radiated from distant...journal article 2021
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Nguyen, T.D. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Roelvink, D. (author)In numerical ocean models, the effect of waves on currents is usually expressed by either vortex-force or radiation stress representations. In this paper, the differences and similarities between those two representations are investigated in detail in conditions of both conservative and nonconservative waves. In addition, comparisons between...journal article 2021
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de Beer, A. F. (author), McCall, R. T. (author), Long, J. W. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)The prediction of wave runup, as well as its components, time-averaged setup and the time-varying swash, is a key element of coastal storm hazard assessments, as wave runup controls the transitions between morphodynamic response types such as dune erosion and overwash, and the potential for flooding by wave overtopping. While theoretically...journal article 2021
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Wiegel, M.F. (author), de Boer, W.P. (author), van Koningsveld, M. (author), van der Hout, A.J. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Seaport operability is key to the economic viability of ports. Metocean conditions (e.g., wind, short waves, and infragravity waves) affect this operability when certain thresholds are exceeded. This paper describes a method for the global mapping of seaport operability risk indicators using open-source metocean data. This global-scale...journal article 2021
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Schepper, Rob (author), Almar, Rafael (author), Bergsma, Erwin (author), de Vries, S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Davidson, Mark (author), Splinter, Kristen (author)In this paper, a new approach to model wave‐driven, cross‐shore shoreline change incorporating multiple timescales is introduced. As a base, we use the equilibrium shoreline prediction model ShoreFor that accounts for a single timescale only. High‐resolution shoreline data collected at three distinctly different study sites is used to train...journal article 2021
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Blenkinsopp, Chris E. (author), Bayle, Paul M. (author), Conley, Daniel C. (author), Masselink, Gerd (author), Gulson, Emily (author), Kelly, Isabel (author), Rijper, Huub (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author)High quality laboratory measurements of nearshore waves and morphology change at, or near prototype-scale are essential to support new understanding of coastal processes and enable the development and validation of predictive models. The DynaRev experiment was completed at the GWK large wave flume over 8 weeks during 2017 to investigate the...journal article 2021
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Naporowski, Remy (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), Akrish, G. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author)Coastal safety assessments with wave-resolving storm impact models require a proper offshore description for the incoming infragravity (IG) waves. This boundary condition is generally obtained by assuming a local equilibrium between the directionally-spread incident sea-swell wave forcing and the bound IG waves. The contribution of the free...journal article 2021
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Gijón Mancheño, A. (author), Jansen, W. (author), Uijttewaal, W.S.J. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), van Rooijen, A. A. (author), Suzuki, T. (author), Etminan, V. (author), Winterwerp, J.C. (author)Mangrove vegetation constitutes a natural coastal defence against waves and erosion. Despite their protective role, mangrove ecosystems have experienced continuous degradation over the last decades due to human causes. At retreating mangrove coastlines, bamboo structures are built to create new habitat for mangrove colonization. Existing...journal article 2021
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de Ridder, Menno P. (author), Smit, Pieter B. (author), van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), McCall, Robert T. (author), Nederhoff, Kees (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)A 2-layer non-hydrostatic model with improved dispersive behaviour is presented. Due to the assumption of a constant non-hydrostatic pressure distribution in the lower layer, the dispersive behaviour is improved without much additional computational time. A comparison with linear wave theory showed that this 2-layer model gives a better...journal article 2021
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Bosboom, J. (author), Mol, M. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author), de Valk, C. F. (author)Although commonly used for the validation of morphological predictions, point-wise accuracy metrics, such as the root-mean-squared error (RMSE), are not well suited to demonstrate the quality of a high-variability prediction; in the presence of (often inevitable) location errors, the comparison of depth values per grid point tends to favour...journal article 2020
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Akrish, G. (author), Smit, Pieter (author), Zijlema, M. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Wave forecasting in ocean and coastal waters commonly relies on spectral models based on the spectral action balance equation. These models assume that different wave components are statistically independent and as a consequence cannot resolve wave interference due to statistical correlation between crossing waves, as may be found in, for...journal article 2020
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Tas, S.A.J. (author), van Maren, D.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Cheniers are important for stabilising mud-dominated coastlines. A chenier is a body of wave-reworked, coarse-grained sediment consisting of sand and shells overlying a muddy substrate. In this paper we present and analyse a week of field observations of the dynamics of a single chenier along the coast of Demak, Indonesia. Despite relatively...journal article 2020
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van Prooijen, Bram (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), de Wit, F.P. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author), Holzhauer, H. (author), Gawehn, M.A. (author), Antolínez, José A. Á. (author), de Vet, P.L.M. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Wang, Zhengbing (author), den Heijer, C. (author), Wilmink, R.J.A. (author)A large-scale field campaign was carried out on the ebb-tidal delta (ETD) of Ameland Inlet, a basin of the Wadden Sea in the Netherlands, as well as on three transects along the Dutch lower shoreface. The data have been obtained over the years 2017-2018. The most intensive campaign at the ETD of Ameland Inlet was in September 2017. With this...journal article 2020