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de Schipper, M.A. (author), Darnall, John (author), de Vries, S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Five years of beach topography data were examined to map the spatio-temporal patterns in beach scarp existence. Data of the Sand Engine were used, a mega scale nourishment implemented in 2011 at the Dutch coast. Topographic data were automatically and manually analyzed to recognize scarps in the dataset. Moments of destruction and persistence of...conference paper 2017
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Phan, M.H. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Ye, Qinghua (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author)The coastal zone of Mekong delta is suffering under intense pressures from climate change as well as human intervention. Currently, the coastline evolution of Mekong delta is a complex combination of impacts due to (1) relative sea level rise i.e. the sum of eustatic sea level rise, natural and human induced subsidence (2) sediment transport...conference paper 2017
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de Wit, F.P. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Coastal systems are influenced by a combination of waves and tides. In certain cases, tide-induced alongshore currents can be of similar order or even larger than wave-induced currents. Until now, however, no detailed wave-resolving modelling studies included tidal currents. This paper presents a method to implement alongshore tidal currents by...conference paper 2017
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Tas, S.A.J. (author), Gijón Mancheño, A. (author), Herman, P.M.J. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Uijttewaal, W.S.J. (author), Winterwerp, J.C. (author)In this paper the typical hydrodynamics on mangrove-mud coasts are studied. Worldwide, these coasts experience serious erosion problems, and while the importance of mangrove ecosystems is becoming widely recognised, mangrove restoration projects frequently fail due to poor understanding of the system, especially the hydrodynamics. Therefore, a...abstract 2017
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Colosimo, I. (author), van Prooijen, Bram (author), van Maren, D.S. (author), Winterwerp, J.C. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Port maintenance and nature preservation are two often conflicting aspects of coastal management. Within a Pilot Project in the Western Wadden Sea (the Netherlands - see Figure1a) we test a win-win solution that could reduce harbour siltation while simultaneously stimulate saltmarsh development.<br/>For this purpose, fine material, dredged in...abstract 2017
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Gijón Mancheño, A. (author), Tas, S.A.J. (author), Herman, P.M.J. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Uijttewaal, W.S.J. (author), Winterwerp, J.C. (author)During recent decades, mangrove forests have experienced severe degradation due to unsustainable land use. Restoration of mangrove ecosystems requires the recovery of their habitat, considering ecology, hydrology, hydrodynamics, and sediment transport. In a first pilot in 2013, brushwood dams were built on the eroding coast of Demak, Indonesia,...abstract 2017
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Shanks, Alan L. (author), Morgan, Steven G. (author), MacMahan, Jamie (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Larvae in the coastal ocean are transported toward shore by a variety of mechanisms. Crossing the surf zone is the last step in a shoreward migration and surf zones may act as semipermeable barriers altering delivery of larvae to the shore. We related variation in the structure of intertidal barnacle populations to surf zone width (surf zone...journal article 2017
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Mariano, A.J. (author), Ryan, E.H. (author), Huntley, H.S. (author), Laurindo, L.C. (author), Coelho, E. (author), Ozgokmen, TM (author), Berta, M. (author), Bogucki, D (author), Chen, S.S. (author), Curcic, M. (author), Drouin, K.L. (author), Gough, M (author), Haus, BK (author), Haza, A.C. (author), Hogan, P (author), Iskandarani, M (author), Jacobs, G (author), Kirwan Jr., A.D. (author), Laxague, N (author), Lipphardt Jr., B. (author), Magaldi, M.G. (author), Novelli, G. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Restrepo, J.M. (author), Smith, C (author), Valle-Levinson, A. (author), Wei, M. (author)The Grand LAgrangian Deployment (GLAD) used multiscale sampling and GPS technology to observe time series of drifter positions with initial drifter separation of O(100 m) to O(10 km), and nominal 5 min sampling, during the summer and fall of 2012 in the northern Gulf of Mexico. Histograms of the velocity field and its statistical parameters are...journal article 2016
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Radermacher, M. (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), Swinkels, Cilia M. (author), MacMahan, Jamie (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)In recent years, the application of large-scale beach nourishments has been discussed, with the Sand Motor in the Netherlands as the first real-world example. Such protruding beach nourishments have an impact on tidal currents, potentially leading to tidal flow separation and the generation of tidal eddies of<br/>length scales larger than the...journal article 2016
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Gawehn, M. (author), van Dongeren, AR (author), van Rooijen, A.A. (author), Storlazzi, C.D. (author), Cheriton, O.M. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Very low frequency (VLF, 0.001–0.005 Hz) waves are important drivers of flooding of low-lying coral reef-islands. In particular, VLF wave resonance is known to drive large wave runup and subsequent overwash. Using a 5 month data set of water levels and waves collected along a cross-reef transect on Roi-Namur Island in the Republic of the...journal article 2016
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Gough, M.K. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), MacMahan, JH (author), Howden, SD (author)The inertial frequency is nearly diurnal at 30°N latitude which transects the northeastern Gulf of Mexico (NeGoM). At this latitude, near-surface inertial oscillations can amplify due to resonance with diurnal wind forcing. Diurnal oscillations have also been attributed to diurnal tidal forcing in this region. Because tidal forcing, wind forcing...journal article 2016
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van Rooijen, A.A. (author), McCall, R.T. (author), van Thiel De Vries, J.S.M. (author), van Dongeren, AR (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Roelvink, D. (author)Aquatic vegetation in the coastal zone attenuates wave energy and reduces the risk of coastal hazards, e.g., flooding. Besides the attenuation of sea-swell waves, vegetation may also affect infragravity-band (IG) waves and wave setup. To date, knowledge on the effect of vegetation on IG waves and wave setup is lacking, while they are potentially...journal article 2016
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Gallagher, Edith (author), Wadman, Heidi (author), McNinch, Jesse (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Koktas, Melike (author)Grain size on the surface of natural beaches has been observed to vary spatially and temporally with morphology and wave energy. The stratigraphy of the beach at Duck, North Carolina, USA was examined using 36 vibracores (~1-1.5 m long) collected along a cross-shore beach profile. Cores show that beach sediments are finer (~0.3 mm) and more...journal article 2016
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Van Rooijen, A.A. (author), Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author), McCall, R.T. (author), Van Dongeren, A.R. (author), Roelvink, J.A. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Over the past decades the effect of vegetation (e.g. kelp, mangroves, sea grass) on nearshore coastal processes has received more and more attention. In recent years several numerical wave models have been extended to include this effect. In the current study, the numerical storm impact model XBeach was extended with formulations found in...conference paper 2015
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Radermacher, M. (author), Thackeray, Z.H. (author), De Schipper, M.A. (author), Gordon, L. (author), Chrystal, C. (author), Leuci, R. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Measurements of nearshore currents can be performed using a range of existing measurement techniques. Although every technique has its specific benefits, capturing strong spatial gradients in a flow field with sufficiently high spatial resolution often proves to be difficult due to high costs or practical difficulties associated with these...conference paper 2015
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Brown, J.A. (author), MacMahan, J.H. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Thornton, E.B. (author)Cross-shore exchange between the surf zone and the inner shelf is investigated using Lagrangian and Eulerian field measurements of rip current flows on a rip-channeled beach in Sand City, California. Surface drifters released on the inner shelf during weak wind conditions moved seaward due to rip current pulses and then returned shoreward in an...journal article 2015
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Shanks, A.L. (author), MacMahan, J. (author), Morgan, S.G. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Jarvis, M. (author), Brown, J. (author), Fujimura, A. (author), Griesemer, C. (author)Larvae of many intertidal species develop offshore and must cross the surf zone to complete their onshore migration to adult habitats. Depending on hydrodynamics, the surf zone may limit this migration, especially on reflective rocky shores. As a logistically tractable analog of a rocky shore environment, we carried out a comprehensive...journal article 2015
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Brouwer, R.L. (author), De Schipper, M.A. (author), Rynne, P.F. (author), Graham, F.J. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Macmahan, J.H. (author)This study investigates the potential of rotary wing unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs) to monitor the surfzone. This paper shows that these UAVs are extremely flexible surveying platforms that can gather nearcontinuous moderate spatial resolution and high temporal resolution imagery from a fixed position high above a study site. The rotary wing...journal article 2015
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Bogucki, D.J. (author), Huguenard, K. (author), Haus, B.K. (author), Özgökmen, T.M. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Laxague, N.J.M. (author)Our understanding of temperature dissipation rate ? within the upper ocean boundary layer, which is critical for climate forecasts, is very limited. Near-surface turbulence also affects dispersion of contaminants and biogeochemical tracers. Using high-resolution optical turbulence measurements, scaling laws for ? are investigated under forcing...journal article 2015
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Ortiz-Suslow, D.G. (author), Haus, B.K. (author), Williams, N.J. (author), Laxague, N.J.M. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Graber, H.C. (author)Coastal waters are an aerodynamically unique environment that has been little explored from an air-sea interaction point of view. Consequently, most studies must assume that open ocean-derived parameterizations of the air-sea momentum flux are representative of the nearshore wind forcing. Observations made at the New River Inlet in North...journal article 2015