Contribution of infragravity waves to run-up and overwash in the pertuis breton embayment (France)

Wave run-up and dune overwash are typically assessed using empirical models developed for a specific range of often-simplistic conditions. Field experiments are essential in extending these formulae; yet obtaining comprehensive field data under extreme conditions is often challenging. Here, we use XBeach Surfbeat (XB-SB)-a shortwave-averaged...

Nonhydrostatic and surfbeat model predictions of extreme wave run-up in fringing reef environments

The accurate prediction of extreme wave run-up is important for effective coastal engineering design and coastal hazard management. While run-up processes on open sandy coasts have been reasonably well-studied, very few studies have focused on understanding and predicting wave run-up at coral reef-fronted coastlines. This paper applies the short...

Does a more sophisticated storm erosion model improve probabilistic erosion estimates?

The dependency between the accuracy/uncertainty of storm erosion exceedance estimates obtained via a probabilistic model and the level of sophistication of the structural function (storm erosion model) embedded in the probabilistic model is assessed via the application of Callaghan et al.'s (2008) Joint Probability Model (JPM) at Narrabeen beach...

Morphological modelling of strongly curved islands

Land reclamations and island coasts often involve strongly curved shorelines, which are challenging to be properly modeled by numerical morphological models. Evaluation of the long term development of these types of coasts as well as their response to storm conditions requires proper representation of the governing physical processes. Not all...

Development and field validation of a 2DH curvilinear storm impact model

The formulations of the 2DH process-based, nearshore morphological model XBeach were extended to allow for curvilinear grids using a finite volume approach. The formulations were tested for schematic cases such as a circular island and a field validation study was carried out for the case of storm erosion during a construction phase of the soft...