Initial spreading of a mega feeder nourishment: Observations of the Sand Engine pilot project

Infragravity-wave dynamics in a barred coastal region, a numerical study

This paper presents a comprehensive numerical study into the infragravity-wave dynamics at a field site, characterized by a gently sloping barred beach. The nonhydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH was used to simulate the local wavefield for a range of wave conditions (including mild and storm conditions). The extensive spatial coverage of the...

Individual wave height distributions in the coastal zone: Measurements and simulations and the effect of directional spreading

Characteristics of the individual wave height distribution in shallow water have been investigated using measured wave data and results of numerical simulations using the non-hydrostatic SWASH model. It is shown that the SWASH model is capable of reproducing the temporal and spatial variation of surface elevation in a wave flume and the...

Modelling aeolian sediment accumulations on a beach

This paper aims to conceptually simulate observed spatial and temporal variability in aeolian sediment transport rates, erosion and deposition on a beach. Traditional strategies of modeling aeolian sediment transport rates do not account for supply limitations that are common on natural beaches. A recently developed 1D linear advection model is...

Input reduction for long-term morphodynamic simulations

Input reduction is imperative to long-term (> years) morphodynamic simulations to avoid excessive computation times. Here, we discuss the input-reduction framework for wave-dominated coastal settings introduced by Walstra et al. (2013). The framework comprised 4 steps, viz. (1) the selection of the duration of the original (full) time series of...

The ECORS-Truc Vert’08 nearshore field experiment: Presentation of a three-dimensional morphologic system in a macro-tidal environment during consecutive extreme storm conditions

A large multi-institutional nearshore field experiment was conducted at Truc Vert, on the Atlantic coast of France in early 2008. Truc Vert’08 was designed to measure beach change on a long, sandy stretch of coast without engineering works with emphasis on large winter waves (offshore significant wave height up to 8 m), a three-dimensional...

Wave boundary layer hydrodynamics during onshore bar migration

To study onshore bar migration and the accompanying intra-wave sediment transport a wave flume experiment was conducted. The wave flume had a rigid bottom with a single bar profile. The focus of the experiment was to measure the hydrodynamics in the wave bottom boundary layer. The results show that the skewness of bottom stress is not only...

Calibration tool for SWAN: Activity 8.2 of SBW project Waddenzee, part 2 : selection of appropriate calibration techniques

Calibration tool for SWAN: Activity 8.1 and 8.2 of SBW project Waddenzee - Part 1: analysis of requirements

Adviezen voor het maken van een gezamenlijke zandbalans voor Westerschelde en monding

Ruimtelijke en temporele aspecten van de duinvoetdynamiek

De huidige studie is uitgevoerd in het kader van de doelfinanciering V&W met als onderwerp `Veerkracht van de kust' . In de berekeningswijze van de veerkracht (Baan et al ., 1999) wordt gebruik gemaakt van een parameter die de dynamiek in de duinvoetpositie voor een kustraai beschrijft. Hierbij wordt onder dynamiek de fluctuaties ('veerkracht')...

Onderzoek naar lange golven bij Petten (deel A en B)