Searched for: author%3A%22Smit%2C+P.B.%22
(1 - 15 of 15)
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Akrish, G. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Smit, P.B. (author)
Spectral information of coastal waves and the associated statistical parameters (e.g., the significant wave height and mean wave period) over large spatial scales is essential for many applications (e.g., coastal safety assessments, coastal management and developments, etc.). This demand explains the necessity for accurate yet effective...
journal article 2024
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Akrish, G. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Smit, P.B. (author)
Coastal wave forecasting over large spatial scales is essential for many applications (e.g., coastal safety assessments, coastal management and developments, etc.). This demand explains the necessity for accurate yet effective models. A well-known efficient modelling approach is the quadratic approach (often referred to as frequency-domain...
journal article 2024
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Smit, P.B. (author), Janssen, T.T. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author)
Refractive focusing of swell waves can result in fast-scale variations in the wave statistics because of wave interference, which cannot be resolved by stochastic wave models based on the radiative transport equation. Quasi-coherent statistical theory does account for such statistical interferences and the associated wave inhomogeneities, but...
journal article 2015
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De Bakker, A.T.M. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Ruessink, B.G. (author)
A high-resolution dataset of three irregular wave conditions collected on a gently sloping laboratory beach is analyzed to study nonlinear energy transfers involving infragravity frequencies. This study uses bispectral analysis to identify the dominant, nonlinear interactions and estimate energy transfers to investigate energy flows within the...
journal article 2015
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Salmon, J.E. (author), Holthuijsen, L.H. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Van Vledder, G.P. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)
This paper presents the application of new source terms in SWAN for the dominant water wave physics in the coastal zone: depth-induced breaking and triad wave-wave interactions. We present results demonstrating increased modelling skill in the prediction of bulk wave parameters e.g. significant wave height and of the spectral shape compared to...
conference paper 2014
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Smit, P.B. (author)
Predicting the mean wave statistics in the nearshore, for instance the significant wave height, has predominantly been the domain of operational stochastic wave models based on the radiative transport (or energy balance) equation. Although reasonably successful in the nearshore, these models were originally developed for oceanic scales, and...
doctoral thesis 2014
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Zijlema, M. (author), Van Vledder, G.P. (author), Holthuijsen, L.H. (author), Salmon, J.E. (author), Smit, P.B. (author)
The SWAN model is a third-generation spectral wave prediction model developed by Delft University of Technology. Since its initial release in 1998 this model has become a widely used and reliable tool for offshore and near shore wave predictions. Its main field of application is the coastal zone where, by virtue of its implicit numerical scheme,...
conference paper 2013
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Smit, P.B. (author), Janssen, T.T. (author)
The interaction of ocean waves with variable currents and topography in coastal areas can result in inhomogeneous statistics because of coherent interferences, which affect wave-driven circulation and transport processes. Stochastic wave models, invariably based on some form of the radiative transfer equation (or action balance), do not account...
journal article 2013
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)
This paper presents numerical modelling of the nearshore transformation of infragravity waves induced by bichromatic wave groups over a horizontal and a sloping bottom. The non-hydrostatic model SWASH is assessed by comparing model predictions with analytical solutions over a horizontal bottom and with detailed laboratory observations for a...
conference paper 2012
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Smit, P.B. (author), Janssen, T.T. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author)
Refraction of narrow-band surface waves in coastal areas can result in wave-focal zones where due to interference, wave statistics vary rapidly and on similar length scales as those of individual waves. However such interference patterns, or wave coherence, are not accounted for in conventional stochastic wave models that are based on the energy...
conference paper 2012
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Smit, P.B. (author), Janssen, T.T. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author)
Refraction of narrow-band surface waves in coastal areas can result in wave-focal zones where due to interference, wave statistics vary rapidly and on similar length scales as those of individual waves. However such interference patterns, or wave coherence, are not accounted for in conventional stochastic wave models that are based on the energy...
conference paper 2012
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)
This paper presents numerical modelling of the nearshore transformation of infragravity waves induced by bichromatic wave groups over a horizontal and a sloping bottom. The non-hydrostatic model SWASH is assessed by comparing model predictions with analytical solutions over a horizontal bottom and with detailed laboratory observations for a...
conference paper 2012
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Zijlema, M. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Stelling, G.S. (author)
conference paper 2011
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Smit, P.B. (author), Janssen, T.T. (author)
Wave fields traveling through a varying medium (e.g. topography, currents), can develop well-defined focal zones and caustics, where the wave field is highly coherent and wave statistics vary rapidly. However, the presence and evolution of such coherent structures in the wave field are not resolved in a quasi-homogeneous description of the wave...
conference paper 2011
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Smit, P.B. (author)
The Indian Ocean Tsunami has once again revived the discussion in the tsunami modelling community if the non-linear shallow water equations are a valid model for the propagation of tsunamis. It is suggested that the mechanism of frequency dispersion which is absent in these equations might be important in the correct modelling of large scale...
master thesis 2008
Searched for: author%3A%22Smit%2C+P.B.%22
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