Rip current predictions through model-data assimilation on two distinct beaches

This paper describes the development of a physics-based rip current prediction system called CoSMoS. This system consists of a hydrodynamic prediction system which is composed of a train of surge and wave models from the global scale to the scale of a beach resort (order kilometers). For the beach resort scale model, it is of utmost importance...

A comprehensive sediment budget for the Mississippi Barrier Islands

In order to conceive any realistic plan for post-Katrina island restoration, it is necessary to understand the physical processes that move sand along the littoral drift zone off the coast of Mississippi. This littoral zone influences the character of the Mississippi barrier islands as they exist in an ever changing cycle. To help in this...

Technical feasibility of energy conversion from salinity gradients along the Ducth coast: A case study at IJmuiden

In the mixing process of water with different salinities a large amount of energy is released, which is normally converted into heat if fresh water rivers enter estuaries and seas. This energy, often referred to as Blue Energy, may be extracted by two different processes: Reversed Electrodialysis (RED) or Pressure Retarded Osmosis (PRO). The...

Morphodynamic upscaling with the MORFAC approach

The Morphological Acceleration Factor (MORFAC) approach for morphodynamic upscaling enables the simulation of long term coastal evolution. However the general validity of the MORFAC concept for coastal applications has not yet been comprehensively investigated. Furthermore, a robust and objective method for the a priori determination of the...