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Sous, Damien (author), Martins, Kévin (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Bouchette, Frédéric (author), Meulé, Samuel (author)The present paper reports on a field experiment performed over a shallow, roughness-varying barrier reef at Maupiti island, French Polynesia. The spectral wave energy balance is examined, outside the breaking zone and accounting for non-linear transfers and mean current, to estimate the wave friction factor. This latter varies from 0.05 to 4,...journal article 2023
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Including the effect of depth-uniform ambient currents on waves in a non-hydrostatic wave-flow modelRijnsdorp, D.P. (author), van Rooijen, Arnold (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), de Wit, F.P. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)Currents can affect the evolution of waves in nearshore regions through altering their wavenumber and amplitude. Including the effect of ambient currents (e.g., tidal and wind-driven) on waves in phase-resolving wave models is not straightforward as it requires appropriate boundary conditions in combination with a large domain size and long...journal article 2023
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Roubos, Jochem (author), Glasbergen, Toni (author), Hofland, B. (author), Bricker, J.D. (author), Zijlema, M. (author), Esteban, Miguel (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author)To calculate tsunami forces on coastal structures it is of great importance to determine the shape of the tsunami front reaching the coast. Based on literature reviews, analytical reasoning,video footage, and numerical modelling it is concluded that both the continental shelf slope and the bay geometry have a significant influence on the...journal article 2021
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de Beer, A. F. (author), McCall, R. T. (author), Long, J. W. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)The prediction of wave runup, as well as its components, time-averaged setup and the time-varying swash, is a key element of coastal storm hazard assessments, as wave runup controls the transitions between morphodynamic response types such as dune erosion and overwash, and the potential for flooding by wave overtopping. While theoretically...journal article 2021
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Anarde, Katherine (author), Cheng, Wei (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Figlus, Jens (author), Horrillo, Juan (author)Meteotsunami waves can be triggered by atmospheric disturbances accompanying tropical cyclone rainbands (TCRs) before, during, and long after a tropical cyclone (TC) makes landfall. Due to a paucity of high-resolution field data along open coasts during TCs, relatively little is known about the atmospheric forcing that generate and resonantly...journal article 2021
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Blenkinsopp, Chris E. (author), Bayle, Paul M. (author), Conley, Daniel C. (author), Masselink, Gerd (author), Gulson, Emily (author), Kelly, Isabel (author), Rijper, Huub (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author)High quality laboratory measurements of nearshore waves and morphology change at, or near prototype-scale are essential to support new understanding of coastal processes and enable the development and validation of predictive models. The DynaRev experiment was completed at the GWK large wave flume over 8 weeks during 2017 to investigate the...journal article 2021
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Naporowski, Remy (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), Akrish, G. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author)Coastal safety assessments with wave-resolving storm impact models require a proper offshore description for the incoming infragravity (IG) waves. This boundary condition is generally obtained by assuming a local equilibrium between the directionally-spread incident sea-swell wave forcing and the bound IG waves. The contribution of the free...journal article 2021
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Sous, D. (author), Dodet, G. (author), Bouchette, Frédéric (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author)This paper reports on a combined experimental and numerical study dedicated to barrier reefs hydrodynamics. A network of pressure sensors and velocity profilers has been deployed for more than 2 months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The primary aim of the study is to assess the relevance of the classical depth-averaged momentum...journal article 2020
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van Prooijen, Bram (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), de Wit, F.P. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author), Holzhauer, H. (author), Gawehn, M.A. (author), Antolínez, José A. Á. (author), de Vet, P.L.M. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Wang, Zhengbing (author), den Heijer, C. (author), Wilmink, R.J.A. (author)A large-scale field campaign was carried out on the ebb-tidal delta (ETD) of Ameland Inlet, a basin of the Wadden Sea in the Netherlands, as well as on three transects along the Dutch lower shoreface. The data have been obtained over the years 2017-2018. The most intensive campaign at the ETD of Ameland Inlet was in September 2017. With this...journal article 2020
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de Wit, F.P. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)The nonlinear wave shape, expressed by skewness and asymmetry, can be calculated from surface elevation or pressure time series using bispectral analysis. Here, it is shown that the same analysis technique can be used to calculate the bound superharmonic wave height. Using measured near-bed pressures from three different field experiments, it...journal article 2020
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Anarde, Katherine (author), Figlus, Jens (author), Sous, Damien (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author)Infragravity (IG) waves are expected to contribute significantly to coastal flooding and sediment transport during hurricane overwash, yet the dynamics of these low-frequency waves during hurricane impact remain poorly documented and understood. This paper utilizes hydrodynamic measurements collected during Hurricane Harvey (2017) across a...journal article 2020
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), de Wit, F.P. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author), Brakenhof, L.B. (author), van der Vegt, M. (author), Mol, J. (author), van Prooijen, Bram (author)A combination of observations and modeling of wave-and current-related sediment transport at the ebb-tidal delta of Ameland, The Netherlands, has been used to examine the dominant sediment transport contributions shaping the ebb-tidal delta. The calibrated model shows a good comparison with the observations for a range of conditions. The results...conference paper 2019
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de Wit, F.P. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Field measurements of waves and currents were obtained at ten locations on an ebb-tidal shoal seaward of Ameland Inlet for a six-week period. These measurements were used to investigate the evolution of the near-bed velocity skewness and asymmetry, as these are important drivers for wave-induced sediment tranport. Wave shape parameters were...journal article 2019
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Sous, Damien (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Rey, Vincent (author), Touboul, Julien (author), Bouchette, Frédéric (author), Devenon, Jean Luc (author), Chevalier, Cristele (author), Aucan, Jerôme (author)This paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. The field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The combined...journal article 2019
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Klaver, S. (author), Nederhoff, C. M. (author), Giardino, A. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), van Dongeren, A. R. (author), van der Spek, A.J.F. (author)Small island developing states are among the most vulnerable areas to the impact of natural hazards and climate change. Flooding due to storm surges and extreme waves, coastal erosion, and salinization of freshwater lenses are already a serious threat and could lead to irreversible consequences in the coming decades. Reef flat mining is one...journal article 2019
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Pearson, S.G. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author)The curious undular bore<br/>Propagates onward to shore<br/>The energy flies<br/>From low freqs to high<br/>Until the wavefront is no moreposter 2018
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Pearson, S.G. (author), Storlazzi, C.D. (author), van Dongeren, A. R. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Many low-elevation, coral reef-lined, tropical coasts are vulnerable to the effects of climate change, sea level rise, and wave-induced flooding. The considerable morphological diversity of these coasts and the variability of the hydrodynamic forcing that they are exposed to make predicting wave-induced flooding a challenge. A process-based...journal article 2017
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Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Bonneton, P (author), Ruessink, Gerben (author)The phenomenon of bore merging is investigated using two high-resolution laboratory experiments including bichromatic and irregular wave conditions. The locations at which waves start merging are identified and the hydrodynamic conditions in the vicinity of the merging points are examined. Bore merging takes place in the inner surf zone for all...conference paper 2017
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de Wit, F.P. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Coastal systems are influenced by a combination of waves and tides. In certain cases, tide-induced alongshore currents can be of similar order or even larger than wave-induced currents. Until now, however, no detailed wave-resolving modelling studies included tidal currents. This paper presents a method to implement alongshore tidal currents by...conference paper 2017
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de Bakker, J.C. (author), Brinkkemper, J. A. (author), van der Steen, F. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Ruessink, B. G. (author)Two field data sets of near-bed velocity, pressure, and sediment concentration are analyzed to study the influence of infragravity waves on sand suspension and cross-shore transport. On the moderately sloping Sand Motor beach (≈1:35), the local ratio of infragravity wave height to sea-swell wave height is relatively small (H<sub>IG</sub>/H...journal article 2016
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