Alongshore variability of nourished and natural beaches

Alongshore variability in topography (i.e. height differences in bed level along the coast) can exist on both natural and nourished beaches. An important question prior to implementation of a nourishment project is how alongshore variability is going to evolve and, related to this variability, the effect of the project upon swimmer safety. In...

On the generation of surfable ship waves in a circular pool: Part I: physical background & wave pool design

Surfing as a sport is growing. Locations with good surfing conditions are limited and therefore crowded. The growing interest for the sport led to a new concept, surf pools. Surf pools mimic good surfing conditions found along the coast. This thesis is about the technical feasibility of a new surf pool concept, creating surfing waves in a...