Lagrangian sediment transport modelling as a tool for investigating Coastal connectivity

Estuaries and coasts can be conceptualized as connected networks of water and sediment fluxes. These dynamic geomorphic systems are governed by waves, tides, wind, and river input, and evolve according to complex nonlinear transport processes. To predict their evolution, we need to better understand the pathways that sediment takes from source...

Lagrangian sediment transport modelling as a tool for investigating coastal connectivity

Estuaries and coasts can be conceptualized as connected networks of water and sediment fluxes. These dynamic geomorphic systems are governed by waves, tides, wind, and river input, and evolve according to complex nonlinear transport processes. To predict their evolution, we need to better understand the pathways that sediment takes from source...

Morphological impact of a storm can be predicted three days ahead

People living behind coastal dunes depend on the strength and resilience of dunes for their safety. Forecasts of hydrodynamic conditions and morphological change on a timescale of several days can provide essential information to protect lives and property. In order for forecasts to protect they need be relevant, accurate, provide lead time,...

Modelling dune erosion, overwash and breaching at Fire Island (NY) during hurricane Sandy

In 2012, Hurricane Sandy caused a breach at Fire Island (NY, USA), near Pelican Island. This paper aims at modelling dune erosion, overwash and breaching processes that occured during the hurricane event at this stretch of coast with the numerical model XBeach. By using the default settings, the erosion rates are substantially overestimated,...

Rip current predictions through model-data assimilation on two distinct beaches

This paper describes the development of a physics-based rip current prediction system called CoSMoS. This system consists of a hydrodynamic prediction system which is composed of a train of surge and wave models from the global scale to the scale of a beach resort (order kilometers). For the beach resort scale model, it is of utmost importance...

Quasi-3D modelling of surf zone dynamics

A quasi-three-dimensional model (quasi-3D) has been developed through the implementation of an analytical 1DV flow model in existing depth-averaged shallow water equations. The model includes the effects of waves and wind on the vertical distribution of the horizontal velocities. Comparisons with data from both physical and field cases show that...

Real-time forecasting of morphological storm impacts: A case study in the Netherlands

Recent events like the Sumatra tsunami and Hurricane Katrina have reminded the world of the vulnerability of coastal areas to extreme events. Despite hydraulic engineering measures to minimize failure probability of coastal defence structures, a probability of failure, albeit small, remains. To assist local authorities and the population in...