Measurements of morphodynamics of a sheltered beach along the Dutch Wadden Sea

A field campaign was carried out at a sheltered sandy beach with the aim of gaining new insights into the driving processes behind sheltered beach morphodynamics. Detailed measurements of the local hydrodynamics, bed-level changes and sediment composition were collected at a man-made beach on the leeside of the barrier island Texel, bordering...

North sea infragravity wave observations

Coastal safety assessments with wave-resolving storm impact models require a proper offshore description for the incoming infragravity (IG) waves. This boundary condition is generally obtained by assuming a local equilibrium between the directionally-spread incident sea-swell wave forcing and the bound IG waves. The contribution of the free...

Sensitivity of rip current forecasts to errors in remotely-sensed bathymetry

Operational nearshore current forecasts based on numerical model simulations are gaining popularity as a measure to increase the safety of swimmers. Applying remotely-sensed bathymetry in these model simulations is often proposed in order to cope with rapidly changing nearshore bathymetry. Errors in the remotely-sensed bathymetry may...

Behaviour of subtidal sandbars in response to nourishments

The behaviour of subtidal sandbars can be strongly influenced by the introduction of sand nourishments in the coastal system. This study focuses on the impact of nourishments on subtidal bar behaviour at spatio-temporal scales beyond a single nourishment project. It aims to determine the long-term behaviour of subtidal sandbars along an entire...

Long-term bar dynamics using satellite imagery: A case study at Anmok beach, South Korea

Nearshore sandbar patterns can affect the hydrodynamics and, as a result, the beach morphodynamics in the nearshore zone. Hence, spatial and temporal variability in the sandbars can influence beach accretion and erosion. Understanding the variability of the sandbar system can therefore be crucial for informed coastal zone management. So far, the...

Evolution of alongshore bathymetric variability around a mega-scale beach nourishment

The presence of complex nearshore sand bar patterns (i.e. alongshore bathymetric variability) has an impact on local currents, affecting recreational safety and nearshore mixing processes. This study assesses the evolution of alongshore bathymetric variability along the Delfland coast in The Netherlands, over the first 5 years after construction...

Beach scarp evolution and prediction

Five years of beach topography data were examined to map the spatio-temporal patterns in beach scarp existence. Data of the Sand Engine were used, a mega scale nourishment implemented in 2011 at the Dutch coast. Topographic data were automatically and manually analyzed to recognize scarps in the dataset. Moments of destruction and persistence of...

Tidal flow separation at protruding beach nourishments

In recent years, the application of large-scale beach nourishments has been discussed, with the Sand Motor in the Netherlands as the first real-world example. Such protruding beach nourishments have an impact on tidal currents, potentially leading to tidal flow separation and the generation of tidal eddies of<br/>length scales larger than the...