Searched for: classification%3A%22TLJ400200%22
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Mol, A.C.S. (author)
Measurements have been carried out at the Paulinaschor, a salt marsh in the Westerschelde, to obtain information of the effect of vegetation on wave attenuation. The data have been analyzed. It appears that wave height is strongly reduced by the vegetation, especially for low water depths. Further analysis of the data has been done, to achieve...
report 2003
document
Anonymus, A. (author)
In this text we will discuss the actions that were taken to solve the 2D surf beat equations which prescribe the forcing of waves through dissipation of short waves. The equations were solved by using and adapting the already available subroutines in TRISULA which are used there to solve the transport of pollutants. The variations in short wave...
report 1997
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Rodriguez, A. (author)
Background information related to a large study on the hydrodynamics of the surf zone, with focus on the Ebro Delta. Part A consists of a reprint of some articles, part B describes various field experiments all over the world, Part C gives all collected data during the 1993 field campaign in the Campañas delta.
report 1997
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Peregrine, D.H. (author)
Water waves break as they advance over a gently sloping beach for all off-shore sea states except for the calmest conditions. Most theoretical, experimental and field studies have been directed to this type of wave breaking, yet waves can break with greater violence on steep slopes and close to coastal structures and cliffs. Further, on those...
report 1992
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Roelvink, J.A. (author)
The transformation of certain parameters of an incident random wave train across the surf zone has been the subject of much study and modelling effort. In recent literature, two classes of models have been developed, which are both based on the wave energy balance or the wave action equation, but use markedly different approaches. The main goal...
report 1992
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Okayasu, A. (author)
The characteristic motion of water under breaking waves and the turbulence structure in the surf zone were investigated through detailed two-dimensional velocity measurements in a wave flume. Significant difference was found between the breaking processes in the outer and inner regions of the surf zone. The velocity field in each region consists...
report 1989
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Van Heteren, J. (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author)
Realistic modelling of the internal kinematics of wind waves breaking on a beach is of great practical importance, e.g. for the modelling of coastal processes and for the design of coastal structures. A fundarnental aspect in this modelling concerns. the relation between the surface elevation and the internal kinematics. In this respect it...
report 1985
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Wallace, N.R. (author)
This is a presentation of recent computer results from a previously published theory of the deformation of solitary waves on a sloping beach. No attempt will be made here to review or derive the pertinent equations, and only those geometrical aspects of the theory will be introduced which are necessary for interpretation of the results. The...
report 1965
document
Miche, M. (author)
Cette Note fait suite à une communication préliminaire présentée à la Section d'Hydraulique fluviale et maritime de la Société Hydrotechnique de France. Elle expose un mode de calcul, en accord suffisant avec les données expérimentales, du pouvoir réfléchissant des ouvrages maritimes. Ce calcul, qui peut être fort abrégé· par l'emploi d' abaques...
report 1951
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Miche, M. (author)
Dans cet exposé préliminaire, nous confronterons dans l’ordre ci-dessus, les faits avec les théories en cours, nous en indiquerons. quelque points faible et le améliorations ou compléments que nous entendons y apporter comme constituant le but de cette étude. Nous préciserons et justifierons le choix de méthodes de calcul et d'approximation...
report 1944
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