Nonlinear Evolution of Shear Instabilities of the Longshore Current

Surface gravity waves breaking in the nearshore region force a longshore surf zone current. This current can be unstable to longshore periodic perturbations. The continuity and momentum conservation equations averaged over the short wave time scales and over depth present a suitable basis for the modeling of these motions. The governing...

Analyse brandingsstroommetingen nabij Joossesweg (Westkapelle)

In de periode maart tot april 1985 heeft de Adviesdienst Vlissingen enige brandingsstroommetingen uitgevoerd voor de kust van Walcheren ter hoogte van Joossesweg (nabij Westkapelle). Het doel van het meetonderzoek is het verkrijgen van meer inzicht in de veranderingen die optreden op een gesuppleerd strand ten gevolge van stroom en golven. Met...

Erosion côtière au Cap Lopez, Gabon, due à un canyon sous-marin

Analysis of the effect of a submarine canyon on the coastal erosion near Cap Lopez, Gabon, using mathematical modelling

An analysis of longshore currents and associated sediment transport in the surf zone

Two momentum based longshore current models and a preliminary longshore sediment transport model are derived, calibrated and tested in the present investigation. The Linear Longshore Current Model predicts the relatively small longshore current induced by monochromatic, two dimensional, gravity waves of finite height and near normal incidence...

Growth of longshore currents downstream of a surf-zone barrier

Momentum flux considerations are used to formulate a differential equation governing the growth, with distance, of the mean longshore current velocity in the surf-zone on a plane, impermeable beach due to monochromatic waves. The equation is solved for the flow situation downstream of a surf-zone barrier and is shown to compare favorably with...

Increase of bottom shearstress of a current due to wave motion

Due to the increased velocity vector in the case of current combined with waves the bottom shear stress in the direction of the current will increase. This increase has been derived and the derivation has been checked by measurements.

Experimental study of longshore currents on a plane beach

Measurements are made of the characteristics of breaking waves and the resulting longshore currents for 34 combinations of wave height (up to 0.22 feet), period (0.90 to 1.50 seconds), and breaker angle (up to 320), along a 20 foot test section of a 30 foot plane, smooth concrete beach with a 0.104 slope. Techniques are developed to measure the...