Beach scarp evolution and prediction

Five years of beach topography data were examined to map the spatio-temporal patterns in beach scarp existence. Data of the Sand Engine were used, a mega scale nourishment implemented in 2011 at the Dutch coast. Topographic data were automatically and manually analyzed to recognize scarps in the dataset. Moments of destruction and persistence of...

On the accuracy of automated shoreline detection derived from satellite imagery: A case study of the Sand Motor mega-scale nourishment

Measured trends and variability in shoreline position are used by coastal managers, scientists and engineers to understand and monitor coastal systems. This paper presents a new and generic method for automated shoreline detection from the largely unexplored collection of publicly available satellite imagery. The position of the obtained...

Long-term bar dynamics using satellite imagery: A case study at Anmok beach, South Korea

Nearshore sandbar patterns can affect the hydrodynamics and, as a result, the beach morphodynamics in the nearshore zone. Hence, spatial and temporal variability in the sandbars can influence beach accretion and erosion. Understanding the variability of the sandbar system can therefore be crucial for informed coastal zone management. So far, the...

Aeolian modelling of coastal landform development

In order to improve the current aeolian modeling, a process-based model is developed by implementing biological and physical processes adapted from different existing models. The current version of the model is capable of simulating barchan and parabolic dunes and the initial stage of coastal dune formation: Embryo dunes. Potentially the model...

Cross-shore intertidal bar behavior along the dutch coast: Laser measurements and conceptual model

Intertidal bars are naturally occurring morphological features along the waterline of sandy beaches. Present quantitative knowledge on intertidal bar behavior is limited, due to the scarcity of data resources and the limitations of traditional survey techniques. To investigate and quantify the cross-shore morphologic behavior of intertidal...

Modelling cross‐shore shoreline change on multiple timescales and their interactions

In this paper, a new approach to model wave‐driven, cross‐shore shoreline change incorporating multiple timescales is introduced. As a base, we use the equilibrium shoreline prediction model ShoreFor that accounts for a single timescale only. High‐resolution shoreline data collected at three distinctly different study sites is used to train...

Novel sediment sampling method provides new insights into vertical grain size variability due to marine and aeolian beach processes

In sandy beach systems, the aeolian sediment transport can be governed by the vertical structure of the sediment layers at the bed surface. Here, data collected with a newly developed sand scraper is presented to determine high-resolution vertical grain size variability and how it is affected by marine and aeolian processes. Sediment samples...

Cross-shore transformation of bound and free infragravity waves off the Dutch coast

Infragravity (IG) waves are key drivers for coastal erosion and thus need to be properly included in process-based modelling of coastal hazards. Uncertainties remain regarding the offshore boundary conditions for these long waves. Typically, only bound IG waves are included at the boundary, which means that the possible contribution of free IG...

Modeling Multi-Fraction Coastal Aeolian Sediment Transport With Horizontal and Vertical Grain-Size Variability

Grain size affects the rates of aeolian sediment transport on beaches. Sediment in coastal environments typically consists of multiple grain-size fractions and exhibits spatiotemporal variations. Still, conceptual and numerical aeolian transport models are simplified and often only include a single fraction that is constant over the model...

Dune erosion during storm surges: A review of the observations, physics and modelling of the collision regime

Dune erosion during storm surges can lead to excessive damage to the dune system with devastating floods as a potential consequence. A risk assessment of areas protected by dunes can be facilitated by an understanding and description of the physical processes that take place. Field measurements, knowledge of underlying processes and numerical...