Infra-gravity wave transformation across macro-tidal rocky shore platforms.

This thesis investigates the governing generating mechanisms, shoaling and reflection behaviour of infra-gravity waves on a mild-sloping, macro-tidal, rocky shore platform. The methods comprise among others, field data analysis of the Lilstock platform, numerical modelling using a calibrated XBeach model and a cross-correlation analysis to...

Video-based nearshore bathymetry estimation for Rip current forecasting on a macrotidal beach

Rip currents are seaward directed flows of water that traverse the surf zone, and in many cases pose potentially dangerous conditions for swimmers and beach users. The present study is carried out focusing on Perranporth beach, UK, which is known to present quite strong rip current events that have been the culprits of large numbers of incidents...