Energy dissipation in random breaking waves: The probability of breaking

The present wave transformation models for random waves make use of an explicit formulation of the energy dissipation. A time-averaged model has been studied in which the dissipation rate per breaking wave is estimated from that in a bore of corresponding height. The probability of occurrence of breaking is derived from a wave height...

Energieverloop en golfopstuwing bij brekende onregelmatige golven: Metingen en berekeningen

A description is given of a model developed for the prediction of the dissipation of energy in random waves breaking on a beach. The dissipation rate per breaking wave is estimated from that in a bore of corresponding height, while the probability of occurrence of breaking waves is estimated on the basis of a wave height distribution with an...