Recent insights into inter-annual sandbar dynamics

Based on model hindcasts of the bar cycle at two locations along the Dutch coast, the dominant processes and mechanisms that govern the bar amplitude growth and decay during net inter-annual offshore migration, the occurrence of bar switches and the inter-site differences in the bar cycle return period (Tr) are identified. Bar growth and decay...

How tides and waves enhance aeolian sediment transport at the sand motor mega-nourishment

Expanding knowledge concerning the close entanglement between subtidal and subaerial processes in coastal environments initiated the development of the open-source Windsurf modeling framework that enables us to simulate<br/>multi-fraction sediment transport due to subtidal and subaerial processes simultaneously. The Windsurf framework couples...

Beach growth driven by intertidal sandbar welding

Seasonal variability in wave conditions drive corresponding cycles of erosion and accretion along sandy beaches. Despite the fact that these oscillations are well documented at numerous sites throughout the world, the physical processes driving beach recovery remain poorly understood. Using field data from a low sloping, dissipative beach in the...

Measured spatial variability of beach erosion due to aeolian processes.

This paper shows the first results of measured spatial variability of beach erosion due to aeolian processes during the recently conducted SEDEX2 field experiment at Long Beach, Washington, U.S.A.. Beach erosion and sedimentation were derived using series of detailed terrestrial LIDAR measurements of beach morphology during three low tide...

Coastscan: Continuous monitoring of coastal change using terrestrial laser scanning

Sandy coasts are vulnerable to predicted climate change, but also need to safeguard coastal housing, recreation, safety and ecology. “Building with Nature” is an important approach for resilient coastal maintenance, but corresponding predictive modelling tools are partly inconclusive, due to a lack of measurements over multiple spatial and...

Beach scarp evolution and prediction

Five years of beach topography data were examined to map the spatio-temporal patterns in beach scarp existence. Data of the Sand Engine were used, a mega scale nourishment implemented in 2011 at the Dutch coast. Topographic data were automatically and manually analyzed to recognize scarps in the dataset. Moments of destruction and persistence of...

Long term coastline monitoring derived from satellite imagery

Integrated modelling of the morphological evolution of the sand engine mega-nourishment

This study presents some recent developments in coastal morphological modeling focusing on flexible meshes, flexible coupling between models operating at different time scales, and a recently developed morphodynamic model for the intertidal and dry beach. This integrated modeling approach is applied to the Sand Engine mega nourishment in The...

Measuring and modelling overwash hydrodynamics on a barrier island

Overwash hydrodynamics datasets are mixed in quality and scope, being hard to obtain due to fieldwork experimental difficulties. Aiming to overcome such limitations, this work presents accurate fieldwork data on overwash<br/>hydrodynamics, further exploring it to model overwash on a low-lying barrier island. Fieldwork was performed on Barreta...

Understanding coastal erosion processes at the Korean east coast

Incipient motion of sand-oil agglomerates

Long-term morphological modelling: combining storm impact and daily conditions in an integrated modeling framework

Response in the mekong deltaic coast to its changing sediment sources and sinks

The coastal zone of Mekong delta is suffering under intense pressures from climate change as well as human intervention. Currently, the coastline evolution of Mekong delta is a complex combination of impacts due to (1) relative sea level rise i.e. the sum of eustatic sea level rise, natural and human induced subsidence (2) sediment transport...

Uncertainty assessment in coastal morphology prediction with a bayesian network

In the present time of sea-level rise and climate change a global shift has occurred toward sandy coastal protection measures and Building with Nature. These type of protection measures impose extra uncertainty on the instantaneous state of the coastal system over time for which present deterministic forecasting techniques are not capable of...

Including tidal currents in a wave-resolving model

Coastal systems are influenced by a combination of waves and tides. In certain cases, tide-induced alongshore currents can be of similar order or even larger than wave-induced currents. Until now, however, no detailed wave-resolving modelling studies included tidal currents. This paper presents a method to implement alongshore tidal currents by...

Infragravity waves and bore merging

The phenomenon of bore merging is investigated using two high-resolution laboratory experiments including bichromatic and irregular wave conditions. The locations at which waves start merging are identified and the hydrodynamic conditions in the vicinity of the merging points are examined. Bore merging takes place in the inner surf zone for all...