The influence of incident waves on runup: A comparison between a phase-averaged and a phase-resolving XBeach model

Wave runup is generated by energy which remains after wave breaking and travels farther to the coast in the form of a bore. It can be seen as a thin wedge of water running up the beach face (Brocchini and Baldock, 2008). Under storm conditions runup is responsible for beach and dune erosion and accurate runup predictions are therefore required ...

Process-based modelling of hydro- and morphodynamics around the Anmok submerged breakwater

The use of the detached offshore submerged breakwater (SBW) for coastal protection has an increasing popularity due to its low aesthetic impact on the natural environment. Submerged breakwaters however have only rarely been adopted and therefore its efficacy remains largely unknown (Ranasinghe et al. 2010). Shoreline erosion has been reported in...

The Egmond Model - Calibration, validation and evaluation of Delft3D-MOR with field measurements

Coastal management and engineering rely increasingly on predictions made by computational numerical models of hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes. However due to the lack of real data from coastal field measurements the models used, are rarely tested. With the COAST3D measuring campaign at a site near the town of Egmond a data set is...