Dynamics of resonant low-frequency waves over a schematized fringing coral reef

Low-lying islands are highly vulnerable to wave-induced flooding, with low-frequency waves (frequency <0.04Hz) being one of the main drivers. The impact of these inundations can increase due to wave resonance over coral reefs, which has been observed in the range of low-frequency waves. This study aims to understand the reef resonance...

Cross-shore morphodynamics of intertidal bars: A conceptual model, empirical evidence and numerical modelling

The beach recovery process determines the resilience of a sandy coast and is an important aspect of the coastal safety. Sediment stored underwater due to storms is transported onshore by the migration of subtidal and intertidal bars under mild wave conditions. The intertidal zone is an im-portant interface, connecting the marine and aeolian zone...

Modelling the changes in waveform in combined wave-current flow

Combined wave-current flow is defined as flow in which waves and currents are present together. One of its occurrences in nature is at a tidal inlet system, where incoming waves meet either a current in the same (following) or opposite (opposing) direction. This type of flow is different when compared to wave- or current-only flows. As a result,...

Marine and aeolian sediment transport at the Hondsbossche Dunes: Analysing and modelling the contribution of marine processes to beach and dune evolution

The Hondsbossche Dunes is a seven-kilometre-long dune, beach and shoreface nourishment that serves as a primary flood defence since 2015. In addition to its protective function, the Hondsbossche Dunes stimulate ecological habitat development in the coastal area, in line with Ecoshape's 'Building with Nature'-approach. Its morphologic development...

Multi-timescale shoreline change modelling

Shoreline change is affected by a multitude of complex processes operating at various spatiotemporal scales. Comprehensive multi-year simulations of shoreline changes and forecasts are feasible with process-based models. However, these detailed and computationally expensive numerical simulations do not always lead to increased predictive skill...

Characterization of incoming tsunamis for the design of coastal structures: A numerical study using the SWASH model

The Tohoku Tsunami of 2011 in Japan flooded a large part of the coastal area of Japan. The tsunami was caused by an earthquake with a magnitude of 9.0 just of the coast of Tohoku. The inundation height of the tsunami exceeded the design height of the tsunami barriers. This event led to thousands of fatalities. <br/>The aim of this study is to...

Understanding the influence of beach morphology on the alongshore variance in wave run-up on an intermediate reflective beach, considering bars and cusps

The topic which is considered in this thesis is: understanding the influence of beach morphology on the alongshore variance in wave run-up on an intermediate reflective beach, considering bars and cusps. The focus of this thesis is laid inside the swash zone, in which the water motion is present of waves that run up and run down on a beach....