Long waves in the North Sea: Distribution, generation and measurement methods

This report presents the results of a research concerning long waves in the North Sea. ‘Long waves’ in this research is a collective name for various types of waves that are longer than the well-known sea-swell waves, here referred to as ‘short waves’. Wave types that are referred to as long waves are infragravity waves, meteo-tsunami’s, seiches...

A Deterministic Method To Detect Wave Directions From Surface Elevations: Accuracy And Sensitivity Analysis For The SWDD Method By Using Synthetic Wave Signals And The Mild-Slope Wave Model WIHA

This research describes a new method called SWDD (Klopman, Witteveen+Bos, 2018b), which can obtain information on wave propagation directions from the surface elevations at a set of positions. The primary intention of the method is to separate multiple incoming wave components, i.e. wave heights, phases and directions. The goal is to obtain the...

Comparing one and two-dimensional hydraulic modelling of flow on varying spatial scales: Identifying the physical processes that are of influence to the modelling choice of a stream system

In the past years, climate change has caused an increasing number of extreme weather events. In the Netherlands this is, for instance, reflected by the growing amount of extreme rainfall events. This creates big issues for water management authorities like water boards. Water boards are often responsible for local streams, that cannot handle the...

Undular bore development over coral reefs: An experimental study

A series of laboratory experiments were designed for a schematized 1/20 fringing reef. Both regular and bichromatic wave experiments were carried out. The focus lies on the regular waves experiments. Six regular wave experiments were carried out. During the first two experiemnts, cnoidal waves were generated with typical swell scales, while the...

Optimizing Shoreface Nourishment Design Using The Concept Of Equilibrium Beach Profiles: A Case Study In Nags Head

Introduction and Problem Description: The autonomous nearshore morphodynamics along the Nags Head shoreline are characterized by consistent erosional behavior. The use of shoreface nourishments to counteract this erosion along shorelines has received considerable attention in the past, having the advantage of reduced cost compared to beach...

Computationally Efficient Modelling of Compound Flooding due to Tropical Cyclones with the Explicit Inclusion of Wave-Driven Processes: Research into the required processes and the implementation within the SFINCS model

Tropical cyclones (TCs) have tremendous impact on coastal communities in terms of damage due to flooding and high wind velocities, as shown by the recent hurricane season of 2017. Coastal flooding due to TCs can be contributed to different types of forcing (e.g. high offshore water levels, rainfall, etc.), or multiple at the same time (i.e....

Tropical Cyclone Statistical Wind Estimation: In Regions with Rare Cyclone Occurrence

Tropical Cyclones (TCs) are in many regions responsible for severe damages and a great number of casualties, resulting from the severe wind speeds, rainfall, wave heights and storm surges. The recent hurricanes Harvey and Irma are examples of the great devastation that can be caused by a single event, and of the insufficient level of...

Improving XBeach non-hydrostatic model predictions of the swash morphodynamics of intermediate-reflective beaches

A very common observation is the episodic erosion of beaches during storms and the slow recovery (accretion) afterwards (Yates et al. 2009). Morphodynamic models parameterize physical processes in order to relate the fluid motions (hydrodynamics) to the bed level changes (morphodynamics) over a wide range of spatial and temporal scales. Despite...

Assessing the impact of climate change on longshore sediment transport along the central Dutch coast using statistical downscaling

A low-lying country as The Netherland is prone to coastal flooding, and its risk may be enhanced by global-warming induced climate change. Sea level rise has been historically considered as the key factor in coastal retreat, but waves also play an important erosive role along the coast, which can also be affected by the changing climate. During...