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ZHANG, XINYI (author)
Infragravity (IG) waves (0.005-0.04 Hz) are surface waves that can dominate the nearshore hydrodynamics and can impact various coastal processes (e.g., run-up, overwash). A proper offshore description of incident IG waves is required for storm impact models, which generally assume a local equilibrium between sea-swell (SS) waves (0.04-0.33 Hz)...
master thesis 2022
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Hoogervorst, Chris (author)
This thesis analyses the importance and application of considering multiple coexisting wave trains in sediment transport predictions.<br/><br/>The wave trains at offshore and nearshore locations are analyzed by wave spectral partitions (Portilla at el., 2009). The temporal variability of consistently occurring wave trains can be analyzed through...
master thesis 2022
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Bellinga, Willem Jelle (author)
Mangrove is a coastal vegetation type primarily located in the tropical regions between 5 North and 5 South. This coastal vegetation is capable of reducing the force of incoming waves. This is a result of the obstruction created by the roots, stems and canopies against waves to propagate through. Because of this capability, mangrove vegetation...
master thesis 2022
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ZHANG, XINYI (author)
Infragravity (IG) waves are long waves whose frequency ranges between 0.005 Hz to 0.04 Hz. The directional properties of IG waves are essential in various engineering fields, but few spectra reconstruction methods have been tested to be robust for the last forty years. In this study, artificial wave signals were created to check the accuracy and...
student report 2022
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van Noort, Rieneke (author)
Coral reefs are vital to the prosperity of the world and the local communities by providing food and coastal protection. Coral reefs are home to 25% of marine life and have therefore gained the nickname ’rainforest of the sea’. However, the reefs are being damaged by climate change and human intervention, resulting in an alarming rate of...
master thesis 2021
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Fa, Chen (author)
Recent analysis on measurements in the North Sea has shown a large amount of wave energy ranging in infragravity bands in the North Sea during storm events. To better understand the generation and propagation of free infragravity waves, the SWAN model is used to inspect the infragravity wave pattern, the infragravity wave origins, and the...
master thesis 2021
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Bertoncelj, Vesna (author)
Many coral reef islands are low-lying, which in combination with population growth, sea level rise and possibly more frequent extreme weather events is likely to result in increased coastal risk (e.g. Storlazzi et al., 2015). On smaller scales of O(10 km) wave-driven coastal inundation can be accurately predicted with advanced models such as...
master thesis 2021
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Hoogendoorn, Hugo (author)
Sandy beaches can be found all over the world and are on the interface between the sea and the land. Important functions of beaches are the protection of the inland to the forces of the sea and providing local opportunities in recreation. The impact of storm events on the beach is therefore an important topic of research especially with future...
master thesis 2021
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van Wiechen, P.P.J. (author)
Atolls and coral islands in and around the Pacific and Atlantic Ocean largely rely on coral reefs for their coastal protection. On these reefs a large roughness is created by different coral species. The dissipative character of these species reduces the incident wave height, thereby reducing the amount of run-up on the coast. In our current...
master thesis 2020
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Burgers, F. (author)
The resiliency of coral reef islands to changing environments associated with climate change is controlled by the delicate balance between the import and export of sediment. The majority of the sediment is derived from coral reefs for which the stability of these islands is directly related to reef health. Understanding the sediment signature...
student report 2020
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van Dam, Tim (author)
The present thesis describes the development of a hybrid behavioural / process-based and wave-averaged model (XBeach Surfbeat) that successfully predicts the recovery of the subaerial beach at Narrabeen Beach, Australia, following a severe storm erosion in April 2015. Two model innovations were developed. Firstly, a behavioural model was...
master thesis 2019
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Rey, Annouk (author)
Many tropical coastlines are fronted by coral reefs and are increasingly exposed to wave attack and wave-driven marine flooding. This problem demands immediate attention as safe habitability of and social and economic activity in reef-lined coastal regions are under serious threat, while these regions are known to have some of the world’s...
master thesis 2019
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Roelvink, Floortje (author)
Coral reefs are degrading at an alarming rate, affecting not only the precarious coral ecosystem but also human habitat. The combination of coral degradation, sea level rise and its exacerbated effect in the tropics, and the possible storm intensification increases the flood vulnerability of low-lying tropical islands. To protect reef fronted...
master thesis 2019
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Feys, Charles (author)
A specific type of wave is identified as an infragravity wave (IG wave). These waves with very long wave periods, even up to minutes, are possibly dangerous for flood events, increased storm surge and/or failure of coastal defences. Current guidelines for dike safety are often determined for gravity wave dominated systems, so identifying IG...
master thesis 2018
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van de Ven, Maartje (author)
This study investigates nonlinear wave shape and the near-bed velocity influenced in the vicinity of a tidal inlet for the SEdiment supply At the WAdden Sea ebb-tidal Delta project. Wave nonlinearities occur when waves encounter a flow. An opposing flow leads to waves with higher peaks and reduced wave length. During a following flow, the waves...
master thesis 2018
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Klaver, Sebastiaan (author)
Many small island developing states (SIDS) are among the most vulnerable to climate change (e.g. sea level rise) and seasonal to inter-annual climate variability, and subsequently experience flooding due to swell waves and wind waves, coastal erosion and salinisation of freshwater lenses. To counteract this, reef flat mining for sand and...
master thesis 2018
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Hewageegana, Hithaishi (author)
Coastal defense mechanisms are an integral part in the safety of infrastructure and communities residing on coastlines around the globe. In long temporal and spatial scales, traditional “hard structures” for coastal defense can become infeasible. Incorporation of soft engineering methods for coastal defense can then be a viable solution....
master thesis 2017
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Leal Campos Fonseca da Silva, Renan (author)
Spurs-and-grooves (SAG) are a common and impressive characteristic of shallow fore reef areas worldwide. Although the existence and geometrical properties of SAG are well-documented ever since the 50’s, the literature concerning specifically the hydrodynamics around them is sparse. This study provides a characterization of the 3D flow patterns...
master thesis 2017
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Gensen, M.R.A. (author)
Wave overtopping in harbour areas is a fairly untreated topic in the context of flood risk analyses. Pragmatic approaches were undertaken to evaluate the possible influence of wave overtopping on the frequency of flooding. However no consensus was reached on how wave overtopping in a harbour area could be quantified. Therefore it is also...
master thesis 2017
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van den Ende, I.C. (author)
This study investigates wave driven onshore sandbar migration. Observations show that sandbars move onshore during mild wave conditions. Literature describes different potential sediment mechanisms that cause this onshore migration, but the dominant cause is still under debate. The goal of the present study is to determine the dominant sediment...
master thesis 2017
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