Wave Physics in a Tidal Inlet - Part I: On the time scales of wave processes. Part II: Depth-induced breaking: a comparison on the performance of three models

Part I: On the time scales of wave processes. To systematically improve the SWAN model a study on the wave physics in a tidal inlet was carried out. The third-generation SWAN model was used to compute the wave processes in a tidal inlet for storm conditions. The computed wave processes are propagation (shoaling, refraction and frequency shifting...