Long waves in the North Sea: Distribution, generation and measurement methods

This report presents the results of a research concerning long waves in the North Sea. ‘Long waves’ in this research is a collective name for various types of waves that are longer than the well-known sea-swell waves, here referred to as ‘short waves’. Wave types that are referred to as long waves are infragravity waves, meteo-tsunami’s, seiches...

The influence of a tidal inlet system on a nearby mega-feeder nourishment

All over the world coastal communities are at risk due to sea-level rise and intensifying weather conditions. Many sandy beaches are eroding as a result of human-induced factors. Currently, the preferred coastal protection measure in the United States are beach nourishments. In Europe, there also is a general shift from hard to soft coastal...

Calibration of optical backscatter sensor for measurements of sediment transport through the Marsdiep inlet

In highly dynamic and vulnerable tidal systems such as the Wadden Sea, the importance of understanding natural processes and how they are hampered by anthropogenic pressure is highly demanding. Within these processes the sediment transport is one of the most challenging movements to be monitored. With this in mind, suspended particulate matter ...

Pumping coral-spawn slicks for large scale reef rehabilitation

Coral reefs are degrading across the entire Great Barrier Reef. Rehabilitation of the Great Barrier Reef is crucial for Australia, both socially and economically because it provides $6 billion in revenue and 63,000 jobs. The Queensland state government issued a challenge within the "Small Business Innovation Research" program to quickly restore...

The applicability of the mega nourishment concept for the purpose of combating erosion in Cua Dai beach

Nourishments are considered to be a popular soft measure against coastal erosion. In the Netherlands, the concept of a localized mega nourishment has been introduced as an innovative approach, aiming to counteract the anticipated enhanced coastal erosion. The positive results of the Sand Engine implementation lead the way for applying the mega...

Centrifuge modelling of liquefaction flow slides

As soil behaviour is stress-dependent, a centrifuge model with tilting sample box was developed to generate liquefaction flow slides at higher confining stresses. The design and experimental set-up were based on the large liquefaction tank (de Jager et al., 2017). Fluidisation was used as sample preparation technique to produce a saturated,...

Evaluating the applicability of 2DH models for the prediction of mega nourishments: A case study of the Hondsbossche Dunes

In 2003 certain areas of the Dutch coast were found not to meet contemporary safety standards, as a result of erosion that occurred over the last century. One of these 'weak links' stretches from Camperduin to Petten and is known as the Hondsebossche Pettemer Zeewering; a former 'hard' sea dyke with a stone revetment. To fortify this 12...

The Influence of Diffraction on Artificial Pocket Beaches: a Morphological Assessment with XBeach

Information about the hydrodynamic, sediment transport and morphodynamics is limited in pocket beaches (Dehouck et al., 2009). However, a good understanding is necessary for effective management of coastal areas (Scholar et al., 1998). A small artificial pocket beach has relatively large shadow zones, therefore, diffraction might be an important...

Improving XBeach non-hydrostatic model predictions of the swash morphodynamics of intermediate-reflective beaches

A very common observation is the episodic erosion of beaches during storms and the slow recovery (accretion) afterwards (Yates et al. 2009). Morphodynamic models parameterize physical processes in order to relate the fluid motions (hydrodynamics) to the bed level changes (morphodynamics) over a wide range of spatial and temporal scales. Despite...