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Smit, P.B. (author), Janssen, T.T. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author)
Refractive focusing of swell waves can result in fast-scale variations in the wave statistics because of wave interference, which cannot be resolved by stochastic wave models based on the radiative transport equation. Quasi-coherent statistical theory does account for such statistical interferences and the associated wave inhomogeneities, but...
journal article 2015
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De Bakker, A.T.M. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Ruessink, B.G. (author)
A high-resolution dataset of three irregular wave conditions collected on a gently sloping laboratory beach is analyzed to study nonlinear energy transfers involving infragravity frequencies. This study uses bispectral analysis to identify the dominant, nonlinear interactions and estimate energy transfers to investigate energy flows within the...
journal article 2015
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Salmon, J.E. (author), Holthuijsen, L.H. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Van Vledder, G.P. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)
This paper presents the application of new source terms in SWAN for the dominant water wave physics in the coastal zone: depth-induced breaking and triad wave-wave interactions. We present results demonstrating increased modelling skill in the prediction of bulk wave parameters e.g. significant wave height and of the spectral shape compared to...
conference paper 2014
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Smit, P.B. (author)
Predicting the mean wave statistics in the nearshore, for instance the significant wave height, has predominantly been the domain of operational stochastic wave models based on the radiative transport (or energy balance) equation. Although reasonably successful in the nearshore, these models were originally developed for oceanic scales, and...
doctoral thesis 2014
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Zijlema, M. (author), Van Vledder, G.P. (author), Holthuijsen, L.H. (author), Salmon, J.E. (author), Smit, P.B. (author)
The SWAN model is a third-generation spectral wave prediction model developed by Delft University of Technology. Since its initial release in 1998 this model has become a widely used and reliable tool for offshore and near shore wave predictions. Its main field of application is the coastal zone where, by virtue of its implicit numerical scheme,...
conference paper 2013
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Smit, P.B. (author), Janssen, T.T. (author)
The interaction of ocean waves with variable currents and topography in coastal areas can result in inhomogeneous statistics because of coherent interferences, which affect wave-driven circulation and transport processes. Stochastic wave models, invariably based on some form of the radiative transfer equation (or action balance), do not account...
journal article 2013
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)
This paper presents numerical modelling of the nearshore transformation of infragravity waves induced by bichromatic wave groups over a horizontal and a sloping bottom. The non-hydrostatic model SWASH is assessed by comparing model predictions with analytical solutions over a horizontal bottom and with detailed laboratory observations for a...
conference paper 2012
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Smit, P.B. (author), Janssen, T.T. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author)
Refraction of narrow-band surface waves in coastal areas can result in wave-focal zones where due to interference, wave statistics vary rapidly and on similar length scales as those of individual waves. However such interference patterns, or wave coherence, are not accounted for in conventional stochastic wave models that are based on the energy...
conference paper 2012
document
Smit, P.B. (author), Janssen, T.T. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author)
Refraction of narrow-band surface waves in coastal areas can result in wave-focal zones where due to interference, wave statistics vary rapidly and on similar length scales as those of individual waves. However such interference patterns, or wave coherence, are not accounted for in conventional stochastic wave models that are based on the energy...
conference paper 2012
document
Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)
This paper presents numerical modelling of the nearshore transformation of infragravity waves induced by bichromatic wave groups over a horizontal and a sloping bottom. The non-hydrostatic model SWASH is assessed by comparing model predictions with analytical solutions over a horizontal bottom and with detailed laboratory observations for a...
conference paper 2012
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Zijlema, M. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Stelling, G.S. (author)
conference paper 2011
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Smit, P.B. (author), Janssen, T.T. (author)
Wave fields traveling through a varying medium (e.g. topography, currents), can develop well-defined focal zones and caustics, where the wave field is highly coherent and wave statistics vary rapidly. However, the presence and evolution of such coherent structures in the wave field are not resolved in a quasi-homogeneous description of the wave...
conference paper 2011
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Baart, F. (author), Bakker, M.A.J. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author), Den Heijer, C. (author), Van Heteren, S. (author), Smit, M.W.J. (author), Van Koningsveld, M. (author), Pool, A. (author)
For the design of cost-effective coastal defence a precise estimate is needed of the 1/10 000 per year storm surge. A more precise estimate requires more observations. Therefore, the three greatest storm surges that hit the northern part of the Holland Coast in the 18th century are reconstructed. The reconstructions are based on paintings,...
journal article 2011
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Smit, M. (author), Reniers, A. (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author)
Nearshore sandbars appear with various patterns which may change over time. From observations, these changes seem to be related to changes in hydrodynamic conditions, although observed length scales could not be related directly to occurring wave conditions. The current work investigated the role of both the concurrent and previous hydrodynamics...
conference paper 2010
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Smit, M.W.J. (author)
The aim of this study is to understand whether hydrodynamic processes or geometrical characteristics play a dominant role in the response of the nearshore sandbar system to hydrodynamic conditions. To that end a depth-averaged (2DH) process-based model has been used to compute the morphological evolution of nearshore sandbars. The morphological...
doctoral thesis 2010
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Ten Ham, D. (author), Henrotte, J. (author), Kraaijeveld, R. (author), Milosevic, M. (author), Smit, P. (author)
The ongoing erosion of the Negril Beach has become worse the past decade. In most places along the coast line, the beach will be gone in approximately 10 years. This will result in a major decrease of incomes that are made by the local tourist sector. To prevent the erosion this study has been performed to find a feasible and affordable solution...
student report 2006
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Smit, S.B. (author)
New developments in the design of off-shore harbours, involving land reclamation and the use of large vessels (draughts larger than 10 meter) have made it necessary for breakwaters to be constructed in deeper water. In deep water, vertical caisson breakwaters have been found to provide better economical solutions than rubble mound breakwaters,...
master thesis 1999
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Visser, P.J. (author), Smit, M.J. (author), Snip, D.W. (author)
Beschrijving van de meetopstelling en de meetresultaten van het zwin 1994 experiment alsmede de inhoud van het Zwin 1994 archief.
report 1996
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Bakker, W.T. (author), Van de Graaff, J. (author), Kraak, A.W. (author), Smit, M.J. (author), Snip, D.W. (author), Steetzel, H.J. (author), Visser, P.J. (author)
Op 6 en 7 oktober 1994 hebben twee grootschalige damdoorbraakexperimenten plaatsgevonden in Het Zwin in Zee uwsch-Vlaanderen. Vooral het eerste experiment op 6 oktober heeft veel publicitaire aandacht getrokkcn. Op het beslissende ogenblik, het begin van de proef rondom het tijdstip van hoogwater, verliep deze proef niet volgens verwachting. Het...
report 1996
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Smit, M.J. (author), Snip, D.W. (author)
DEEL 1: THEORETISCH VOORONDERZOEK In oktober 1994 zal in het natuurgebied het Zwin een experiment worden uitgevoerd, waarin de stroomgatontwikkeling in een dijk zal worden onderzocht. Doel van het project is een verificatie van de geometrie van het stroomgat (de bres) tijdens de eerste fasen van bresgroei zo dicht mogelijk bij schaal één- op-één...
master thesis 1995
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